Painting over Leadbelcher

[utahraptor232]

Hi all,

I've been trying to plan a paint scheme for an upcoming army and I was wondering if it would be difficult painting white/grey over Leadbelcher. Specifically, white sleeves over a Leadbelcher rattlecan base coat, followed by a wash. I've done something similar on a much smaller scale miniature but that was only a white spec over the metallic, so I'm unsure if it'd be much different on a larger scale. Is it viable? And if not, any quick alternatives?

[Grotsmasha]

It's been a semi-recurring issue specifically with the Leadbelcher spray, where people have trouble getting paint to adhere over it, almost like its hydrophobic. I've personally experienced it, and my solution was to shake the ever loving crap out if. Twice. Then once more for good luck.

Assuming you're not having adherence issues, you will be able to paint over it with Grey/Whites with no more difficulty than any other paint.

Another alternative would be to consider sub asseblies if possible.

[utahraptor232]

7 minutes ago, Grotsmasha said:

Assuming you're not having adherence issues, you will be able to paint over it with Grey/Whites with no more difficulty than any other paint.

Another alternative would be to consider sub asseblies if possible

Awesome, thank you! I do practice using a proper primer before the colored spray coats, so I assume that would help some. As for sub assemblies I try to avoid them for the purposes of gaming before I've finished painting stuff, but I can try if need be.

[Grotsmasha]

9 minutes ago, utahraptor232 said:

Awesome, thank you! I do practice using a proper primer before the colored spray coats, so I assume that would help some. As for sub assemblies I try to avoid them for the purposes of gaming before I've finished painting stuff, but I can try if need be.

Peachy has confirmed that all of GW's coloured rattle cans ARE Primers too, so if you're using GW rattle cans you may be able to skip priming Black/Grey?White first

[utahraptor232]

But it feels so wrong! Excellent to know though, I tried to double check if it was a while ago but never found anything definitive.

[Firedrake Cordova]

The normal advice would be to grab a bit of spare sprue, and try it on that.  

 

As a general rule, white has some coverage issues, so you may be better off using a very light grey instead. Alternatively, some of the artist's soft-bodied acrylic whites are supposed to have a higher level of pigmentation that the regular GW line.

[Dr. Clock]

1 hour ago, Firedrake Cordova said:

As a general rule, white has some coverage issues, so you may be better off using a very light grey instead.

100% this. I don't even use 'true white' for anything... Ulthuan Grey, Pallid Wych and/or a careful touch of game colour Verdigris are my usual... and that's for 'white' power armour! Basically - off-whites are your friend : )

 

Over any metallic I'd always recommend 2 further basecoats of Wraithbone or Grey Seer just to double make sure that no pops of metal come through. Sometimes a surface will look okay but for whatever reason applying different wash, glaze or other products through your process can 'reveal' things you thought you covered and kick you back to square one.

 

No experience on the spray side - I just don't build or paint in batches of more than 5 any more, and the weather here is basically never ideal for spraying.

 

Cheers,

 

The God Doctor

[utahraptor232]

3 hours ago, Firedrake Cordova said:

Alternatively, some of the artist's soft-bodied acrylic whites are supposed to have a higher level of pigmentation that the regular GW line.

I have Vallejo white on hand which is what I was hoping to be able to use, and was going to grab some Coelia Greenshade to tone it down. 

 

1 hour ago, Dr. Clock said:

Over any metallic I'd always recommend 2 further basecoats of Wraithbone or Grey Seer just to double make sure that no pops of metal come through. Sometimes a surface will look okay but for whatever reason applying different wash, glaze or other products through your process can 'reveal' things you thought you covered and kick you back to square one.

Noted, thank you! I'll have to experiment once the wind dies down here.

For reference, this sleeve color is what I'm attempting to go for. Much prefer it to the Justarien black undersuit these fellows normally get, plus it works better for generic voidship cannon fodder if I wanted to play something like Rogue Trader.

[Dr. Clock]

Nice, yep

 

For that I'd probably do 2 coats Grey Seer > recess wash Basilicanum Grey > layer Ulthuan Grey (avoiding recess/shadows) > lightest possible drybrush white? > spot shade Nuln Oil for deepest folds/seams and to clean up earlier Ulthuan spill-over.

 

I don't know if you ever saw/heard it, but in an interview back in the Wade Pryce GW podcast days John Blanche said that his final step on all minis is a near-invisible white drybrush. Like rub the paint off until it's essentially undetectable before going to town on the mini. I don't do that as a matter of course personally, but I've tried it on occasion and this seems like a great application of that potentially...

 

Cheers,

 

The Good Doctor.

[KAINE-77]

Just to add some experience I've had if it helps.

 

I always work from a metallic basecoat, and it is difficult to sometimes get good coverage over the top. Something that helps is a wash over the metals first, it seems to help the next layer cover better.