Spray Priming Question

[MoriyaSchism]

I'm trying to prime some miniatures using a can of Wraithbone, but I'm not satisfied with the results. I forgot the proper technique for priming in less than ideal conditions. Is there any way I can get a nice even coat by spraying indoors in such conditions? Right now the temperature is 12 to 15 °C with around 60% humidity.

[Grotsmasha]

Warm the can in a bowl of warm water, and shake the ever living crap out of it, like 1-2mins, flipping the can top and bottom every 15-20secs or so.

You may need to adjust the distance you spray from the model, recommended is 30cm (or arms length).

[N1SB]

Oh man, all these years I've just been doing it wrong and putting the can under my armpit.  Because you do this when it's cold, so you're holding a cold metal can to your core, and it smells like armpit.  Warm water is such a better and more hygienic solution.  That is such a pro-tip, thanks Brother Grostsmasha.  And thanks Brother Moriya for the question to get that pro-tip.

[Firedrake Cordova]

Duncan Rhodes did a video on varnishes, where he recommended doubling the "shaking time" on the can, and spraying on a piece of card first to make sure it was spraying right.

 

I'd add that you may need to stop spraying and re-heat/shake the can more often than when it's warmer.

Edited December 24, 2024 by Firedrake Cordova

[Axineton]

Also be careful indoors if it’s a small room. Don’t wanna asphyxiate yourself which I think is the most important tip.

[MoriyaSchism]

Thanks for all the replies. Some helpful tips.

 

19 hours ago, Grotsmasha said:

Warm the can in a bowl of warm water, and shake the ever living crap out of it, like 1-2mins, flipping the can top and bottom every 15-20secs or so.

You may need to adjust the distance you spray from the model, recommended is 30cm (or arms length).

I did that when I primed initially. I used the warmest water I could get from my boiler and put the can in the bowl for 15 minutes before shaking for 2 minutes. But I think I messed up the distance and burst duration. Not sure how to regulate the amount of spraying I do.

Edited December 24, 2024 by MoriyaSchism

[Grotsmasha]

You'll want to do short, quick passes, starting to one side off the model, finishing off the other side of the model.

Do multiple quick passes, left to right, right to left, top to bottom, bottom to top, rotating the model and repeating these motions.

Once you've done one full pass, inspect the models crevaces for places you may have missed, and target those areas, using the appropriate motion.

[MoriyaSchism]

It's been a while since I posted last time, but I got around to spraying outdoors again. Got more of my old unpainted Khorne Berzerkers to use as priming test models and gave them a coat of Wraithbone, but the weather wasn't ideal. I'm not pleased with the results.

 

 

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Thinking of spraying indoors to see if the results will be better. Any advice would be helpful.

[PeteySödes]

From the pics it looks to me like you maybe just need another coat? I don’t see any fuzzing or pooling but the lighting makes it just look like the coverage is light.

[MoriyaSchism]

4 hours ago, PeteySödes said:

From the pics it looks to me like you maybe just need another coat? I don’t see any fuzzing or pooling but the lighting makes it just look like the coverage is light.

Here's an image without flash. I'm worried that the paint might be on thick in some parts, that it's not smooth and there's signs of bubbles in the paint.

[sbarnby71]

One thing I would say if unless you're relying on the base-coat to enhance the colour of your next layer (white would make red pop a little brighter or if you're using Contrast Paints), your base coat is there to create a slightly rough surface for your actual paints to adhere to (you paint straight to plastic, it's runs off), so the base coat does not need a 100% uniform colour.  If you take that a lot of folks use a black base coat even when they're painting Blood Angels or Ultramarines, the black is not enhancing those colours.

 

I would say keep your base coat nice and thin and don't be too heavy handed with the spray.  Light strokes and be happy to go back and do multiple passes after each has dried.  Don't use the expanding foam method, 1 squirt, well that's not enough, 2, 3, 4 squirts ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh the room is full of foam now!

Edited March 6 by sbarnby71
spelling

[Jukkiz]

i´m quite glad your basecoats turned out that lovely, i´ve had trouble in past with some basecoat sprays that they seem to turn into chalky, coarse and dusty. This is usually caused by not shakign well or long enough and way too warm temps

[LameBeard]

I have had this problem with wraithbone before, but my current Grey Seer is behaving better.

 

I don’t want to go all science on you, but  you only need it warm rather than hot, the important thing is to rewarm in longer spraying session, because in spraying you are reducing pressure inside the can which has a constant volume (hence reducing temperature, Boyle’s Law).

 

The can says two minutes shaking and so if Duncan says double that’s four, and you want to hear that agitator . Just like brushing your teeth, two minutes feels like a lifetime so time it don’t guess it.

 

I would still do it outside if at all possible. Here in the UK we are finally seeing some sun, the damp and cold lift by about 11am and so I’m able to prime again after what has been months-long break.

Edited March 8 by LameBeard