Kindred of Kragor-5

[sibomots]

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The Kin of Kragor-5 (in the Kragor System)...

My initial kit-plan (not assembled yet).   I'm probably going to shift some to hold two weapons. Most of the kit plan ended up with two-handed weapon situation.  I'll go back and revise the kit to mix more two weapon per Kin.

Kit lists actual Sprue Number for parts, for reference.  The Hearthkyn Warriors are grouped in pairs, matching the order and pair definition in the Pamphlet.  The Kin are in order per the Pamphlet, so the first two are the first two Hearthkyn Warriors, and the next two (3,4) are the next and so on till the last pair.

Key:

• RA = Right Arm, RH = Right Hand (weapon in RH),  RW = Right Hand Weapon Name
• LA = Left Arm, LH = Left Hand (weapon in LH), LW = Left Hand Weapon Name
• N/A means usually that the weapon is part of the arm (arm and weapon are one part)

 

No    Name                 RA   RH   RW                         LA   LH   LW
1     Hearthkyn Warrior    C117 C119 Ion Blaster                C122 N/A  Axe
2     Hearthkyn Warrior    C114 N/A  Etacarn Plasma Pistol      C109 N/A  Plasma Sword
3     Hearthkyn Warrior    C97  C98  Autoch-Pattern Bolter      C96  fist fist
4     Hearthkyn Warrior    C91  C93  Autoch-Pattern Bolter      C92  N/A  N/A
5     Hearthkyn Warrior    C101 N/A  Ion Blaster                C84  fist fist
6     Hearthkyn Warrior    C79  N/A  Ion Blaster                C80  N/A  N/A
7     Hearthkyn Warrior    C61  N/A  Autoch-Pattern Bolter      C62  N/A  N/A
8     Hearthkyn Warrior    C61  N/A  Autoch-Pattern Bolter      C62  N/A  N/A
9     Hearthkyn Warrior    C13  C17  Magna Rail                 C14  N/A  N/A
10    Hearthkyn Warrior    C13  C13  Autoch-Pattern Bolter      C14  N/A  N/A
11    Hearthkyn Warrior    C23  C27  HYLas Auto Rifle           C24  N/A  N/A
12    Hearthkyn Warrior    C23  C27  HYLas Auto Rifle           C24  N/A  N/A
13    Hearthkyn Warrior    C33  C37  Etacarn Plasma Beamer      C34  N/A  N/A
14    Hearthkyn Warrior    C33  C36  Ion Blaster                C34  N/A  N/A
15    Hearthkyn Warrior    C42  C46  L7 Missile Launcher        C43  N/A  N/A
16    Hearthkyn Warrior    C42  C44  Autoch-Pattern Bolter      C43  N/A  N/A
17    Hearthkyn Warrior    C53  C56  Ion Blaster                C54  N/A  N/A
18    Hearthkyn Warrior    C53  C55  Autoch-Pattern Bolter      C54  N/A  N/A
19    Hearthkyn Warrior    C70  C72  Autoch-Pattern Bolter      C71  N/A  N/A
20    Hearthkyn Warrior    C70  C73  Ion Blaster                C71  N/A  N/A

 

[Pacific81]

Is this post meant to be on a punch card and understood only by Kin

[sibomots]

The Kinfolk of Kragor-5 usually set comms to base 16 over what Terrans call MIL-1553. I will leave a post-it note on the hood of the Votann access panel. 

Noted.

 

[Trokair]

You have 5 special weapons in there, and the max for 20 bodies is 4.

[Doobles57]

The numbers don't really add up on this. Presumably you're building 2 usable squads (rather than building these then adding more models later to bulk out).

You've got 2 Theyns (fine). But then 5 special weapons (can only have 2 per 10 men and they need to be different), and 8 bolters and 5 blasters (the squads need to all have the same choice).

So while you can build them in the way you've laid out, you won't have 2 legal squads to use.

[sibomots]

This is precisely the difficulty I have.  Building per rules of the codex.  I will review the codex again.  

Thanks.

 

[INKS]

Interesting that you are mixing some ion blasters in there. 

[Lemondish]

9 hours ago, sibomots said:

This is precisely the difficulty I have.  Building per rules of the codex.  I will review the codex again.  

Thanks.

 

A quick run down for the Warriors themselves in case it helps at all.

So, in short...for a 10 man squad, you have 9 Warriors and 1 Theyn, so think of equipping them by following this order of operations:

1. Select the main infantry weapon for the squad (bolter or blaster)
2. Select up to 2 special weapons you want to equip from the list of 4, with no duplicates
3. Select any special equipment you want to equip, limited to one of each, that can only be issued to a Warrior that has not been issued a special weapon
4. Select a pistol for your Theyn, or stick with the standard issue
5. Select a melee weapon for your Theyn, or stick with the choice made in step 1

If you have a squad of 20, you'll have a unit made up of 19 Warriors and 1 Theyn. Everything stays as above, except point 2 changes to "Select up to 4 special weapons you want to equip, with no more than 2 of each type allowed". 

 

Edited October 6, 2022 by Lemondish

[INKS]

I am going to model for the medic, comms and so on but for the most part I am going to keep squads minimal and with bolters or blasters. Probably bolters because of range.

[sibomots]

I relented and used the BattleScribe application to interpret the Rules for LV.   I downloaded the data file for the League of Votann, added it to the BattleScribe and started to play around with building an army.

When I tried to build a group of Hearthkyn Warriors the heuristics forced me into choosing Autoch-pattern Bolter and Autoch-pattern Bolt Pistol.   Couldn't mix in some models with Ion Blaster.  If I wanted to use Ion Blaster, I have to setup a group with Ion Blaster and Bolt Pistol.

So, the nutshell, if I'm correct is that any of the Hearthkyn Warrior model is made for Battle, it has to have a Autoch-pattern Bolt Pistol.  

For the case of heavier weapons, the same sort of pattern emerged.  Warrior w/ Heavy Weapon needed Autoch-pattern bolt with the heavy weapon.

1. So the question is -- when I make the model that has the Autoch-pattern Bolt Pistol does that mean it literally have to be in the hand or simply represented in the model as a holstered Bolt Pistol?
2. If it's OK to make the model with a two handed weapon (Bolter, or Ion Bolter, or whatever the heavy weapon is) but decorate the model witlh the "holstered" Bolt Pistol?  I don't have the sprue in front of me at the moment, so I'm just assuming that option exists?  
3. Or is the Roster just abstract.   Account for the Bolt Pistol on the Roster, but don't need to actually fashion a Bolt Pistol for the model?

 

[Lemondish]

The Warriors all seem to have pistols molded on each body, so it isn't an extra bit you need to worry about adding. The datasheet says that every Warrior has one, which would be true for all rules purposes whether they had a holster on the model, were wielding it drawn, or neither.

This is true regarding the two-handed weapons as well. You'll notice there are a lot of options on the sprue for building Warriors wielding pistols and knives instead of a 'primary' two-handed weapon. This is where that abstract element comes into play that you described - the model may not show a particular weapon, but there's no way in the rules for it to not have that weapon, so for all rules purposes it has one.

[sibomots]

Yeah.

After trial and error with Battle Scribe the pattern started to make sense.  

As far as Hearthkyn Warriors are concerned, it looks like a choice between going Ion or Bolter for rank and file, up to two heavy weapon carrying Kin per "group" (I think if memory serves, 7 is minimum size of non heavy weapon carrying in that "group").

At any rate, the software helped troubleshoot the make up for the load.  I couldn't grasp the details until I had the "calculator" to try candidate solutions to the "equation".

So I think for variety, one 7-9 model group will go Ion, one group go Bolter, and sprinkle in some heavy weapon among them to round up to 9, then add the Theyn.  

I don't think the army box has any legit Warlords. 

So, this is mostly resolved. Thanks for the feedback. Pushed me in right direction.

Next step is to paste in the errata to codex to keep current. 

 

[Lemondish]

13 hours ago, sibomots said:

I don't think the army box has any legit Warlords. 

I'm not sure what you mean by that. There's great options for trait on both the Kahl and the Champion. Don't forget the High Kahl upgrade or build Uthar. 

[sibomots]

I'm not sure what I meant either.

I'm still troubleshooting the build out.  I have the kitted Kin arranged but I need to re-sort their weapons to get the units all in Bolters or in Ion weapons.  I think I'll do 9 each.

Anyway, it's going along.  Basing has been on my mind too.  I got some supplies ordered and when they arrive I'll divert to make their bases (cork+plastic, dry brushed rock, some wasteland-tufts, and so on -- keeping the base radius visible as recommended)

I got five Kin assembled, 15 to go plus the two heroic Kin from the Army Box.

My pedantic system is to kit each unit, make notes on their sprue part number and then double check the Codex.   The most troubling part has been to choose between their left arm being connected to the weapon or to put a free weapon (axe, etc..) in their left hand.  These models have very little clearance if two-handed weapons are used.

My advice (to myself) is to dry fit really carefully, not all of the left arms will fit so easily if two-handed weapons are used.  I'm hoping there is enough sprue-parts spare to do left-hand free to hold some arbitrary axe/pistol.

[sibomots]

 

The first batch of 10 Kin Warriors are assembled and roughly positioned on their bases. 

 

Left to do:

Prime and paint and pin down to the base.

Base-wise:

Color/texture/moss/weeds/a stray scale rock and boulder here or there.

After these get painted, I have the other 10 Kinfolk to assemble from Army Box.  Plus the two Heroes, plus the vehicles.

 

But, it feels sorta good to have these assembled and choices made.  I'm not going to worry too much about the Codex on this batch, I just wanted to make the models.  The next 10 will be more carefully kitted.   I have a Plan B if things don't work out Codex wise.

 

[sibomots]

Builder Notes on the Hernkyn Pioneers

 

Step 21, parts D5, D6.  These footpegs can go in different ways.  Look for the dry-fit where the grip is facing the rider and the bare side of the grip is facing downward.  Check that Both D5 and D6 are aimed the same way (same amount of grip showing from above).

 

 

Step 21, parts D12, D13.  These are going to produce a noticeable seam between the front faring and each side of the fork (D12, D13).  Expect to gap fill that, later.

 

Step 21, part D15 - the gun barrel.  I bored to 0.050"  It could probably go 0.052" without an issue.  Leaves a wall thickness of 0.022" 

So, be careful.  Pilot hole with a tip of a sharp razer and hand-drill (pen-vise). Don't Dremel this.

The O.D. of the barrel is 0.100"   So a 0.050 bore is about right.  Anymore and it could become an issue if you're off center a few thousandths. I posted about drills recently, but I forgot to include a picture of the way chips should look with a sharp drill and right amount of feed.

 

 

Step 21, parts D16, D18, D17.    Don't fret too much for the burr on D17.  Glue it in, then sand, trim off the bur.  It's a super small bit to hold, let the D16, D17 sandwich hold it for you.   I'd avoid attaching the D16, D18 sandwich (anti-grav?) to the axle (D3/D4) until AFTER painting the underside of the forks.  There's a lot of detail there (hoses for instance) that will be hard to get to.  And, it doesn't appear that delaying the anti-grav to the axle is going to be an issue later. 

 

 

Step 23, parts D52, D51, D50.

 

The assembly of the rider is interesting.  The two body halves D52 and D51 do not have divots in the mold.  No guides.

So you'll have to really dry fit practice that and look for markings to line it up.  You'll see.
But the type of glue would be important.  In hindsight, I should have used PCA and not regular thin glue.  It's because of D50.

D50 snaps into the front of the body and the tension it puts on the model would make regular thin glue stretch apart.

So, if you must use thin glue on D52, D51 then be sure to use PCA on D50 so the thing is locked down on contact.

Otherwise, if D50 is glued with regular thin glue it'll just spring away from the body.  Dry fit first and you'll see.

 

After putting D50, D52, D51 together and then contemplating the handbars (D26, D55) I am wondering if I should paint the parts first then assemble.  If I assemble before painting I'll never get in there to paint/detail the front of the rider's torso.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[sibomots]

Army Box finally assembled.

 

Class photo. 

 

 

[Guest Triszin]

rad.

bases are made from what?

[sibomots]

Bases:

 

I want to establish the climate of Kragor-5 (fictional planet in the Kragor system, known to be a refuge for Kyn of the system.   Various nebulae shroud the system.    Pioneers and trade with other systems is infrequent.   The Votann Logiks have spit out curious warnings of enemies that are exploring the reaches of the nebulae.  The Kyn Warriors are more than ready!

 

So, the climate is mild.  Even temperate.   That's the idea I started with.   The color scheme of the Kyn will probably be partitioned by squad.

 

(under each foot is a tiny bit of white-TAC to hold the model on the base until I know that's the right base and right posture for the base. they are not pinned down yet).

 

 

So, I imagined the bases from that goal and went to work:

• Started with third party 32mm bases (Amazon, bag of 100 for $8)
• 1/4" cork, torn into random shards, I wanted other cork, but could not source it.
• Put two "cough drop" sizes lumps down (3 o'clock and 9-12 o'clock).
• Put one more pea sized clump on top of one of them.  Jagged better.
• Used PCA glue to fasten the cork to the base and cork to cork.
• Used Bob Smith PCA accelerator on PCA.
• Coated base plastic, cork with dobs of Gorilla Glue (clear)
• Waited several days for it to cure.  Cures glossy.
• Pop open tub of DryDex (DAP) premixed plaster.  Used Popsicle stick to spread it around and form roughness between cork and on base plastic.  Dented plaster while wet with random jabs to give texture.
• No plastic exposed.
• Primed with brown/tan paint (air brushed)
• Waited about week for all of this to cure/dry hard. (Plaster takes time.  The Gorilla glue layer helps to keep the plaster from crumbling.
• Then dob on liberal amounts of Vallejo Earth Texture (26.218) (a sandy mix of acrylic paint and grit).
• Let dry fully, no heat lamp.

 

I will paint models on pins not on bases.   The model painting (airbrush) would wreak havoc on the bases.

 

When the time comes to base the models, I'll drill holes through base, through plastic of base and slide foot-glued pinned feet through the base and PCA tips of pins on underside of base to secure the model to the base.

 

Next, plans for bases -

• More detailed painting (mud, sand, gravel, skulls,   Once bases are absolutely pristine done (except for tufts of weeds)
• plan to shoot one quick matte finish
• then tufts of wasteland weeds (Army Painter has a good variety), and add a sprig of fine foliage here and there.
• A wee skull (of invaders) from battles long ago before.
• then I'll slip the model onto the base (through holes) and PCA pin under base as mentioned.

 

 

[sibomots]

To make the styrofoam pads, I find scrap packing that has styrofoam.  Cannot cut with saw or knife without the material crumbling (and making a huge mess).

 

How I cut blocks of styrofoam:

 

Get torch (O2 + Propane bottles), Rosebud torch handle.    Handle isn't as important as the Oxygen.  Without the O2, the heat won't be enough on Propane alone.  Need the O2.  If you're not setup with a shop to make fire, then don't do this, it'll be a waste of time. 

 

If I was going another route, I'd just go down to the Home Depot type store and get a length of 1-1/2" wooden closet hanger rod material (wood, not metal), and then saw up rounds 2" long.  TAC (blue or white) blobs on top to hold the base down.  The wood rounds are heavy enough to not need a base to keep from toppling over.

 

Another good material that's easy to machine is Delrin, round stock.  If you have a lathe you can even turn them into the right kind of shape. (See pic)

 

But if you still want to play with fire.... go ahead...

 

Put a used hack-saw blade in jaw of Vise-grip pliers.

 

Set up styrofoam on bench

 

Holding the blade with the Vise-grip, heat the blade red hot:

 

Then like a knife, cut through the 2" thick styrofoam.  Always LOOK where you want the blade TO GO.  Not where it is. Else, the cut will be non-linear.  (Same trick for drawing straight lines -- look where you want the line to go, not where the pencil is).   Makes a bit of fumes but who cares.  Don't do this in the house.   Ideally I'd use a nichrome wire instead of literally fire-to-blade but I don't have a jig setup for that...

 

Cut 2" x n" long pieces this way, then chop them up into 2" x 2" blocks.

 

Next, find some 1/4" press board or 1/4" plywood.  Cut squares on band-saw.  Sand edges.

Hot glue the base of the foam to the square wood (for ballast so it won't topple over -- foam is light!)

 

The hot blade seals the foam, no crumbling.  No debris. Clean and smooth.

 

 

[Guest Triszin]

I don't touch styrofoam with the hobby anymore, unless I plan on covering it in plaster.

 

Too much of a static mess clean up

[MithrilForge]

Looks great , Q-  Will we see paint anytime this year ?... 

 

M. 

[sibomots]

Yes.

Paint will happen.

I need to install a heater in my second work bench area so I can shoot the air brush.

 

Too cold at the moment. I've been busy at work and building non GW metal models.