Help - Spray varnish goes on the model as discrete spots rather than a continuous coat

[Xenith]

This might be a very obvious thing that I'm doing wrong, but I want to check.

 

I'm still new to the varnishing game, but when using spray varnishes, even with manufacturer's instructions, the varnish seems to go on the model as tiny spots of varnish that are not joined up, and they look like they would dry into a bumpy texture. I have no idea if this is correct and they would flow into one another after a few minutes, so I've been going back over with a heavier coat from 6" away, which seems to do the trick and give one continuous flat coat across the model, however this feels like a very thick coat, and I'm not sure if someday it will ruin a model.

 

So I ask the community, what is a spray varnish supposed to look like on the model right after spraying? Tiny spatters or continuous coat? Am I doing something wrong?

 

For reference, I've used Windsor & Newton professional matte, W&N prof satin and liquitex matte and had the same result of patchy spotty spatters with all 3. The liquitex in particular seems to spray really badly and I have to get very close to the model to get an even coat, which then ends up seemingly thick.

 

Any thoughts or tips are welcome! 

 

 

[andes]

I've never experienced that, but have never used those brands. It's interesting that they're all trad artist stuff and not mini/model brands. I'd try Testor's  or GW's spray varnish and see how those work for you. FWIW, I shoot Vallejo acrylic varnishes through an airbrush and have never had a problem (and have heard enough frosting/hazing horror stories that I'd never go back to rattlecan varnish)

[Firedrake Cordova]

It should go on as a continuous coat, in the same way as primer, etc. If you're getting a "grainy" texture to the finish, to me that would be an indication that the varnish is drying in the air before it hits the model.

 

I haven't used an aerosol varnish in many years (the last one was a late 1990's GW aerosol can in the early-to-mid-2000's), but I got good results with that just dusting the model. More recently, I've been using Vallejo polyurethane varnish applied with an airbrush, without any problems.

Edited March 21, 2023 by Firedrake Cordova

[Grotsmasha]

Although I use Munitorum Varnish from the can and not an airbrush, it should definitely be a solid cohesive coat rather than splotches.

Typically I get the solid coverage in 3 passes, front on left to right , then front on right to left, then zenithal from either direction. Then same for the rear of the model.

At the correct distance you can catch regular models head to toe in a single pass and I don't know if airbrushes have the same spread.

[spafe]

So if its mottled, that sounds like (sorry if its teaching you how to suck eggs) you've not shaken the can enough, or you are running low (ie the can is almost empty). Sounds like you are picking up more propellant than varnish when spraying. Shaking the can more should help, I tend to spray (with every can I use) from about 9-12" away. That is for gw, armypainter, halfords, B&M and any other brands, and primer, coloured paint, gloss and matt varnish. I've never used the W&N  stuff though, so they might be different?

 

With regards to the frosting or texture you somtimes hear about, that is caused by two factors, one is temp. being too cold, which can cause the paint/varnish to dry before hitting the model (only ever in very light dusting sprays), and more commonly (slightly linked to temp), is humidity. This is the water in the air, which the propellant will cool even more, and the paint or varnish mixing with when travelling through the air, causing the misting or textured finish on the model. Temp will play into this as if it is colder then it can be less humid and still cause a problem than that same humidity at a warmer temp.

 

Finally the best results I've found if I really want to protect models (usually gaming pieces like necromunda or bloodbowl where they are placed prone during gameplay), I will hit with a fairly solid coat of gloss to create a decent protective layer, then a light hit with a matt varnish once it is fully dry to take the shine off the model.

[LittlePlasticHomies]

When I was using rattle cans, even products that typically worked could go wonky pretty easily if humidity or  temperature fell outside ideal conditions.
 

If you can, airbrushing is probably your best bet.

 

If not, it may be best to make sure you’re only leveraging your varnish in ideal conditions.

[Xenith]

On 3/21/2023 at 2:19 PM, spafe said:

So if its mottled, that sounds like (sorry if its teaching you how to suck eggs) you've not shaken the can enough, or you are running low (ie the can is almost empty).

 

I'm thinking this might be it - I'm still a newb with varnish, so had only been shaking cans for 1-2 mins, like I do with my paints. The cans are basically full as it's happened from the get-go, I'll have to just spend a solid 5 mins shaking them on stick youtube on or something. 

[Orange Knight]

Shake the can a lot. They normally suggest 2 minutes of shaking, I would advise you double that. It's very tedious but we have to go the extra mile to preserve our beloved models.

 

Also make sure that the air isn't too humid, or that the room isn't dusty.

Edited April 13, 2023 by Orange Knight

[Rik Lightstar]

One thing that I find absolutely makes a difference with any rattle can is to warm them up before using them. I fill a washing up bowl with warm water from the tap and put the can in there for a while before spraying.

 

You've probably noticed that the can gets cold as you're spraying, keeping in mind how much of a difference temperature can make to how paints and varnishes behave it's worthwhile to get the can warmed up first especially when the weather is already cold.

 

Rik

[Xenith]

So I got some pictures, not on models but on an ornamental metal flower I said I'd varnish for the in laws. This really shows what I mean, a series of not-joined-up discrete blobs of varnish. I have a feeling that these might run and merge together to make a smooth coat at some pointm but it really worries me when it goes onto a model like this. 

 

This was sprayed from about 8" away using Liquitex matte varnish. I also made sure to shake the can for 5+ minutes, and regularly when spraying.

 

 

 

Edited April 12, 2023 by Xenith

[Oxydo]

Whenever I use Vallejo's spray varnish I get occasionally get the same mottled effect, but it always dries flat and more or less even. If the gaps are very large(rare, usually only on areas that has a current gloss coat) it can end in a splotchy coverage.

 

Note that this is just happens for the first coat and by the 2nd coat it evens out nicely regardless of splotchy/mottled the first layer was.

 

I would let that result dry and then give it a 2nd coat to see if it ends up being fine.

 

Attached one of my hounds that I'm farily confident had a splotchy finish on the gloss coat covering his transfers during part of the process. This one has a total of 4-6 coats of matt varnish at this point depending on location.

[Xenith]

14 hours ago, Oxydo said:

Whenever I use Vallejo's spray varnish I get occasionally get the same mottled effect, but it always dries flat and more or less even.

 

That's good to know - so far i've not let it dry like that and gone back over at a closer range to close all the gaps, and it's dried ok and flat, but maybe a bit thick, maybe I need to test it out on something and see if the splatter dries flat.