Kaede45 Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 My custom army is underway, but apart from having to buy more paints, I want to get some bits for everything. I want to replace a lot of the Imperium symbols with crosses & other Christian imagery, but of course finding bits of such things is “difficult” to say the least. The alternative (apart from buying my own 3D printer, which I doubt I can afford) would be to mold such things using some form of Green Stuff. I do have a pot of Citadel’s liquid green stuff, but I’m not sure if that can be easily molded (if it even can be), so I have once again come to the Bolter & Chainsword to politely pester you all with my questions: How would I go about molding bits? What kind/brand of molding stuff should I use/look for? Does anyone know anyplace online that sells Christian imagery bits? Am I really as annoying as I think I am? As always, I appreciate any & all help, thank you for your time & God bless! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaxom Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 43 minutes ago, Kaede45 said: How would I go about molding bits? What kind/brand of molding stuff should I use/look for? Does anyone know anyplace online that sells Christian imagery bits? Am I really as annoying as I think I am? There's a technique call press-molding that works really well for icons you want to put on the surface of something else. You can find videos of it online, though most are about replicating whole miniatures and I don't want to tempt fate. Here's an example of something I did with the technique: The usual brand is Oyumaru/Blue-stuff. I think the issue with christian imagery bits is going to be scale. It may be worth checking bits-sellers or making a few "masters" using solid green stuff to then copy. That's what I did to make a Chapter symbol. Master and then copy: No, you are not Kaede45 and Dr_Ruminahui 1 1 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6091944 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Ruminahui Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 (edited) I definitely second what jaxom said, though I haven't successfully done that myself (he obviously has). As well, if your icons/imagery are quite simple (such as simple, protestant style crosses rather than the roman catholic crucifix or other more detailed symbols) thin plasticard may be a suitable option. I haven't tried crosses, but I made serviceable little 8 pointed stars for my chaos cultists out of plasticard - here is a picture with some examples. Edited February 1 by Dr_Ruminahui Kaede45, Firedrake Cordova, MadGamerAK and 1 other 2 1 1 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6091958 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaede45 Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Ok! I’ve gathered thus far that plasticard might be a good material to use & something about blue stuff. The Christian imagery I was thinking about would be simple crosses, possibly some Celtic crosses, maybe even winged crosses & only doing more complicated designs when I feel ready for it. I am still wondering: Would I be able to mold something using the liquid green stuff I have & if so, what should I use to make a mold for it? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6093155 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grotsmasha Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Blue Stiff or Oymaru(sp?) is for making the mold. Simply boil it and firmly press it over whatever you are trying to make a copy of and then allow it to cool and harden. Liquid Greenstuff is really only for gap-filling. For the recasts themselves, traditional GS is usually used by forcing it into the mold. Another option could be some UV cure resin, cured with a UV torch or sunlight exposure. Firedrake Cordova and Kaede45 1 1 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6093160 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firedrake Cordova Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Another option is to use (regular) Greenstuff (aka Kneadatite Putty) for both making the mold and the part (just make sure you let it cure a little before disturbing it). If you do that, it's worth applying a light coat of olive oil to one of the surfaces, as it will help prevent it from sticking. Kaede45 1 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6093240 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarnby71 Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 I've had a lot of practice with press-moulds. I wrote a post about it a while back. One update if I don't use Blu-Stuff anymore as they don't seem to make the 2 part putty anymore, so I use DecorRom Silicone Putty from Amazon. It's the same stuff and my process is still the same. Only difference is the DecorRom is more flexible whereas Blu-Stuff over time and use breaks. Kaede45, Dr_Ruminahui and jaxom 1 1 1 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6093242 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mendi Warrior Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 You might also want to have a look at etched brass elements. GreenStuffWorld (and probably other sources) do sell such things. Here is a link to their "photo etch runes" selection: Etched brass elements Note I haven't used any of these so far. Otherwise, I have used blue stuff for the molds and milliput instead of greenstuff. Firedrake Cordova and Kaede45 1 1 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6093249 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbarnby71 Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 31 minutes ago, Mendi Warrior said: You might also want to have a look at etched brass elements. GreenStuffWorld (and probably other sources) do sell such things. Here is a link to their "photo etch runes" selection: Etched brass elements Note I haven't used any of these so far. Otherwise, I have used blue stuff for the molds and milliput instead of greenstuff. I've had the (dis)pleasure of using these photo etched runes (Norse and Dwarf), now the quality is amazing, to work with, geez they're a pain. They're so small and fiddly to handle even with tiny tweezers, then you have to add super-glue to the backs which I did with a pin dipped into a pool of super glue. If you have the patients, then they can look great, but I'd say for every 1 Rune I got in the right location, I ended up with 3 stuck to the tweezers or my fingers. Like I said my experience are with the Runes which are very thin, Crosses and Symbols look a bit thicker so should be easier to work with. Firedrake Cordova, Kaede45 and Dr_Ruminahui 1 1 1 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6093258 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusted Boltgun Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 I'm also keen to have a go at sculpting and using moulds. For moulds, I'm attempting Liquid Blue Stuff. Master of the Forge The link above has quite a few tutorials and examples of different materials and techniques. I use a Lego baseplate and bricks to form the moulds. I did some press-moulding yesterday using some 2 part silicon for the mould and a 50/50 green stuff and milliput mix. Annoyingly, I haven't any photos to share. My silicone didn't work that well but I'm going to try again with the liquid blue stuff as that was more successful. I would say that sprig moulds are a lot simpler than two -part ones! Dr_Ruminahui 1 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6095031 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminatorinhell Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 I've done it with oyumaru and a mix of green stuff/milliput It takes some getting use to and I mess up a lot of the time. It basically looks like finecast sometimes. But when it works itre really nice and fun. Its important to not overfill the mold, and make sure you get the oyumaru all around the part and carefully plan splits in the mold. Firedrake Cordova and Dr_Ruminahui 2 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/385214-molding-recommendations/#findComment-6095068 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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