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I'm starting the painting of mechanicum.

I must say that I am uterly disapointed by GW for this mechanicum (on the paint topic): no paint scheme in the book, no paint miniatures in the book, only the poor image of the box used ad nauseum everywhere. 
Except the thursday article, no idea of painting this mechanicum.

 

Can someone give some source or insight/examples of painting (even at the 32mm scale). I'm a bit tired of the silver/red one.

4 hours ago, BolterZorro said:

I'm starting the painting of mechanicum.

I must say that I am uterly disapointed by GW for this mechanicum (on the paint topic): no paint scheme in the book, no paint miniatures in the book, only the poor image of the box used ad nauseum everywhere. 
Except the thursday article, no idea of painting this mechanicum.

 

Can someone give some source or insight/examples of painting (even at the 32mm scale). I'm a bit tired of the silver/red one.

Are you going Loyalist or Traitor? There are definitely some Forge Worlds that sport unique color schemes, such as Ryza, Cyclothrathe and Xana II. 
 

Alternatively, you could always tithe them to your Titan Legio if you have one or are planning on having one. Same with a Knight Household, though I tend to look at Mechanicum more aligned with Forge Worlds (obviously) or Legios. 

Edited by DuskRaider

Wait, is it just me or are there two extra Castellax bodies (torso, uhh… shell?) included on the Automata sprue? I’m currently assembling my first sprue and noticed I’ve got the two bits left and yet there are no other pieces…

 

Edit: never mind, I’m losing my mind. I trimmed the first body off of one sprue and assembled it using the second one… sigh

Edited by DuskRaider
10 hours ago, DuskRaider said:

Edit: never mind, I’m losing my mind. I trimmed the first body off of one sprue and assembled it using the second one… sigh

it happened to me for the vorax and castelax parts: indeed, GW had the GREAT idea of labelling the tiny parts sometimes on the upper side, sometimes on the down side leading of course to cutting the wrong parts because when you cut them, you turn and turn the sprue so you loose the labelling....phhhhh.

Those two (vorax/castellax) where a PITA to build, from cutting to assembling to glueing.

11 hours ago, DuskRaider said:

Are you going Loyalist or Traitor?

I don't care the lore, I'm just looking for colors examples.

I put a single Vorax together last night and decided I wasn’t going to do anymore for a while. They’re infuriating. 
 

Alright, if loyalty isn’t an issue, like I said I would check out the ones I listed as well as perhaps Forge World Metallica, they’re white and red. 

1 hour ago, DuskRaider said:

I put a single Vorax together last night and decided I wasn’t going to do anymore for a while. They’re infuriating. 
 

Alright, if loyalty isn’t an issue, like I said I would check out the ones I listed as well as perhaps Forge World Metallica, they’re white and red. 

 

Yeah not looking forward to putting any more of those together. I have to say, there wasn't a tonne of joy to be found in putting the box together other than maybe the triaros as they went together fine. That said, I can see why the game is tough to get into for someone coming from 28mm. There are unit's I'd tell people to 3d print not for lack of love of the official models but to save time and sanity. There are certainly units I'll want to have printed instead of ever having to build again. I'm glad the models look great but the lengths they have had to go through to avoid undercuts and other quality issues only to then do the same 2 poses for myrmidons was unfortunate. Bit sour to that when we get options it's not much, I liked that each plasma mortar could be modelled open or closed, but wasn't thrilled to find out half my thanatars HAD to be the laser ones. This is again something I can't support only in that it's not good for us players and if they're going to do so many parts for each model, if they can't include the odd option/choice in there it really really only encourages one to 3d print more. 

Just now, Crablezworth said:

 

Yeah not looking forward to putting any more of those together. I have to say, there wasn't a tonne of joy to be found in putting the box together other than maybe the triaros as they went together fine. That said, I can see why the game is tough to get into for someone coming from 28mm. There are unit's I'd tell people to 3d print not for lack of love of the official models but to save time and sanity. There are certainly units I'll want to have printed instead of ever having to build again. I'm glad the models look great but the lengths they have had to go through to avoid undercuts and other quality issues only to then do the same 2 poses for myrmidons was unfortunate. Bit sour to that when we get options it's not much, I liked that each plasma mortar could be modelled open or closed, but wasn't thrilled to find out half my thanatars HAD to be the laser ones. This is again something I can't support only in that it's not good for us players and if they're going to do so many parts for each model, if they can't include the odd option/choice in there it really really only encourages one to 3d print more. 

The good news for me is that I probably won’t need to get anymore of the Automata after this box. The Infantry, however, will be a major investment along with the Stalkers and tanks… whenever they see release. 

OK, we all agree that the castelax and vorax are PITA to assemble.

Let's give some advice to the people who didn't already run in that nightmare: here are my 2 cts to build the tiny guys:

- ALWAYS assemble the leggs BEFORE the arms.
- prepare yourself to be mad. So, don't jump into this if you are already stressed.

- don't try to assemble in one run. It is better to do it in several sessions. Plan to do it in 2 or 3 sessions.

- Allow some time to the minis to solidify: for example, assemble the legs to the bodies, then, the next day, do the upper body (arms etc...). This way, you won't risk your previous task to disassemble because the lower body is already solidified.

- when you're fed up of one kit (vorax?) start another one (castelax?)

- for the castelax, I first assembled the top+weapn, then the day after, the legs (PITA), then 2 days after, the arms (easy)

 

for economical reasons, the little parts have a flat contact (glueing) zone. They could have add some spins for better contatc and easier assembling. Bur zero spins on ALL the sprues.

 

The tanks, as usual, are super easy and fast to assemble with great result.

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