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The race for Medusa, an army in a month.


Gryphin

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So here's the plan. 1500 points of Deathwing, done in the Angels Sanguine colors. Decided to go ahead and do these, because stripping and repainting my Tau is out of the question. My newbie painter butt used some rather durable basecoat spraypaint on them when I first started painting years ago, and on top of that, the paintjob is rather thick. So stripping them just doesn't work, the Krylon Lacquer I used for the basecoat just doesn't come off. So, instead of buying all new stuff to replace my Tau for a new paint scheme, I'm going to use this as an excuse to do the Deathwing army I've been wanting to do for a while. Gonna try to have them done by the end of June, for my LGS's start of the Medusa campaign. So that gives me 36 days to paint the following:

 

23 Terminators

1 Dreadnought

1 Drop Pod

 

Was planning on doing a really sweet looking Red and SERM (Sky/Earth Real Metals) Gold split scheme, but just no time to really do a decent job on that for all of the army. Have one test fig partially done for that scheme, and I really like it. Might have to go back and redo the black as the SERM Gold after I get them all done and ready for the campaign.

 

After I get the 1500 points done, I plan on adding in 2 more Dreads and 2 more Drop Pods to finish out 1800 points.

 

I figure by putting up the blog, posting WIPs as I go, and maybe getting some feedback from the readers, I can stay on track, and finish this project up.

 

 

 

So here's the very first WIP shot. One of the termie heads, man, this thing was a pain to photograph.

I can hold it in my hand, and go "dang, this looks nice" and then photograph it with my macro settings,

and go "holy crap... I think Ray Charles painted this!" Blowing something that I can fit 2 of on one of my

fingernails up to a 1-2" wide picture on the computer screen is bad, mmkay?

 

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/9/3049/1600/TermHead.jpg

:) Nice termie head there,if i recall OMG is painting up a squad of these chaps for the SpaceHulk AOD

you should check out his post for tips maybe ...but it looks like you got it sorted at the moment :P

 

i will be intently following your progress along the way,

As im doing my own ultra's army for a similar campaign league for Medusa i can relate to this and understand the Equation of time constraint pressure compared to model quality that you don't want to reduce....as Dr Xavier says -"we'll be watching"

good luck.

 

mithril

Your highlighting looks great on that helm. Can't wait to see the whole termie.

 

Also, I have found that Simple Green will remove Krylon paint if you are interested in stripping those models. Just let them soak in it for a few days and take a tooth brush to them.

 

-D

Your highlighting looks great on that helm. Can't wait to see the whole termie.

 

Also, I have found that Simple Green will remove Krylon paint if you are interested in stripping those models. Just let them soak in it for a few days and take a tooth brush to them.

 

-D

 

 

Tried that. Ended up being like trying to scrape wet clay out of carpet, was pretty much the consistency of the paint after 24 hours in Simple Green. Clogged up the toothbrush I was using, stuck to my fingers like wet milliput. Pretty much a lost cause.

 

 

No work done at all today on painting. Was at work from 10am to midnight, so i'm pretty much beat. I'll get after it all some more tommorow morning.

I also agree. The highlighting is pretty much superb. As for the the idea of doing SERM, I say do it on the IC's, as it would make them stand out A LOT. Although, IMHO, a SERM dark grey metal-esque color would not only time them in more, but....just look better, IMHO.

 

Get 'er dun!

 

Master_Aerethos

No, I haven't forgotten about this, or let it fall by the wayside.

 

So here we go... after about a week of not doing a thing because of work commitments, I got some work done on my test fig. only thing that annoys me is the highlights on the gold metallics for the crux and chest wing came out a little harsh in the photo. I'm actually really happy with them in the real world. The end goal here is to have pretty much a solid table top figure, and make the details like the laurels, the skulls, the chest wings, the cruxes just really pop. I'm really happy with the depth of the green in the laurels, they really do just jump out at you with that skull on the black fist.

 

http://i5.tinypic.com/11s2ttx.jpg

Where's me bloody arm?!?

 

Now that I've got this guy down, and figured out how I want to do everything, the rest should fly by on an assembly line. They actually paint up pretty fast, it's the stopping and trying to pick colors. The purple on the purity seal took me just as long to get right as edge highlighting all of the red :P First it would come out too bright, then too sharp, etc. I've also got to pick a color for the bolter casing. With a split scheme, it's hard to pick other colors to go with it, you end up looking like a rainbow I've found. So, on to finishing up the right arm, and the shoulderpads. I think the big Crux on the shoulderpad is gonna end up looking great, the tiny one one of the kneepad ended up pretty good, nothing but more room to highlight on the pad.

 

http://i5.tinypic.com/11s2u5j.jpghttp://i6.tinypic.com/11s2tdh.jpg

 

I'm offically at 30 days left before the first day of the campaign. And I've yet to even come close to deciding on how to base them.

I dont think you will have any problems getting this army in order from what it looks like. So far you are doing a great job!

 

I really like that split scheme, its so simple but so striking all the same. Can you give your recipe for painting this army? I really like it a lot and may think about starting something similar after I finish my pre heresy DG and my DIY...

 

As far as basing goes, I would do something simple as you are short on time; maybe the old "sand, basecoat, drybrush, static grass" would do the trick.

I dont think you will have any problems getting this army in order from what it looks like. So far you are doing a great job!

 

I really like that split scheme, its so simple but so striking all the same. Can you give your recipe for painting this army?

 

Simple stuff for this. The Red is VMC Burnt Cad. Red, and highlighted with VMC Carmine Red (GW Blood Red, but I like the coverage of the VMC better) Black is just Krylon Charcoal Black Primer, with VMC German Luftwaffe Blue for highlighting. The Luft Blue is like a Shadow Grey without quite so much blue in it. Really nice color. Chest Eagles and skulls, is VMC Flat Earth (my new favorite color for basecoating anything that is gonna be bone or yellow, two thin coats and you've got a great basecoat) with VMC Stone Grey, then highlighted up with VMC Pale Sand. Golds are just Tin Bitz, Shining Gold, leaving the Tin Bitz in the cracks, and then Burnished Gold highlights, with a 50/50 Burnished/Mithril mix for the really high points.

 

Really simple stuff, I'm not worrying about feathering up 6-7 layers for my highlights on this army.

:wub: great stuff there indeed, i love the crux on the knee...is it edged in mithril silver or is that the photo :huh:

i think it looks fantastic though,will borrow that for sure.

keep painting

 

mithril

 

Has a slight bit of mithril for the very edges and corners. The photo just really brought it out, it's much more subdued and blended in with the Burnished gold underneath it in meatspace.

Looking pretty good so far :D I may just want to paint up a few of these myself now :P Keep at it! Ill definately be looking forward to some progress :ph34r: As for basing, why not just go with Cityfight bases? Chances are, youre going to be playing A LOT of cityfight games for Medusa V. Just put down some rubble and spare bits, and youre basically done ;)

 

-Kaldoth

 

EDIT: Is there any chance you can give me some water to paint ratios for your colours? If you mixed any colours, paint to paint to water ratios would be appreciated aswell :(

Looking pretty good so far :D I may just want to paint up a few of these myself now :P Keep at it! Ill definately be looking forward to some progress ^_^ As for basing, why not just go with Cityfight bases? Chances are, youre going to be playing A LOT of cityfight games for Medusa V. Just put down some rubble and spare bits, and youre basically done ;)

 

-Kaldoth

 

EDIT: Is there any chance you can give me some water to paint ratios for your colours? If you mixed any colours, paint to paint to water ratios would be appreciated aswell :)

 

 

water to paint.. umm.. some to some more than the water. I try to go for that melted ice cream consitency. There's no hard or fast rules for me on thinning paints, because the Vallejo paints can be a totally different thickness straight out of the bottle than another color. For instance, Vallejo Model Color Black is almost perfectly thinned for my liking straight out of the bottle. Basalt Grey, on the other hand, I have to mix like twice as much water as paint into it. GW paints, I tend to just drop some water in the bottle every now and then, to get the whole thing down to a thinned constiency so that I can just paint out of the bottle, and keep it from drying out at the same time.

 

This is actually the first paint job where I'm doing zero paint mixing. everything is straight color out of the bottle. I listed pretty much all my colors up in a previous post if you want to go over them.

Very nice so far. I may have to steal the colour sheme, it works well.

 

If you had to use GW paints, what ones would you use?

 

for the black

-Chaos Black

-Codex Grey?

-Fortress Grey?

 

for the red

-Red Gore?

-Blood Red?

 

 

The Black is just the Krylon Black Primer. nothing else. if I were to pick something to highlight it with, I'd say a thinned down Shadow Grey, maybe a touch of chaos black or Codex grey to knock down the blue tint to it. For the Red, the darkest GW Red and highlight with Blood Red.(I really don't like the GW reds, they have far too much purple in them for me. One of the reds is pretty much a maroon or wine color, I really don't like it. Can't remember which ones they are right now, I'm not near my paints.)

Ok, so I've spent most of my day off just cleaning and priming for a good solid assembly line job. Got around to doing up a set of shoulderpads, so I figured I'd throw some pics up. I'm beginning to think that the reason NMM is so popular, is that it's far easier to photograph for showing off on the web. the transitions in the highlights for the gold are far smoother in my hand, even under the camera lights they look good. Take a pic of them, and they look all chunky. Especially on the skulls, they look horrible in the pic. Anyway.

 

http://i6.tinypic.com/123v8kl.jpg

 

Gold goes as follows:

 

Basecoat w/ Shining Gold:Purple Ink 4:1, plus a drop of water to thin some more. Thought I'd give Boltman's words of wisdom on color theory a go, and it really did add some nice depth to it, with the blue part of the purple ink. Actual Blue made the gold go all wonky, so purple did the trick.

 

Broad coverage with Shining Gold, thinned 4:1 with Yellow Ink. I like thinning my metallics with inks, it preserves the opacity far more than water does, but still lets the metallics get semi-transparent, which is great for feathering them up. May sound like a contradiction, but it works great.

 

Highlights with Burnished Gold. A while back, I just added a good portion of FFMix to my Burnished Gold pot, it's just nicely thinned. No idea on ratio.

 

Final highlight with 2:1:1 Burnished Gold:Mithril Silver:Yellow Ink. Mithril is like the white of metallics. Great for tweaking your highlight color.

 

Time to go run to the store, and get a couple more cans of primer. Ran out, and still need one more coat on all the other peices to finish priming. Then it's off to the races with the assembly line. Hope to have at least a full squad of 6 done by Saturday afternoon. Really only have about 3 1/2 weeks left.

 

And a Public Service Announcement. Please thin your paints. Saw a really cool paintjob on a set of models today. Great color choices, everything worked well together, great tabletop arms length job. Get closer, and you could see how lumpy and thick the paint was. Really ruined the paintjob. If he had thinned his paints down, and taken the time to put two thinned coats on instead of one thick coat, they would have been really great models. Trying to layer up highlights with unthinned paint just kills paintjobs. So remember, Swishy the Paintbrush says, "Only you can prevent lumpy paintjobs. Learn how to Thin."

looking good :rolleyes:

 

as for stripping your older models - another post thats up today has had similar issues with simple green and managed to get his models stripped using easy off oven cleaner instead

 

linkage

 

 

Easy off oven cleaner is my method of choice, and even it didn't work. I don't know just what the heck has happened to these paints. That krylon lacquer is some tought stuff, especially after it's had a chance to sit there for almost 3 years :blink:

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