I see the red dot and I want to paint it white...

[kabaakaba]

Hello mates, I have problem paint something larger then guardsmen white. Can't get consistent white on flat surface, undercoat is visible even after 5-6 layers. Can any one suggest how to deal with it?

[Grotsmasha]

The easiest way is to start with a white/bone/grey primer colour and work up. It will, however, always take multiple layers and patience. 

The thing to keep in mind too, is that you shouldn't ever be layering in white. It should always be a shade of light grey, or bone, leaving the white for edge highlights only.

[Ironwulf]

Grotsmasha is correct. If you are planning on painting white, but priming black- You are making soooo much more work for yourself.  I'd suggest that at darkest, you start with a neutral gray. Even plain gray generic primer is a good start, if you are light with your coverage. Then, after that's dry, you can layer up white colors; whether it is bone (yellow-ish hue), sky blue (blue-ish hue, similar to Space Wolves), or a true neutral gray. Another approach is to prime white, then apply a "white" contrast paint such as "Apothecary White" as a full-coverage base coat. In these instances, it is easier to give detail  items like boots and guns a quick coat of black or brown, than to build up a good layer of white across the entire miniature.

[Grotsmasha]

I know GW's spray primers aren't the cheapest available, but their quality has always been great for me, providing due care is taken.

For Corax White, this means shaking the ever loving crap out of it for several minutes, flipping the can top to bottom every 30seconds or so. If you're in a colder climates, try warming the can in warm water first too.

I would also spray an old sprue first to make sure the can is ready to go.

Also avoid spraying in direct sunlight, this will significantly reduce the likelihood of a flakey finished caused by the paint partially drying in-between the can and model.

[Firedrake Cordova]

White is a relatively transparent colour (due to the nature of the pigment used).

 

Your best bet is to paint the area with a light grey to get an even coat, and then paint white over the top of that.

 

If you're painting a large area (e.g. a vehicle), then spraying it is probably the best option, if it's one available to you.

[Craig]

Have you tried a sponge instead of a brush? Depending on how large the area is you want to paint you might get a better result.

[Sky Potato]

7 hours ago, Grotsmasha said:

I know GW's spray primers aren't the cheapest available, but their quality has always been great for me, providing due care is taken.

For Corax White, this means shaking the ever loving crap out of it for several minutes, flipping the can top to bottom every 30seconds or so. If you're in a colder climates, try warming the can in warm water first too.

I would also spray an old sprue first to make sure the can is ready to go.

Also avoid spraying in direct sunlight, this will significantly reduce the likelihood of a flakey finished caused by the paint partially drying in-between the can and model.

Corax White was discontinued a couple of years ago- it’s White Scar now.

 

Same points apply though - I always warm the can of White Scar in the kitchen sink using hot water from the tap, shake the can like it owes me money and then spray away. I’ve also found the cans of White Scar behave much better than cans of Corax White used to.

 

For painting white, I prime with White Scar, brush paint Corax White, all over shade with Citadel Soulblight Grey and edge highlight with Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White. I mainly do this for consistency, I’ve already started doing it this way and it’s easier to use Corax White over other colours if I just have a small area to be painted white. I think Soulblight Grey is a heavily underrated shade paint as well.

 

If I were starting a new, white based army from scratch, I’d be tempted to spray White Scar, use an all over coat of Apothecary White contrast before a quick highlight of Bold Titanium White or White Scar.

[kabaakaba]

Thanks guys, all that fancy GW cans unavailable for me so I try equivalent I can find in my eye of terror. I definitely do everything wrong, I don't plan initially paint much white but thought wide white stripes on Valkyrie would be nice and start spilling white over dark blue, and all it's gone meh and ugly. Gonna use white primer initialy

[Firedrake Cordova]

If you're doing stripes, maybe look at Tamiya's masking tape?

[kabaakaba]

13 hours ago, Firedrake Cordova said:

If you're doing stripes, maybe look at Tamiya's masking tape?

I have no issues with drawing straight line ,its more about problems with white is too transparent

[Sky Potato]

If you’ve already started and painted the wings dark blue, I would suggest working your way up to white through the greys.

 

Maybe start with Celestra Grey, then Grey Seer, then Corax white over the blue. Very thin coats of paint needed.
 

And the biggest one I learnt trying to paint yellow over silver a few years ago, don’t confuse thin coats of paint for thinning your paints. Making the paint super runny and slopping it on is not a thin coat of paint.

 

If you’re stripping the paint off and starting again - or if you want a more efficient way to do it with a second model - I’d maybe recommend painting the white first, then taping over what you want to keep white and then painting over with the blue.

Edited July 7 by Sky Potato
Words are hard

[Firedrake Cordova]

7 hours ago, kabaakaba said:

I have no issues with drawing straight line ,its more about problems with white is too transparent

Ah, I misinterpreted what you'd written with "spilling paint"