Stripping vehicles?

[andes]

Are there any best practices for stripping vehicles? I was thinking about drilling a couple of small holes in the hull to allow stripper to drain out, but really couldn't come up with anything beyond that...

[Guest]

Personally if it was me I would get a tub slightly bigger than the vehicle and use ISO99.9

 

I think most of it would leak out anyway bit some drainage might be warranted depending on the vehicle in question.

Edited November 14, 2022 by Brother Captain Arkley

[Karhedron]

I use Biostrip 20. Not the cheapest stuff out there but it sprays on so you don't need to immerse the tank in it. Also it removes paint without damaging the plastic.

[andes]

I've got a big bottle of Super Clean so am set there, guess I just need a small container... maybe I'll grab a tupperware when the wife isn't looking ;-)

[Guest]

Not got any knowledge on Super Clean, I use nitrile gloves and toothbrush + ISO 99.9% (I buy in 5 litre batches on ebay from a really good chemical seller in the UK).

 

I can strip a standard model (plastic) within 10 mins if I am in a rush.

 

While I am not saying my solution is the best I find it to be very practical.

[OttoVonAwesome]

Simple green mixed with water used to be my go to. fill a tub leave it in there for like a week then scrub it clean. it was cheap came in a giant jug but haven't been able to find it in ages.

[pawl]

Isopropyl alcohol might not be the most effective tool (there are definitely stronger solvents out there, some of which are plastic-safe) but it is still very good for the job, and cheap!

 

I wrote this guide ages ago - it could probably do with an update but the words are still true! The sooner you get it soaking (and re-soaking if necessary) the better, time is your friend. =]

[andes]

Thanks everyone. I'm no stranger to stripping models, been doing it for years... I've just never tried a big model before so was looking for vehicle-specific advice. I'll drill a few drain holes in concealed spots to aid drainage and just give it a go.

[pawl]

17 minutes ago, andes said:

Thanks everyone. I'm no stranger to stripping models, been doing it for years... I've just never tried a big model before so was looking for vehicle-specific advice. I'll drill a few drain holes in concealed spots to aid drainage and just give it a go.

Apologies, forgot about that bit when I replied!

 

I've never bothered with drainage holes much, in all honesty. I figure if it can get in it can get out, particularly as I use products that will evaporate. That said a hole or two on the underside of the chassis will likely never be seen, so shouldn't be a problem.

[Craig]

Does isopropyl alcohol cause issues with the clear canopy plastic? Will it cloud or degrade it as it's a different type of plastic?

[Guest]

20 minutes ago, Craig said:

Does isopropyl alcohol cause issues with the clear canopy plastic? Will it cloud or degrade it as it's a different type of plastic?

I actually don't know...  But for science I will test it now.

[pawl]

30 minutes ago, Craig said:

Does isopropyl alcohol cause issues with the clear canopy plastic? Will it cloud or degrade it as it's a different type of plastic?

 

I mean in theory it should be fine, but I'm interested to what results @Brother Captain Arkley gets!

[Guest]

Step 1 - The Science experiment... He was a former criminal so don't feel sad.

Step 2 - Sentenced to death by drowning.

Step 3 - Came out a reformed criminal.

 

Jokes aside

 

This was done in 30 mins or so, I used Mech Standard Grey, with my initial results are poor.

 

I will leave it for 24 hours and see if it changes but my results say for now don't.

Edited November 16, 2022 by Brother Captain Arkley

[pawl]

Hmm. Could it be that the micro-pitting caused by the solvents in rattle cans has changed the finish?

[Guest]

19 minutes ago, pawl said:

Hmm. Could it be that the micro-pitting caused by the solvents in rattle cans has changed the finish?

Thats possible.

 

Either way I think if you need to strip it, bear in mind you might have to give it a tint or blacked etc some effect to save it.

[Guest]

OK nearly 24 hours later...

 

Short answer  - NO.

 

Long answer - NO :). But if you have to you will be forced to make it tinted etc.

[andes]

Drainage holes will be added to quicken drainage and subsequent drying. Waiting for cleanser to evaporate from an almost totally enclosed space will take a long while and I'm impatient.

[pawl]

6 hours ago, MetalMammoth said:

On high concentration alcohol: In my experience it only works if you've used no primer or a weak primer. I've used a fairly strong automotive primer on my models - totally not hobby purpose - and at best I can achieve partial removal, on the highest, most exposed surfaces, and even that's with heavy-handed, vigorous toothbrushing. Luckily I have no need to do so. It was just the test figures.

 

On particularly tough primers time and exposure really help.

An hour to soak, scrub off the top layer. Leave overnight, scrub off the top layer. Leave for a week...

I like to simply start the soak long before I intend to strip (like months before!), and sometimes I simply have to swish them around and they're clean!

 

On a couple of models I've found that the plastic (or indeed, metal, particularly older metal) seems to have become 'stained' by the primer. I haven't tried sanding or scraping to remove it, but the surface has been perfectly smooth so I haven't worried about it.

 

I've yet to come across anything that iso couldn't get rid of though. A while back I stripped some ooold tacticals that I got in an ebay lot. Thick gloss varnish, and what appeared to be thick layered enamel paints underneath. They took a little patience and effort but they still came up okay in the end. =]

[Beaky Brigade]

I recently stripped an old rhino but helpfuly both sides and many parts were coming off anyway. I didn't find the voids in the tracks an issue in practice. 

 

It may be worth drilling holes in sealed voids before stripping not only to aid drainage, but to prevent them being buoyant, but it's up to you. 

 

It may be worth filling empty space in the container with other models you want to strip, as this will reduce the volume of solvent you need to fill a large container, though I did end up flipping the parts anyway.