Basing: Urban Bases

[Blitz Jaeger]

Welcome! I am working on a Wolf Guard Bodyguard Terminator Cadre, but before I show them to you in the next few weeks, Ill show you the bases, when I was doing them I decided to log my progress so you can see how I do it.

 

I do Urban Space Wolves, and urban Tau so I have had some considerable practice making bases, I am going to attempt to show you how to make some interesting ones.

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases%20-%20Materials.JPG

 

First, the materials, here we have some 40mm "Large Rounds" , and some trash, just other model parts, broken junk, plastic tubes, rods, scraps, soldering wire and plastic I beams. Anything will work, choose some large and small things, according to the base, and what type of action the model will be in.

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases-%20Built.JPG

 

Here I have built the bases, I added coarse rail road ballast and sand to look like medium and small chunks of asphalt and rubble, put down your larger chunks of rubble first, and squeeze the small stuff in later. All you do is determine where the model will stand, and build accordingly, leave open areas for models with a shallow stance, and wide stances are good on more cluttered bases, running models need to be placed on top of a large pile or in an open area, so its more believable they are running. For the sand and ballast, I have them mixed in a small box and I simply add Elmers glue where I need it, put in the base and shake the box gently. This makes a natural occuring rubble, I also have bits of small scrap in there and sections of wire, tubing and other small junk so that I get very unique rubble.

 

*Save bullet shells and glass for last, Ill explain when we get there.

 

In this picture from top left to bottom right we have: A street manhole cover, Some rusty industrial equipment, A ruined gothic style building with tiles, A section of street that has cracked badly with wires and pipes and reinforcement bars that have come above ground, and last Some concrete with industrial machine leftovers nearby.

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases%20Paints.JPG

 

Now its painting time, I number my base paints so I never forget what order to go in and dont use the expensive stuff, just on the bases some bulk stuff will work better because you get more and you cant tell a quality difference when drybrushing.

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases%201.JPG

 

Here Ive painted them in color 1, a dark gray/brown. Dont drybrush this first stage, its the base coat, it need to be dark as well, stray away from black, as its not a natural color. I like this earthy tone as it looks like mud, tar, dirt or asphalt depending on the finish. Paint thick and get all the crevaces, though a few showing wont matter.

 

(You may have noticed a 6th base squeezed in, but its a seperate character, hes just in for the same fate base :lol: )

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases%202.JPG

 

Now I dry brush 2, the medium gray, a decent step up from the dark undercoat. Hit the whole base fast and light, dont hover in a spot too long because we just want edges. But this is the heaviest drybrush youll do. Turn the base in your hand as you whisp the brush back and forth over the edges quickly.

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases%203.JPG

 

This is 3, a weird gray/purple, it doesnt belong shade wise, but I like to mix in an odd color so the base isnt too bland in its perfect sequential highlight order, this is just a hint of color and it works well, as you can tell its a medium drybrush , again done fast.

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases%204.JPG

 

The last color of our bulk paints 4, a light gray, stone looking if you will, you can really see the concrete/rubble look coming out now. As with before go fast and lighten the load on the brush, its a light coat, just enough to snag edges and leave the other colors in tact. After lots of experience Id say that faster and whispier but controlled works best. If your brush is getting too wet to drybrush squeegie the water out in a paper towel.

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases%205.JPG

 

Now the regular colors and details come in, I painted the metallic areas Boltgun and then I did a rusty ink wash with chestnut ink mixed with a dab of Blazing Orange on metalic areas, highlight the edges of your "rust" stains by adding more orange to the ink then lastly with orange alone, this looks realistic because objects that rust are growing that rust, its a process that takes time and oxygen mixed with moisture, more exposed areas, where metal is torn and/or not coted in oils or protectants is where rust will grow best, so these areas are exposed to more air and damage and therefore are brigter in color. Also, cheap metals rust faster and heavier, so barb wire is more rusty than say, armor or steel, which is always coated. Rust looks best orange to me, but it comes in many colors.

 

Brass, Copper, Silver and Gold, you should note, do not rust , but do tarnish.

 

Also in this pic youll see I painted the gothic marble tiles black, and added veins of marble with watery light gray.

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases%206.JPG

 

Here I highlighted the metallics with Chainmail, then a tad of Mithril Silver.The concrete areas also have been highlighted with the appropriate gray color, so they stand out from the rubble.

 

Look close, youll see the gothic ruins have recieved a gloss varnish to the marble tiles, and shards of a broken window are now present. I made these with chunks of plastic sheet that can be bought in 3x4 sheets (large!) I know your thinking "But I can use blister packs or clear sheet styrene, which is true but this hobby plastic can be broken like real glass, and thus looks the most realistic IMO. I added a few pieces around teh arch as it was once a window.

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Bases%20Finally.JPG

 

In our final picture, I highlighted the concrete a bit more till I liked it, then I took bleached bone, switched to a larger softer brush, and gently applied an extrmelly light drybrush of this, which in light coats, looks like dust thats settled.

 

I also added brass necklace closures, which are perfect shell casings, that require no painting. The reason I said add bullet shells and glass last is because you dont want there natural texture messed up while your painting! So do them last, so they stay clean and look fresh. I added shells where they would be appropriate to my models on the base. (For instance, some models arent fireing, so less shells, others, like the Assault Cannon Termie, have tons of spent shells while he lays fire down.)

 

Some close up shots:

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Base%204.JPG

 

http://home.cogeco.ca/~jaeger2288/Base%205.JPG

 

Well, I hope you enjoyed reading this as much as I had making it! Perhaps I ahve helped you in some way, perhaps not. If nothing else, you got to see some pictures right? :rolleyes:

 

~Chase

[stahly]

Excellent work, yeah, but how will you place your models on them?

[the great beaver]

totally rules bro. I must thank you for a great tutorial. :rolleyes:

[marcus]

Many thanks for the great tutorial :rolleyes: that will come in handy for improving my bases.

[Blitz Jaeger]

Thanks,

 

Stahly- If you read the first part I explain that you have to plan where the model will be before hand. ^_^

[Toddlich]

Awesome job....I was just about to base some of my IW and looking at urban bases for them.

[Librarian- Melechor]

Thanks Blitz, this is great for all my armies! Superb job! ^_^

[Klintoxicity]

WOW!! Those are excellent!! I must try that out since I play a city fight themed army.

[Blitz Jaeger]

Yes I originally started my wolf army exactly when Codex Cityfight came out and it was so freaking popular that I decided to make full time comitment to that theme, thus ...my unconventional camo wolves, still urban bases are great because nearly any terrain looks good with them, even if it doesnt match. Anyway glad yal liked them! ^_^

[bighatdino]

I think Stahly was actually asking in what way you attach the models to the bases - like, do you pin them, or just glue them? :wacko:

 

Those are definitely lovely looking bases, and have given me some ideas of what to play around with when putting together the Black Templar kill team I'm doing.

[SeanSullivan]

Excellent work, yeah, but how will you place your models on them?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I think he's asking with what "method" you are going to attach them. As in, are you going to pin their feet to the bases or are you going to glue them on etc...

 

 

Nice tutorial, the spent shell casings and broken glass are a great touch! Where do you get those necklace closures?

[Quiet_Destroyer]

What size on those brass necklace closers do you use? Excellent tutorial btw! :wacko:

[Zgar]

Perfect tutorial, thanks! For sure inspired me with some new ideas, since as I am about to do some Deathwatch marines and for a change I wanted to make them on Urban bases... Right tutorial in the right time! :wacko:

 

P.S. The only problem with me is the "real" ammo shells, I don't like use of unpainted metal being used on painted bases/model. Even ehen I use metal tubes, rods etc, I paint them the same way I paint plastics. But that can bu just me.

 

Thanks again for some cool ideas, I am definitely going to salvage that old VCR lying in our living room for "industrial bits"! :P

 

Cheers!

[Lion in the Stars]

Sweet! Thanks, Blitz! My (new) Tau army, as well as my DaemonHunters, are going on Urban bases, and I was having a hard time figuring out what to do for them.

 

Mods, is there a chance that this could be stickied?

[transorD]

Awesome tutorial. I feel inspired to actually try doing some fancy bases like that.

[Obliterator]

Excellent tutorial. Feel free to PM me once this drops from page 2 and I'll move it to the Librarium.

[Scipio]

Great tutorial!

 

I'd like to add my voice to those calling for an explanation of how you attach your minis to the bases...

[Blitz Jaeger]

Thanks again, I wasnt sure how useful it would be but thought Id show you regardless...

 

As to the "how you attach them" question, well, nearly 98% of my models are plastic, so for those types I just use Testors Plastic Cement, it is incredibly strong unless you drop them on a hard floor. I apply the glue to the feet of the model and not to the base, because I hate the shiny glass effect and overguey edges you sometimes see on bases, this way a model will sitck where I want and glue only touches those spots.

 

The only models Ive ever had to pin were Tyranid Hive Tyrants and Carnifexi. And I use a dremel tool for the holes, and make specific notation of the feet in those cases.

 

Otherwise, Ill test fit the model in the building stage, and if I need to add more or remove some rubble I do it then before painting. Ill show you the finished models at some point and youll see each model fits precicly to his given base.

 

The Brass Necklace Closures (actually I get Gold plated brass) are made by Beadalon, and are also refered to as "Crimp Tubes" they are size 2 which means the outer diameter is 1.8 mm and inner diameter is 1.3 mm and they are available in the jewelry departments of larger hobby stores that dont focus on models but rather crafts in general. You should note they come in very small packages of about 80 or so pieces, and they are sometimes expensive because they are all exact in size.

 

As to painting them, I totally agree, I hate leaving anything unpainted, but for these shells they look so cool unpainted that I leave them, plus, its a pain in the butt to try and paint every shell, and if you do you mess up your base or dont get all the shell, so I leave them its much better.

[turelhim vampire]

Amazing Blitz, thanks for a brilliant tutorial. I went out and bought all the stuff you used, I hope to have some done at the weekend. I'll share pics, see what you think.

[shizzleton]

Actually, the plural of Carnifex is Carnifices. It comes from the Latin carnifex which means executioner. Carnifices is unfortunately pronounced like carni-feces. I dont know why I found it important to let you know this little tidbit.

[Mantras]

Can you rehost the images for this one? cheers

[Brother Nihm]

Can you rehost the images for this one? cheers

The original post is from 2005 but seeing as the OP was last online on the 12th of June 2012 - I recommend shooting him a PM.