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I've just finished assembling and basing my Kroot box and in order to simulate a jungle/forest floor I have used some old Cajun spice mix with some PVA glue and I think it looks pretty nice:

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Now I really need to seal it to stop moisture getting into it. When I use sand for basing I tend to just use diluted PVA to seal stuff in place but this time I don't think it's going to cut it.

 

Does anyone have any ideas how I can lock this stuff in place without reactivating the PVA that's there and undoing what I've already done? I think when I was watching either the Ninjon or Miniac Youtube channels I think I saw them fixing basing material in place using really thin cyanoacrylate adhesive from a pipette. Would that work and would anyone know where to get that kind of glue, or do you know a better solution? 

 

Thanks in advance.

The bases look really good. I don’t think that you can reactivate PVA like that, you should be fine adding more. Once it’s dried and hardened I don’t think there’s any risk.

You could try using some varnish instead.

 

maybe do a test on one base?

 

Knowing how much the stuff sticks to everything, thin superglue sounds like it would be very fiddly.

  • Solution

Extra thin super glue (lower surface tension than water) can be good for sticking things like sand to a base, but I'm not sure it would be your best bet here.

 

When using it I like to work on the base dry, arranging things until I'm happy, and then adding the super glue to set it. Much the same way that Valbjorn does in his yt video.

 

For something like this I don't think you'd get any benefit though. Better to simply use a pipette and thinned pva to seal it. Marco Frisoni (NotJustMecha) has a video about making indestructible bases that also utilises wet water (50:50 isopropanol:water) but I wouldn't imagine you have enough depth in the material for that to be needed.

 

Stick with the pva, I would say. =]

I agree with pawl - use the PVA again once the initial layer is dry.  If you still feel the need to have something sitting atop that, then the varnish sprayed down would be best, and then your primer on top of that should lock everything down completely.

Do you intend to paint the spice mix? Because if you do, the spray primer should hold it just fine. I do the same as you have done but with sharp sand, and once painted it’s hard as a rock.

Edited by TheArtilleryman

Cheers for the replies. I tried watered down satin varnish on a test model and that seems to be okay but I haven't done any durability testing yet. I did find the water did bead up a little, the wet water mix sounds like a good way to break up that surface tension. Either that or a little dish soap?

 

I wandered off to a board game club today so I didn't get anything done beyond the test model on the way out of the door. I will try pva tomorrow and compare results and then report back. 

31 minutes ago, Magos Takatus said:

Cheers for the replies. I tried watered down satin varnish on a test model and that seems to be okay but I haven't done any durability testing yet. I did find the water did bead up a little, the wet water mix sounds like a good way to break up that surface tension. Either that or a little dish soap?

If you're having trouble with beading then a drop of something to break the surface tension won't hurt, yeah. Pva tends to smooth itself out fairly well (certainly when thinned), but it's not playing ball then a helping hand won't do any harm.

I've never actually tried using dish soap though, so I'll not comment on how effective it is!

Just a quick update, the PVA seems to have worked better than I expected. the Fairy Liquid did a great job of breaking the surface tension of the water, though near the end of the batch it was introducing a lot of bubbles to the bases, so I has to mix a little more. It seems the bubbles have disappeared now the bases have dried and I think it's reasonably durable. I'll find out tomorrow when I dig out the airbrush if I blow all my basing material all over my room/face. :laugh:

Good news, the basing material has remained stable yet my models retain their oddly spicy aroma. I really hope that doesn't go mouldy in the future! Anyway, here's a look at the models in their primed state. Now just to actually paint them. Thanks for the help, turns out PVA was perfectly adequate after all and I was just being silly. :)

 

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