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advise on studding plastic marine armour


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thats it folks, i wanna know how to stud the armour on my marines, ala MK5/6 ect

 

i

 

am

 

completely

 

lost

 

 

i seem to remember i saw somehwere i saw some one using some kind of brass pins or stud, that would be great, but i don't know where to find them

There was a way in WD recently that uses PVA glue to make studs. I havent tried it myself so i wouldnt know if it works or not.

 

 

Other ways i guess would be to use plasticard rods, but the downside is trying to manipulate something that small.

Boltman wrote an article about how he made Magmatrax, and he built a little stamp out of a spare plastic sprue (he did it for the jugger's round eyes, but I'm sure it can be adapted w/ a smaller hole).

 

Just drill a hole in the end and use a modelling knife to pare back the plastic until there's a little divit left. Then stamp out little round studs out of greenstuff and stick them on the model.

 

This is purely hypothetical: I haven't done it myself. ;)

If you happen to have some Fantasy skeleton sprues, there's one particular spear that has a TON of little bumps on the haft, just below the spearhead. It's a fairly simple matter to slice them off, they're a great size for studs, and you don't need to worry about moulding glue or putty.

 

Of course, they're STUPID hard to get aligned correctly, as small as they are. Such is the price of wanting miniscule studs on an already-small model. ;)

 

EDIT: The spear I'm talking about is here, on the right, second spear from the top.

I used some pins found at the walmart sewing department. for a buck for 200 pins or so

 

procedure

1) Clip off most of the pin so only a few milimetres of shaft is left below the head

2) drill pilot holes in the marine

3) glue the pin in place

 

Here is an old first attempt:

http://www.pbase.com/templar14/image/25328379.jpg

 

The studding is quite bulky, but that is an issue of taste IMHO

 

Cheers

-t14

Doing rivets just plain sucks =(

 

This is the army Kurgan was talking about: ** Custodes **

and in the Q&A linked at the bottom of that page he explains:

Dave: This question is huge! I made the large rivets on the shoulder pads and leg armor from brass pins found at HobbyTown USA. Tucked away in the model boat building section, these pins were just the right size and easy to work with (at least easier than dressmaking pins...er...nevermind). They were 12-mm Brass Pin-Nails (LAT8108), and they fit the bill nicely. I drilled holes at appropriate points and slipped the trimmed-down studs into place.

 

Oddly, before knowing about this thread, I was looking at that same article in White Dwarf which also includes detailed step by step photos. I was thinking to myself how odd it was that he'd photograph himself with such a long thumbnail. Unless that's a hobby secret power of his. USWD300 p157

 

Edit: I forgot to add... the WalMart pins are generally good for tabletop quality. If you want to do more display oriented pieces then go out of your way to get proper hobby pins. Since the sewing pins are made to be reused and abused they are not made with any consistency in shape or perfection of surface. You can see this in the image above on the Shoulderpad pin above the butt of the Bolt Pistol. You'll either have to spend more time sanding them or get imperfect results. Unless they have better pins at WalMart now than when I tried :P

Ive personally bought some IIRC model railway track pins to use for stuffs. Although they are unfortunately not round headed, it wasnt too bad for the lil bag they came in and the price. Ill have to try and use them and find out just how good (or bad) they are.

@Exquisite Evil - What kind of consistency do you get by that PVA/cocktail stick method, i.e are the dots equally rounded and sized?

 

BTW theres a great pic of LotD with studded armour at GW UK's website under the cursed founding section:

 

http://uk.games-workshop.com/spacemarines/cursed/1/

I used some pins found at the walmart sewing department. for a buck for 200 pins or so

 

procedure

1) Clip off most of the pin so only a few milimetres of pooped is left below the head

2) drill pilot holes in the marine

3) glue the pin in place

 

Here is an old first attempt:

http://www.pbase.com/templar14/image/25328379.jpg

 

The studding is quite bulky, but that is an issue of taste IMHO

 

Cheers

-t14

 

I use this method too... Tried a few different techniques and this was definately the easiest...

 

If the rounded ends of the pin are too big, just look for smaller pins as they usually do come in different sizes...

 

I've tried the whole PVA glue stud idea, I thought it would be easy... I found too many of the studs 'dissappeared' into a small flat spot on the armour as it dried coz they kinda shrunk in the drying process and I found I had to do them like 3 times to get a decent bump on the armour (multiple layers to build them up)...

 

On a side note, the pins themselves aren't gonna be going to waste for me, gonna be using them as the barrels for converted sniper rifles for my scouts using Cadian lasguns as the basis...

If you are REALLY hardcore, check out Grandt Line's resin railroad detailing bits. Of particular note are the cone rivet and bolt head packs. Cones are good for Chaos/Command as they are essentially just little spikes. The bolt heads are better for Orks en masse, but for feral/repaired armor, or Techmarines they can be good.
@Exquisite Evil - What kind of consistency do you get by that PVA/cocktail stick method, i.e are the dots equally rounded and sized?

 

If you take your time - yes, you can get them all the same. if you mess up on one, just scrape it off and go again.

 

Once you Primer the model it makes the PVA a little more durable too

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