Yriel yellow vs phalanx yellow

[Inquisitor_Lensoven]

Phalanx is super thin and runny, is yriel just as thin?

[Grotsmasha]

I've found yriel Yellow to be of an ok consistency, never tried Phalanx, so I don't know the comparrison. However, unless you're painting a tank, I cannot recommend Imperial Fist Contrast enough as a base layer.

 

What is it you're painting?

[Inquisitor_Lensoven]

21 minutes ago, Grotsmasha said:

I've found yriel Yellow to be of an ok consistency, never tried Phalanx, so I don't know the comparrison. However, unless you're painting a tank, I cannot recommend Imperial Fist Contrast enough as a base layer.

 

What is it you're painting?

My old empire models.

 

im going w/ averland sunset as a base, but it’s a bit too mustardy colored for my taste so I’m trying to find a lighter/brighter yellow.

 

https://warhammerfantasy.fandom.com/wiki/Military_Uniforms_of_the_Empire?file=Talabecland_Uniforms-02.png

[Grotsmasha]

Yriel Yellow should work really well over the Averland Sunset

 

 

[MithrilForge]

I mix Averland sunset with Flashgitz yellow (1:2) for a brighter yellow that also has good coverage... and keep adding brighter yellows or even white to that mix for highlights... 

Yriel yellow has been for me a very average paint ... 

 

M

[Firedrake Cordova]

I've never used the paints you mention, but they're both "layer" paints, so they're designed to be a bit translucent. As @Grotsmasha suggests, you'll probably get good results with it over Averland Sunset, as that's how it was designed to be used.  

 

Otherwise, the new Vallejo Game Colour paints have good coverage (but dry matte, rather than satin - not a problem if you're varnishing your models) - maybe Gold-, Sunblast-, or Bad Moon Yellow might be worth a look? (you can tell the new line, because they've got tamper-proof lids, and the new branding)

[Inquisitor_Lensoven]

Just an update, Im building the yellow up from averland, to yeirl, to flash gitz.

 

the flash gitz is the color of yellow I wanted, but directly over averland it still looks very orange tinged.

 

neither yellow are anywhere near as thing and runny as phalanx yellow is.

[Sky Potato]

Have you tried going direct to the colour of yellow you want over a white or cream undercoat? Try using white scar or Wraithbone as a base spray then multiple thin coats of Flash Gitz or Yriel. 
 

I tried building up to Yriel over the top of Averland once, and I just couldn’t seem to get a smooth coat. Following Daz Lathams video on YouTube where he went from Wraithbone straight to Yriel made the whole thing much easier.

[Grotsmasha]

Honestly for a single coat, you can't beat Imperial Fist Contrast, seriously.

[Cleon]

15 minutes ago, Grotsmasha said:

Honestly for a single coat, you can't beat Imperial Fist Contrast, seriously.

I keep seeing people say that, but I'm finding Imperial Fist contrast to be a semi glaze at best despite a total shake up - it doesn't cover any uneveness in the white undercoat or mistakes - not sure if I have a duff one or am just expecting too much or if others have thrown away the contrast undercoats as useless (I do find paint barely holds on it). My 'go to' yellow base coat (since Iyandon darksun went away with the foundation paints) is Vallejo Japanese uniform, which gives me a good coverage with two basic coats even over black.

[Grotsmasha]

This is the type of result I get from Imperial Fist with Seraphim Sepia pre-shade, and Dorn Yellow highlight,

[Cleon]

Ok, so if you are pre-shading then the paint isn't trying to adhere directly to sprayed on wraithbone - which is currently my main suspect for the issue.

[Firedrake Cordova]

If Averland Sunset is too orange, have you tried doing a 50:50 mix of Averland Sunset and Flash Gitz Yellow? That should get you some extra coverage, whilst also being closer to the colour you want?

 

I know I've mentioned it before, and it depends on local availability, but the new Vallejo Game Colour paints have very good coverage, e.g. Angel Giraldez's tutorial has Sun Yellow covering black in 3 thin coats. In their range, Sun Yellow is supposed to be close to Flash Gitz Yellow.

Edited January 14 by Firedrake Cordova

[Grotsmasha]

58 minutes ago, Cleon said:

Ok, so if you are pre-shading then the paint isn't trying to adhere directly to sprayed on wraithbone - which is currently my main suspect for the issue.

Slap / Chop, so a white drybrush over Wraithbone, with Sepia in the recesses.

[Cleon]

Yes, having now had time for a redo, over anything but the sprayed on wraithbone it's working fine - it's not the magic sometimes described, but it seems to hate the undercoat spray specifically made for contrast paints.... I don;t pretend to understand anymore.

[Grotsmasha]

7 hours ago, Cleon said:

Yes, having now had time for a redo, over anything but the sprayed on wraithbone it's working fine - it's not the magic sometimes described, but it seems to hate the undercoat spray specifically made for contrast paints.... I don;t pretend to understand anymore.

I suspect you have a dud can, OR, it needs a lot of additional shaking. I haven't had this problem with Wraithbone, but have it with my current (and past) cans of Leadbelcher spray. Nuln oil absolutely will not stick to it, it's like it's hydrophobic and it pulls together on the flats and would dry in pools if I let it. I have to drybrush pot Leadbelcher over it to be able to use it.