Noob Q: Pinning Large Models Tutorial

[Kage2020]

I was just doing a quick scrawl through the YouTubes to try and find a great tutorial on how to pin together large models. I have a number of either mecha- or titan-sized models that I was thinking of putting together, and I just wanted to figure out how to align articulations in a pose that I liked, make sure that drilled holes align etc.

 

Anyone have a decent tut to hand?

 

Oh, there are also some 40k materials, too, I just don't have a photo/image of those to hand. 

 

Edited February 17 by Kage2020

[Firedrake Cordova]

From what I remember, the general recommendation for pinning was to drill one side of the join, insert a short pin, apply a blob of paint to the pin, and then put the other part of the join into position - this should leave a paint mark where you should drill.

[Grotsmasha]

ALSO, use two-part epoxy glue as it is generally stronger and more appropriate for models of titan size.

 

For Titans, I've seen (with smaller holes), self tapping screws used, typically in the hips and under the feet.

[Kage2020]

13 hours ago, Firedrake Cordova said:

From what I remember, the general recommendation for pinning was to drill one side of the join, insert a short pin, apply a blob of paint to the pin, and then put the other part of the join into position - this should leave a paint mark where you should drill.

 

I might be overthinking this, but: What about depth/angle?

[Grotsmasha]

4 hours ago, Kage2020 said:

 

I might be overthinking this, but: What about depth/angle?

For depth, secure the pin in one piece, then leave your pin too long and adjust with test fits until the pieces slide completely together. Its better to do it this way than end up with a pin that is too short.

For angle, if it's a straight flush fit, no dramas. If it's for something like a ball joint, it's better to drill and pin in the centre and straight in the ball, and then decide the correct correct angle for the hole in the socket piece, rather than trying to match the pin angle by drilling into ball.

[Kage2020]

Hmmn. I can see the paint gig working, but I guess I was concerned about making sure that you put the pins in at the right angle when you independently drilled each "side" of the articulation. Of course, when you engage the 'ole grey noodle, I guess that trying to drill it as close to orthogonal to the surface is about all that you can do. 

[apologist]

@Grotsmasha's advice is solid. I'd also suggest that for very large joints, it's a good idea to use two offset pins, rather than one central one. This helps to secure the pieces in the right position, and avoids putting too much stress on things.

 

Drilling guide holes using a small pin vice will help you ensure the correct alignment – if it's slightly off, then you can correct as you bore out the hole with a larger pin.

[Xenith]

3 hours ago, apologist said:

it's a good idea to use two offset pins, rather than one central one

 

Came here to say this - anything that can have rotation, like a long arm with a flat connection, will benefit from 2 smaller pins as opposed to one larger, that can form an axle for the joint to rotate on. 2 pins locks it in place. 

[LameBeard]

Another option for some joints would be to drill all the way through. Eg let’s assume you are pinning an arm to a shoulder.

 

1) Drill all the way through the arm.

2) line up the arm where you want it, and using a long-enough drill bit, drill through the arm to the shoulder. You now have angle and position right.

3) remove arm and drill a bit deeper if necessary. Insert pin in shoulder - choose length so it does not quite go all the way through the arm. Fit the arm.

4) Fill the hole on the outside of the arm.

 

Obviously the downside is the risk of not being able to do a perfect clean-up job on that outside hole. But sometimes these holes might even be hidden by pads, weapons or other gubbins.

[tychobi]

Going to put my two cents on no pins at all. Abraded surfaces and quality crazy glue with an accelerator and you should be fine. Not as strong as a pinned joint but less chance of messing up.  Most damage that would break a glue joint will leave surface damage on a pinned model and catastrophic damage to a pinned joint can be really tough to fix. Failed glue joints reglue quick.  Biggest I've gone is a forge world resin reaver titan.  He's delicate but would be even with pins so for me it's a matter of when and where I want to spend my time.  In pre or in post?