Prohect Log: Literally my first ever Miniatures

[hd3]

7 hours ago, Rusted Boltgun said:

What magnification is your current ring? I think mine is 3x and I find that I have to have the mini farther away than I expect to get a really good close up image. I can't use the reading specs as I'm already wearing specs!

I use the Citadel mini holder and find it works well but I have to be careful when using it and my magnifier, getting a brush in there too.  Not a great deal of room.

I have also recently purchased some Rosemary and Co brushes. Have only used the size 0 so far though, really pleased with it. Handles are a bit thin but a nice long tip. I made a selection after reading the Fauxhammer article on the web, other sources of info are available for balance, I'm sure.

I'm pretty new to this too so I'm by no means an Oracle!

Does the citadel mini holder fit larger models or just 32mm?

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/gp/aw/d/B0874755M3?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

This my lamp. It says its 8x but im not sure I believe it. Of course, im possibly holding it wrong.

 

Yeah, I read thevfauxhammer too. They said series 33 rosemary co wete best but honestly the naming conventions on that site are so odd, I wasn't sure which was the layer, which was fine detail or base, etc.

 

[Rusted Boltgun]

From magnifying lens site...

'2x' enlarges it to twice its size, '6x' enlarges to six times the subject size. Magnification strength or 'power' is determined by the amount of curvature of the lens, which in turn governs the size and focal length - the distance at which the magnifier has to be held away from the subject matter for it to be effective.

I would try moving the mini away from the lens to see if the image improves. 

The Citadel Painting Handle is fine for a 32mm base - the GW site says it can take up to 40mm.

Rosemary & Co use the traditional brush sizing naming convention, 1, 0, 000, etc - they are confusing when move into fractions!

I haven't yet tried my R&Co size 2 which is said to be good for layering. The size 0 has a nice point but I think it might be too large for Marine helmet lenses. I'll continue to use my Citadel base brush for undercoating.

Hopefully someone with more experience will be able to add some guidance. 

Looking forward to seeing more of your minis - especially the Necrons!

EDIT: based on the Amazon link and your previous shot of a Tamiya rattle can, are you based in Japan? Are Tamiya brushes an affordable alternative to Citadel for you?

Edited September 8, 2022 by Rusted Boltgun

[Pearson73]

Regarding brushes, I tend to favour cheapo ones from the local art shop. They last a fair while and do the job, particularly when you're just starting out! I use a 0 for a lot of details/basing smaller parts, and a 3/0 for fine stuff. 

[hd3]

Base has been done with mrcganicus grey, rocks with cirax white and a wash of agrax shade, thrn dry brushedvwith corax white. I still used too nuch paint but in my defebse, itsvreally gardvto see white paint onn the paper towel

 

I also drilled out the gun barrel for the bolter with a pin vice and painted the hole with black legion contrast.  I didn't do the gauss flayer because Ivwasn't sure if they are meant to have narrels like traditional projectile weapons? I mean, its a ray gun. Can anyone clarify?

[Grotsmasha]

On 9/8/2022 at 2:47 PM, hd3 said:

Does the citadel mini holder fit larger models or just 32mm?

There is two sizes, one that covers 25-40mm, then the big one for 50mm+

2 hours ago, hd3 said:

Base has been done with mrcganicus grey, rocks with cirax white and a wash of agrax shade, thrn dry brushedvwith corax white. I still used too nuch paint but in my defebse, itsvreally gardvto see white paint onn the paper towel

Yeah there's a bit of a  splodge on the Space Marine's base, but over all both those bases look good, and once on the table, the SM base won't even be noticable.

2 hours ago, hd3 said:

I didn't do the gauss flayer because Ivwasn't sure if they are meant to have narrels like traditional projectile weapons? I mean, its a ray gun. Can anyone clarify?

Ray gun, don't drill

[hd3]

[hd3]

On 9/8/2022 at 3:53 PM, Rusted Boltgun said:

From magnifying lens site...

'2x' enlarges it to twice its size, '6x' enlarges to six times the subject size. Magnification strength or 'power' is determined by the amount of curvature of the lens, which in turn governs the size and focal length - the distance at which the magnifier has to be held away from the subject matter for it to be effective.

I would try moving the mini away from the lens to see if the image improves. 

The Citadel Painting Handle is fine for a 32mm base - the GW site says it can take up to 40mm.

Rosemary & Co use the traditional brush sizing naming convention, 1, 0, 000, etc - they are confusing when move into fractions!

I haven't yet tried my R&Co size 2 which is said to be good for layering. The size 0 has a nice point but I think it might be too large for Marine helmet lenses. I'll continue to use my Citadel base brush for undercoating.

Hopefully someone with more experience will be able to add some guidance. 

Looking forward to seeing more of your minis - especially the Necrons!

EDIT: based on the Amazon link and your previous shot of a Tamiya rattle can, are you based in Japan? Are Tamiya brushes an affordable alternative to Citadel for you?

Yeah, I live in tochigi. Its why I have akk the grammaticcal and spelling errors. Not my first language but all the japanese 40k communities are pretty limited. 

I don't mind tamiya for undercoats ir or base and drybrushing. Its more thr fine detail and highlighting I want a high quality brush with good control.

 

[Urauloth]

Necron looks really nice for a first mini, I'd say you're off to a great start.

The Citadel miniature holder does hold 40mm bases as well, but it doesn't hold them as comfortably as it holds 32mms. If you get one with a tough spring, it can be a bit of a hassle getting a 40mm in and out, and if you're unlucky it can even dent the rims. I only use mine for 32mm bases, personally.

[Majkhel]

For holder options other than GW holder, check:
- Wine corks + pins or blu-tac (or equivalent like tack-it, patafix, sticky-tack, etc..) 
- anything really that fits your hand comfortably with blu-tac  Small jars, round plastic containers
- redgrass holders
- PK Pro holder

........

[Grotsmasha]

...or hit up a buddy with a 3D printer

[hd3]

Necron warrior after topcoat

[Grotsmasha]

That has come up very tidy indeed

[Khulu]

Looks great!

[hd3]

My decals finally came for the Ultramarine. I used a gloss varnish base then micro sol and micro set to smooth them out

[hd3]

[Grotsmasha]

I like the new base

[hd3]

35 minutes ago, Grotsmasha said:

I like the new base

Thanks! I largely gave up on highlighting though. I have no odea how to pick colours or paint them! So that's my next skill project

[Pearson73]

Aye, the new base looks good!

 

Highlighting is tricky, but luckily there are a few ways to go about it and a tonne of online resources!

[hd3]

On 10/15/2022 at 5:25 PM, Pearson73 said:

Aye, the new base looks good!

 

Highlighting is tricky, but luckily there are a few ways to go about it and a tonne of online resources!

any recommendations?

[Valkia the Bloody]

17 minutes ago, hd3 said:

any recommendations?

 

If you are just starting out, I would maybe first start with the painting tutorials provided by Games Workshop themselves (they are on Youtube).

And then just have a look at the other tutorials, pick someone you like the miniatures of (some of these guys have their own websites and offer commissions and have whole galleries where they show off their work) and see how they did it.

There are even some decent speed painting tutorials.

Or do you have a local Warhammer store? At least most stores I have been to are very willing to show you some tricks and will even provide you with a free miniature to let you practice. This is how I learned to paint my first miniatures 25 years ago- back then, I barely knew which end of the brush was which.

 

I admit I am just too clumsy for all this fancy edge highlighting stuff. And I have pretty much zero patience.

I also have so far not used any of the new Contrast paints, since I still have my accumulated paint pot collection of the past 25 years.

How do I do highlighting?

I prime my models with chaos black and then lightly drybrush them with grey. This will give a first subtle highlight underneath.

Then I put the base colours on and drybrush over them again, with a lighter colour. If your model is supposed to look dirty (and mine usually do), then I use a lighter grey or brown.

And then I use inks and washes and apply these liberally over the whole miniature.

Any mistakes I make, if they are not too bad and obvious, are actually not a bug, but a feature.

This is a very messy way of painting. I am very much into the grim dark gritty style of painting, which fits the background of my armies and warbands very well. I am also a big fan of John Blanche and the Blanchitsu style (google these words to see some examples, or maybe you have seen examples in White Dwarf already).

If you are interested, have a look at my WIP threads in this very sub-forum. I am not a great painter by any means (as I said, I miss both dexterity and patience) but at least I enjoy what I do and it feels great to put some decently painted figures on the table- and I do not aspire to win any awards.

 

However. This way of painting is not for everyone, and if you are after some clean parade ready Ultramarines, this will NOT get you there.

For this, it really means the painstakingly accurate and time consuming method of carefully edge-highlighting every single edge. Or, even more extreme, wet blending and similar.

It takes a lot of patience.

From looking at your pictures, you pay a lot of attention to detail, you paint very accurately and you seem to have good brush control. I bet, with a bit more practice, you will be able to pull it off. Just look at some Youtube videos of edge highlighting- and see if that is something you can see yourself doing.

 

It is a matter of personal taste. Do you want to have a sparkly clean proud shining army, or are your soldiers veterans of many battles, covered in dirt, rust and gore?

Both are equally valid.

No wonder Blanchitsu style has so many fans- if well done, it really looks like I imagine the universe of 40k to be- dark, grimy and without hope.

 

And remember- if you paint cleanly (as you do) you can just finish them up as you do and you can always come back to them at a later date, when you feel more confident.

Sorry for the long post.

I remember how it was starting out and how often I felt discouraged. In my club back then, there was also a rule that one had to paint the figures if you wanted to play (university games club), and seeing all the awesome models of all the veterans was intimidating.

Just don't feel discouraged. You are doing well. And you will get better. That I can promise.