Is it possible to put a smaller decal on top of an applied decal?

[hd3]

Per title. I want to put this white numeral decal on top of the black arrow battle line decal, If possible 

Edited November 25, 2024 by Firedrake Cordova

[LameBeard]

I think something got garbled in the title. But if I understand you right, yes, you can put a decal on top of another to create a compound effect.

 

The danger is that when you put the second one on, you might “reactivate” the first and end up moving it, or even worse, break it up if it’s fragile and you are using a strong solvent. So you could let the first dry and then add a layer of varnish or medium to help fix it before the second one. 

[Grotsmasha]

As Lamebeard said, you'll need to set and secure the first decal before applying the second or the first will move or tear.

[hd3]

16 minutes ago, LameBeard said:

I think something got garbled in the title. But if I understand you right, yes, you can put a decal on top of another to create a compound effect.

 

The danger is that when you put the second one on, you might “reactivate” the first and end up moving it, or even worse, break it up if it’s fragile and you are using a strong solvent. So you could let the first dry and then add a layer of varnish or medium to help fix it before the second one. 

 

 

Ok so apply first decal, let it dry and set, later varnish on top, turn second decal on top of that, correct?

[Chaplain Raeven]

11 minutes ago, hd3 said:

Ok so apply first decal, let it dry and set, later varnish on top, turn second decal on top of that, correct?

Correct. Varnish on top of the last decal as well, locking it in place and tying the two together.

[hd3]

Should I use micro sol /set on the second one as well?

[Karhedron]

4 hours ago, hd3 said:

Should I use micro sol /set on the second one as well?

 

I think this would be a good idea. Also, the varnish between the first and second transfers should ideally be gloss. If you get matting agent between the transfers, it can trap microscopic bubbles of air which causes silvering and makes the decal look separate rather than flush.

[Sky Potato]

Yes, I did this over the weekend, exactly as stated - and as you plan to do, I put a squad number over the top of a unit marking.

 

Gloss varnish, and make sure you let it set for approximately 24 hours. This is really important - it lets the varnish cure and ensures the Micro Set doesn’t destroy the varnish or paint.

Apply first transfer, using Micro Set and Sol as required until you’re happy .

Reapply gloss varnish, again let set for 24 hours.

Apply second transfer, again using Micro Set and Sol.

Reapply gloss varnish, let set for another 24 hours.

Optional - Apply Matt or Satin varnish to taste.

 

Photo attached. The small kink in the circular scout marking is a result of the curvature of the scout shoulder pad not letting the decal attach properly. The camera makes the fold in the decal look way worse than it is.

Edited November 25, 2024 by Sky Potato
Added photos

[Brother Carpenter]

On 11/25/2024 at 9:26 PM, Sky Potato said:

Yes, I did this over the weekend, exactly as stated - and as you plan to do, I put a squad number over the top of a unit marking.

 

Gloss varnish, and make sure you let it set for approximately 24 hours. This is really important - it lets the varnish cure and ensures the Micro Set doesn’t destroy the varnish or paint.

Apply first transfer, using Micro Set and Sol as required until you’re happy .

Reapply gloss varnish, again let set for 24 hours.

Apply second transfer, again using Micro Set and Sol.

Reapply gloss varnish, let set for another 24 hours.

Optional - Apply Matt or Satin varnish to taste.

 

Photo attached. The small kink in the circular scout marking is a result of the curvature of the scout shoulder pad not letting the decal attach properly. The camera makes the fold in the decal look way worse than it is.

I have the same problem with the templar crosses. I make a small cut in the transfer between the crosses so the transfer can slide over itself in stead of folding. I use the same trick with skulls or any other transfer on a round surface. Just make sure you apply the cut on a strategically good spot to about maximum the middle of the transfer and you are good to go, even on solid transfers like skulls or said round scout markings it works and if done correctly and precise you do not notice the cut. Just make sure you be careful, because it is a damaged transfer you are handling and apply a good layer of gloss varnish.

Edited December 4, 2024 by Brother Carpenter