Quick and dirty epoxy putty primer

[space wolf]

So for those that are interested in green stuff for conversions, here are some things I have learned over the years through trial and error. I think I'm pretty good at what I do, but there are others that know far more than me, so don't take what I say as gospel.

 

Rule1: understand the putty you're working with.

Often, to get the best results it's best to use a mix of putties.

Greenstuff: keeps its shape relatively well when not cured, dried fairly hard, and most importantly, is stretchy. Not great for blending smoothly into something else, and can be difficult to achieve super sharp corners and details.

 

Milliput: is great for getting really sharp edges, dries rock hard, but can be brittle (when cured) and doesn't hold its shape well unless supported by something else(when uncured). Sands very well.

 

Magic Sculpt: similar properties to milliput, but doesn't sand as well. It is however easier to smooth it out with water and a brush or a soft tool. 

 

So with all of that, if found the best way ti get crisp but strong details is to do a 50/50 or 40/60 mix of Greenstuff/milliput or magic sculpt. This allows you to get some stretchyness from the GS, but also smooth with water for smoothness and sharp details/edges. 

 

As a general rule this will get you far, however you really want to tailor your mix based on what you're doing. As an example:

 

Here is a Space Marine arm that I am going to extend and "chonkify." 

Edited May 7, 2023 by space wolf

[space wolf]

First I cut it into pieces and pin it to the length I want. Then I use pure GS to build a core "skeleton" around the pin. And let it cure. This ensures that the putty I use for the outer layer has something more substantial to stick to, besides just a piece of wire. This leads to the 2nd rule: 

 

Rule 2: work in stages.

Once the "skeleton" is cured I have a good base to put down a final layer. So I mixed up a batch of 40/60 GS/Magic Sculpt, and filled the voids. See the photo below of the finished arm right below the shoulder joint.

 

 

 

This was done by getting the mix into place and using a tool to smooth it out, then coming in with a brush and water, and really getting it smooth.  

 

You'll notice however, that the putty for the joint material.ie a different color. That's because it was done with pure GS. This was because it holds its shape better so when I use a knife to cut the little slips, it's much more forgiving. This allows me to get a good consistent shape. And since the shape doesn't have any hard edges, this makes pure GS perfect for this.

 

Speaking of using a knife:

 

Rule 3: use the right tools.

 

Many people have preferences on what they use. The key is to use tools that don't stick to the putty. You can use metal tools, but make sure they are wet or have some sort of oil on them, otherwise you are going to be extremely frustrated. There are other tools called color shapers or clay shapers, these have rubber tips, that won't stick to the putty. They come in all shapes sizes and hardnesses. Experiment, find what works for you. These are what I used for the arm above.

Edited May 6, 2023 by space wolf