Do you varnish your miniatures?

[Captain Idaho]

I noticed some people have said they use a gloss coat followed by some sort of matte layer on top? I didn't know that was a thing!

 

So how does that differ from a straight matte coat? I utilised a gloss to protect on my Custodes and they shined too much, so what would you guys suggest in that case?

[Lysimachus]

33 minutes ago, Captain Idaho said:

I noticed some people have said they use a gloss coat followed by some sort of matte layer on top? I didn't know that was a thing!

 

So how does that differ from a straight matte coat? I utilised a gloss to protect on my Custodes and they shined too much, so what would you guys suggest in that case?

 

This is what I usually do. A gloss coat is much harder wearing, better protection, but as you say the shine can look awful. So you put a coat of matte varnish over the top to take the shine away (though I have sometimes been more selective with where I add the matte, leaving it off on areas that I want the shine - power weapons or metallic areas?) Best of both worlds!

 

Edit: I did once buy a can of spray varnish, but I've always been too cowardly to try using it, much prefer brushing it on for more control! The matte can sometimes still dry a bit white, but I've found if you give the bottle a really good shake and put it in a shallow bowl of warm water while you're using it, that issue happens a lot less!

Edited May 27, 2023 by Lysimachus

[Captain Idaho]

I'll try this!

[Firedrake Cordova]

52 minutes ago, Lysimachus said:

This is what I usually do. A gloss coat is much harder wearing, better protection

This very much used to be the case, although Vallejo state with their polyurethane varnishes (including the Mecha line) this is no longer the case.

[Aramis K]

On 5/27/2023 at 9:48 AM, Captain Idaho said:

I noticed some people have said they use a gloss coat followed by some sort of matte layer on top? I didn't know that was a thing!

 

So how does that differ from a straight matte coat? I utilised a gloss to protect on my Custodes and they shined too much, so what would you guys suggest in that case?

 

Lahmin medium is nice and easy to brush on for taking the shine off, and the level of matte matches usual unvarnished GW paint finish. Magic juice. 

You'll need to experiment over gold though, as all the varnishes will change the metallic effect.

[Arkhanist]

On 5/27/2023 at 10:14 AM, Firedrake Cordova said:

This very much used to be the case, although Vallejo state with their polyurethane varnishes (including the Mecha line) this is no longer the case.

 

It's usually the chemical type of varnish that matters, rather than the finish. Matt varnish of the same type in the same line is just the gloss varnish plus matting agent.

 

The toughest type is lacquer or enamel (oil based varnishes), then polyurethane, then acrylic is the weakest.

 

Way back in the day, your choice was basically gloss lacquer furniture varnish, or modelling acrylic varnishes - and metal models were much more prone to chipping in particular. Hence it made a lot of sense to use a tough gloss lacquer coat for strength, and an acrylic matt for finish.

 

These days, if you're already using say, testors dullcote spray - which is a lacquer - or both gloss and matt vallejo polyurethane, then you're not gaining mechanically from a gloss coat first, but obviously that old modelling knowledge - gloss then matt - persists.

 

THAT said, some people prefer the final effect of a thin gloss coat then a thin matt coat, rather than 2 thin matt, as it probably will be a bit more satiny. And you're only risking frosting in the 2nd layer. Or you can use a semi-matt or satin varnish - I do this for marines, for example, but prefer matt for more organic models. As the old saw goes, the customer is always right in matters of taste!

 

I guess the equivalent of gloss-then-matt these days would be a gloss polyurethane or lacquer varnish, then a layer of lahmian medium painted on - protection from the varnish layer, but should be very similar finish to raw paint and no risk of frosting. I may give this a go to see how it compares!

Edited May 28, 2023 by Arkhanist

[Special Officer Doofy]

I use varnish. Worth it if you travel with and handle your miniatures (no point if they just sit on a shelf). I did accidentally "frost" one miniature. Like with new paints or painting style, practice on something less important first! 

[crimsondave]

I usually do. Always Testors dullcote simply because that’s what I started with.

[phandaal]

Another benefit I have heard for gloss then matte is it gives the matte a smooth surface to settle on. This prevents frosting by getting rid of any kind of porous surface that excess matte can settle into. Conceptually, it makes sense, but I am not sure that is the actual mechanism that causes frosting.

[Gederas]

Always varnish gaming pieces. I normally do Munitorum Varnish (satin) then Vallejo Matte, but that's because I don't really have easy access to Testor's Dullcote without going to Hobby Lobby

[bigtrouble]

I varnish for protection so I can play with them without rubbing paint off.

 

Edit: I use 2 coats of satin spray varnish. 

Edited May 28, 2023 by bigtrouble

[Bilskirnir3124]

I always varnish, usually with a matte but sometimes satin, mostly Vallejo's. This is mostly down to getting into model building with Gundam models. Those have tons of decals and stickers, and the adhesive doesn't really care for the plastic so much so you need to gloss coat the model, then apply stickers and decals, then matte or satin coat the models to seal the decals after. It's a habit that carried into building every other model I've ever made. I've only had one case of frosting luckily. And it was from an old, second hand can of matte coat at that.

[Corswain]

I have used gloss on some of my metallic figures before but it makes non-metallic details like leafher or cloth look weird so I now just use matte varnish. Some models use a combo depending on the effect I'm going for.

[Bloody Legionnaire]

Every single model.

[KenaiPhoneix]

I should, but to be honest I sill have hope that I will go the extra mile and star getting better at painting minis. I like a more "grim" and realistic touch by no adding anything after the shade, but I know there is a lot of room from improvement

[Matcap86]

I don't varnish as a finish, due to disliking the effect it gives on my painting style. (messes with transitions and tends to change the look of some colours)

 

I do use varnish when using oil paints and decals to make sure they have a smooth surface to settle on and then tone it down with matte varnish.

 

In gaming I tend to grab my models by their bases so usually no rubbing off of paint. 

 

 

[Bloody Legionnaire]

On 5/27/2023 at 3:48 AM, Captain Idaho said:

I noticed some people have said they use a gloss coat followed by some sort of matte layer on top? I didn't know that was a thing!

 

So how does that differ from a straight matte coat? I utilised a gloss to protect on my Custodes and they shined too much, so what would you guys suggest in that case?

A gloss coat aids in the application of decals because it provides a smooth surface that makes it easier to adjust the decal and get it in the desired position. 

 

On 5/27/2023 at 4:21 AM, Lysimachus said:

 

This is what I usually do. A gloss coat is much harder wearing, better protection, but as you say the shine can look awful. So you put a coat of matte varnish over the top to take the shine away (though I have sometimes been more selective with where I add the matte, leaving it off on areas that I want the shine - power weapons or metallic areas?) Best of both worlds!

 

Edit: I did once buy a can of spray varnish, but I've always been too cowardly to try using it, much prefer brushing it on for more control! The matte can sometimes still dry a bit white, but I've found if you give the bottle a really good shake and put it in a shallow bowl of warm water while you're using it, that issue happens a lot less!

 

Ehrm, not necessarily. 

Layers of paint are layers of paint are layers of paint. I believe the practice is more done because of the decal application process than anything else. That being said, I'm guessing multiple layers of gloss followed by 1-2 layers of semi-gloss or matte/flat has a better appearance than say 6 coats of matte/flat would produce. If you put 4 layers of gloss down followed by 1-2 layers of matte/flat then you have 6 additional layers of paint protecting the actual paint finish underneath. I'm fairly positive that a gloss layer of a acrylic offers the same level of protection a matter layer of acrylic offers. True durability is going to depend on the type of paint used. Lacquer being one of the hardest ones. 

Before anyone asks, yes.. it is okay to use lacquer on top of your acrylic paint as long as it is fully dry. 

[Brother Carpenter]

I usually varnish my models. I start with gloss for better decal adhesion and lesser silver transfer effect. Then seal any decals with a new gloss layer and finally a matte layer.

[lhg033]

+1 for bad experiences with spray varnishes. 100% my fault for not understanding/paying attention to what I was doing well enough but it has still put me off these.

I varnish all models painted with contrast paints, by hand these days using a Vallejo varnishes. Just storing the models in a foam tray is enough to rub off / damage the finish for contrast paints.
I havent really done anything with layer paints in a while but I hadnt previously varnished these and they've generally stood the test of time.

[Guest]

Gloss then Matte for me...  (Airbrush)

[nilsh]

Usually I varnish, what kind depends on the miniature and always by brush as I don't have a place to spray.

[StratoKhan]

I've found that repeated handling can rub paint off of plastic miniatures, especially on the pointed parts of a model, or on a model's edges. So yes, I do varnish.

I've been experimenting with oils and generally you varnish mid-paintjob to use the oils.

 

I find that a coat of gloss followed by a coat of matt varnish is a good final protective combo, regardless of the painting process. for smaller details or assemblies, I sometimes brush the varnish, just try not to clog up the details with too much varnish.

[Shovellovin]

In the past, I used rattlecans and had some issues with matt varnish. If you ever get a frosted matt look on a model you can try to shake the rattle can vigorously and then spray the model again. I found that solved the issue for me.

 

Now I tend to use Vallejo's satin and matt varnishes through my airbrush. Some areas of the model, such as a marine's eye lenses I will brush on gloss varnish. When I use oils I spray Pledge floor polish on the model so that the paint will flow better.

 

I varnish all of my models. Like some others have discussed, I use varnish to get a uniform finish on my models as some paints tend to be more glossy or matt than others.

[Sir Clausel]

I always varnish. I have always used spray cans for varnish and have had very very few problems. Always sprayed outside. 

Right now i use munitorium varnish from GW and i like the satin look it gives but have recently started brushing on matt varnish after on the cloth and base and it really makes a nice difference.

[Imren]

YES! Do you go to events/tournaments? Do you play friendly games with your mates over beer and pretzels? Then you ought to varnish to protect your minis from greasy and drunk fingers.

 

Best way is to airbrush vallejo polyurethane varnish in two coats with 24h in between so that the first coat get to cure before the second one. You can  mix and match between matt and gloss to get either matt or gloss or satin and everything in between. I varnish my 30k Alpha legion and Iron hands with 3:1 ratio between gloss and matt VAllejo polyurethane varnish so that the metallic armour panels doesnt get dulled down and the metallic effect diminish. With airbrush you get far better control and easier to prevent frosting compared to spray cans and also you get a more even and thin coat compared to brushing it on.