Canis Rex - Supplies needed

[INKS]

Long story short, I moved and have nothing now. Starting over. Canis Rex is the model I'll be starting on. So here is the question. How many different brushes? clippers, glue, and so on. What do people prefer these days for these products? There aren't any wrong answers, I am just a little overwhelmed and not sure where to look for this. I could just go to th e  GW webstore and just buy all this stuff and a bunch of brushes but I am sure there is a better way to do this without wasting a ton of money on things I don't need right now.

 

glue:

brushes:

 

clippers:

Paints:

 

These are the paints from what I understand:

The metal hull is: Leadbelcher, nuln oil, ironbreaker, stormhost silver

Gold: Retributor armor, agrax earthshade, liberator gold, stormhost silver

Black skeleton: abaddon black, dark reaper, thunderhawk blue, blue horror

Lasglow: sotek green, drakenhof nightshade, temple guard blue, baharroth blue

Lasimpulsor gold color: warplock bronze, nuln oil, brass scorpion, stormhost silver

Red: Mephiston red, carroburg crimson, evil sunz scarlet, squig orange

White: Celestial grey, ulthuan grey, white scar

Exhaust pipes, the hole part: warplock bronze, nuln oil, brass scorpion, stormhost silver

--If there are other colors I should be using, other brands please let me know what you prefer.

 

 

Others:

 

Not sure how I am going to base him so there is that as well. 

thank you for your time and consideration. 

[Firedrake Cordova]

For clippers, I like the Xuron 2175ETs - they do a good job of cutting near to the model and cleanly, so clean-up is easy and minimal. They're not designed for cutting thick or harder substances, so I've also go a pair of "standard" 2175s.

 

For glue, I use Tamiya' range of plastic cements. I mostly use the Extra Thin (green cap), but Extra Thin Quick Set (lime cap) is useful for fine and/or fiddly parts. The regular cement (white cap) is pretty gloopy, so is mostly used for bonding large parts/areas.

 

For brushes, there's lots of choices, and it largely comes down to personal preferences. The "main" artist companies (DaVinci, Escoda, Raphael, Rosemary & Co, and Winsor & Newton) all make excellent brushes. I would add not to overlook cheapo synthetic brushes for the "dirty" jobs, and also to consider a "brush hierarchy" (i.e. use a "good enough" brush for base-coating, and your best brush for detailing to extend the life of it).

Edited July 6 by Firedrake Cordova
Re-arranged to make more sense

[Grotsmasha]

glue: Plastic Glue, i use GW's out of convienience and habit, a lot of people will recommend Tamiya Thin, but I fing it evaporates too quickly for larger models.

brushes: For a Knight, I'd recommend an equivelant Citadel Shade Brush, and a M Layer

clippers: Jump on Amazon and search Hobby Kit, you'll get something like THIS for ~$10

Paints: I use GW, so I'll stick with those,

 

I'm probably a little more conservative with the number of paints required;

Hull: Leadbelcher => Nuln Oil => Leadbelcher => Stormhost Silver

Gold: Retributor Armor => Reikland Fleshshade => Retributor Armour => Stormhost Silver

Black skeleton: Corvus Black => Nuln Oil => Thunderhawk Blue => Blue Horror

Red: Mephiston Red => Reikland Fleshshade => Evil Sunz Scarlet => Wildrider Red

White: Corax White => Nuln Oil => Corax White => White Scar

Lasglow: Sotek Green =>Nuln Oil => Temple Guard Blue => Baharroth Blue

[WAR]

I second the gw glue as it seems to do a better job for me then tamiya. Just keep a lighter handy to clear the metal tube out.

 

I would recommend getting tamiya glue as well just to make sprue glue for gap filling. 
 

Paints stick to gw easy to get and don’t have to worry about matching. 
 

Tools a good old exacto knife, clippers as other suggested and a pin vice drill. I am a fan of the mold line scrapper. Also sanding sticks in various grits would be helpful (think sticks are nice as they can get into hard to reach places).

 

for the base tile grout, and various rock size mixes and some static shrubs go a long way 

[Grotsmasha]

22 minutes ago, WAR said:

Just keep a lighter handy to clear the metal tube out.

Was told at my local a few years back that simply flipping the tube around and waiing will clear it, the glue disolves itself, and clears the itself out, works a charm, haven't a blocked tube for more than a few seconds in years.

[Firedrake Cordova]

If I remember correctly, the GW glues have a drying retarder in them to stop them from drying too quickly and make them more "beginner-friendly". The Tamiya "thin" ones are supposed to be applied to the model with the seams held together, as they're drawn in via capillary action. Revell's Contacta plastic glue is packaged very similarly to GW's, although I found it a bit on the "hot" side (don't get it on any plastic you don't want to melt messily).

 

I'll throw in another vote for the mould line remover - it works well, although it isn't suitable for tight areas. Warlord Games do one which is very similar but with a plastic handle, if you're looking to save a little money. I also use a Swann-Morton surgical scalpel with a very blunt blade for tighter areas, and a sharp one for cutting things (obviously, scalpel blades are designed for cutting humans, so take extreme care around sharp ones).

 

Micromesh pads and sanding sticks can be very useful for removing mould lines and clipping burrs.

 

For basing, the GW texture paints work well, but aren't exactly cheap. Vallejo and AK Interactive have equivalents which come in 100-200ml pots, although I would add that they tend to have a "finer", "more realistic" texture than the GW ones (obviously, you could just mix some coarser sand into it). [example: Vallejo, AK] The 'Eavy Metal team still use sand glued to the base, which is less "realistic-looking" but provides a bit more visual interest through colour variation/"detail". For tufts, have a look at Gamer's Grass, Greenstuff World, or Tajima1. For other decorations, granite or slate chips, or chunks of bark for rocks, and either home-made or store-bought barbed wire (e.g. Army Painter).

Edited July 6 by Firedrake Cordova

[NovemberIX]

I'm also in the midst of Knight building and sort of getting a hobby restart. I like Cyapro medium viscosity CA glue, the applicator tips are especially nice. Clippers, I just use an old pair of GW ones I got back before they changed the handle design so not much help there, but I use an OLFA 157B handle and XB hobby blades along with an OLFA SVR-2 knife and ABB 9mm snap-off blade for clean up.

 

I can recommend PROACRYL paints, they have amazing coverage and pigment density, Vallejo is nice because they have a very wide variety of paints and a chart to convert from GW names to the closest equivalent.

 

As for brushes, I'll first caveat this by saying I'm not a great painter, but I just use craft store package bundles, and stick to a large wide flat brush, a medium flat brush, and a small angled brush along with some 05 to 00's for detail work. Cost about 5 US and last for at least a few paint projects even if you don't take great care of them.

 

When it comes to basing I'm very uncreative, modpodge and two different grits of sand, a couple pebbles and a bit of jewelry chain, spray black then dry bush different metallic colors, I think of it as the glasslands after an orbital bombardment.

[INKS]

going to respond in the next day or so to everyone, thank you so far for the feedback. what a bout primer and varnish?

[Firedrake Cordova]

I've been happy with Vallejo's Polyurethane Surface Primer and Polyurethane Varnish lines (using an airbrush).

 

It's probably worth saying that a lot of people really like Badger's Stynylrez primer, although I've not tried it (something about having a 200ml bottle of the Vallejo primer to work through).

[INKS]

thank you. I don't think I can get away with an airbrush in my apartment. 

[Sky Potato]

I’ve been brushing the Vallejo polyurethane varnishes on quite happily when I can’t be bothered setting up the airbrush.

[Grotsmasha]

For Primer and varnish, I'm going to stick with being a GW shill, Chaos Black and Munitorum cans are my go-to. 

Although I guess if an airbrush is a no-go in your apartment, cans maybe too? Are you able to get outside to spray?

[INKS]

52 minutes ago, Grotsmasha said:

For Primer and varnish, I'm going to stick with being a GW shill, Chaos Black and Munitorum cans are my go-to. 

Although I guess if an airbrush is a no-go in your apartment, cans maybe too? Are you able to get outside to spray?

Yes I can go outside to spray

[INKS]

I am still unsure if this is the route I am going but if I do, then Canis Rex is the model I will start with. Along with some extras to make him a little taller, these are the paints I think I am going to go with. I found a few different videos and this list in particular seems to come up semi often. There might be some paints I can cut. I am not a pro painter, and so some of the higher level techniques or the smaller shades might not even show up. Still, I thought I would share the list and see what others think about it.

 

Steel Armor: Dark Aluminium (Vallejo), Nuln Oil (Citadel), Silver (Vallejo), Darkenhof Nightshade (Citadel), Aluminum (Vallejo)

 

Gold Armor: Viking Gold (Scale 75), Reikland Fleshade (Citadel), Elven Gold (Scale 75), Heavy Metal (Scale 75), Snakebite Leather (Citadel)

 

Copper Parts: Copper (Pro Acryl), Agrax Earthshade (Citadel), Dwarven Gold (Scale 75), Violet Ink (Vallejo)

 

Black Parts: Coal Black (Pro Acryl), Rainy Grey (Scale 75)

 

Chainbreaker: Bold Titanium White (Pro Acryl), Aethermatic Blue (Citadel), Tallassar Blue (Citadel)

 

Red parts: Burnt Red (Pro Acryl), Bold Pyrrole Red (Pro Acryl), Casmium Red (AK)

 

White Parts: Neutral Grey (Pro Acryl), Bright Neutral Grey (Pro Acryl), Bold Titanium White (Pro Acryl)

 

 

Boy is that a lot of paints from a mix of ranges. I have heard good things about all of them. So quality wise I am not worried. I do think in some cases I can probably skip a paint or two because, like I said above, I am not sure my skills are going to translate over to seeing minor highlights. Sometimes that is hard to tell until you start painting and a paint looks darker to your eyes than you think it's supposed to. so you lighten and lighten and lighten and so on. Any feedback is welcome. :)

[sbarnby71]

Noticed a few comments about the mould line remover tool from GW, I have one and I used to use it a lot, but it can't get into the small spaces, so I started to use a 10a Scalpel blade back (turn the blade over, don't use the cutting edge) and this works so well I hardly ever use my mould line remover anymore.