Exquisite Evil Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 My one piece of advice to all you aspiring painters is remove the mould lines. Yes I know its a pain, but believe me, you could be the Michael Angelo of conversions or the Rembrant of painting them, but mould lines will make your mini look like crap no matter how good the paintjob or conversions. The easiest way to remove the lines is to do it pre-assembly. take the individual components carefully off the sprue and using a small bladed modeling knife remove the lines. when doing this angle the blade away from the direction your scraping. and gently pull it down the line. if you do it right you should get fine 'scrapings' of plastic coming off - you dont want to gouge your models. A needle file can be used after to smooth out the area, but if you get the motion with the knife right you wont have to. hopefully this is good advice for you all :blink: >>edit: Another piece of advice id give for marines especially is how you assemble and prime. I leave off the backpack, the shoulder pads and the bolter. If Im painting to detail I leave off the helmet and arms too! The only problem is when you come to assembling over paint the glue doesnt bond so well. So when priming with spray get yourself some 'Blutac'. Put it over the areas that will be glued later on and then spray away. Once the primer is fully dried carefully peel off the tac and you have a nice clean surface underneath. If you are a 'messy' painter leave the tac on until your ready to glue. remember though, you dont want alot on there - just enough to cover the future 'joins' if priming by hand just leave the places you want to glue unpainted - but again if your a 'messy' undercoater then use the blutac! EE Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116621 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horuswaspretty Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 Ok, here is the marine that I will be painting for my DIY chapter. The picture isnt so good but I am borrowing a much better camera on friday so I will update it with a better picture then. Also, there are a couple of mold lines ive missed, and he is only assembled with blutac so he looks a little odd. http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r58/horuswaspretty/PA170097.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116639 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venerable Jazzman Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 The one mold line I always have problems with is the side of the pad: no matter how I clip it or cut it it's visible, and it's always on the front of the mini. Any tips from the Masters, while we're at this stage..? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/fatjazzer/bootcamp.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116688 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeothar Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 I used to have trouble with those as well. Here's how I avoid them now: When taking the pads off the sprue, do not twist them off, but cut the sprue off, a little over the shoulderpad. so now there's some sprue still attached to the shoulderpad. Remove this as if you were removing mouldlines: cut them away carefully. Better to do it in two or three steps untill you've almost got it shaved flush with the rim of the pad. Now take your needle file (one with a flat edge, so a square, triangular or flat one) and flie the remaining sprue flush with the pad and you're done; no more little dents in the shoulderpad rims... :unsure: Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116691 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShoeMaker Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 The one mold line I always have problems with is the side of the pad: no matter how I clip it or cut it it's visible, and it's always on the front of the mini. Any tips from the Masters, while we're at this stage..? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/fatjazzer/bootcamp.jpg The way I remove the flash upon the shoulders and most of my models even is to scrape my exacto knife blade across the surface of the area you want to even out. Take the blades length and place it perpendicular to the direction you want to scrape (at a right angle), tilt the blade in the directiony you want to scrape and well, just scrape. To get a good finish its better to do several small scrapes rather than a single forceful one. It helps in evening out bumps after cutting off larger chucks of flash (as in this case) or to fix missalignment issues caused in fabrication off the model. Hope it helps :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116748 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merkava Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 Yes removing the mold lines is one of the most tedious thing involved in moldeling but they can ruin an amazingly painted model. Buy yourself a good set of needle files (aka jewellers files) they come in all types, round, flat, diamond, etc and help you get to ALL the nooks and crannies. Also get a good set of clippers for cutting plastic and a cheaper one for the metal. You'll get a cleaner cut resualting in less massive bumps to file down. When using inks the mold line will block the natural flow of the ink. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116768 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodwraith Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 daeothar: i hope it is ok that i won't have a full pic of my marine up just the legs and torso as i think this will be the easiest way to paint him. Pic up momentarily. Also with the deadlines, just to let you know i am in australia so some deadlines might not be possible for me so is it ok if i put it up the next day? ~EDIT~ Brother Cerberus of the templars resplendent signing up for duty, sah!; http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/bootcamp/AAAcerberus.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/bootcamp/AAAcerberus1.jpg Attenshun! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116828 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exquisite Evil Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Thought id post a note on posing. The poses so far have been pretty good, but for those yet to build.... Think about what your Marine is doing. Is he aiming his bolter, looking for targets, etc... When actually glueing, make sure that the model 'flows' - ie his arms or torso are not at impossible angles. The way the marine is 'looking' will affect his overall look significantly. Bloodwraith mini for example - with no head or arms yet the poses remain open, but the way the torso is positioned naturally looks like the marine wont be aiming his weapon. If I were 'wraith Id either have the bolter pointing at an upward 45 degree angle with the head looking in the direction of the models right foot or have the bolter angled down, with the head looking in the direction of the left foot. I find using the feet to guide the models 'stare' in this way really helps get realistic yet dynamic poses. EE Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116838 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodwraith Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 i was thinking angled down and the head slightly to the left :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116855 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daedalin Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Uhm, daeothar, do we have to have a helmet? ^^;; My mini is bareheaded, and I really don't like the idea of tearing his head off. If you're going to require helmets though, I do have another mini I can use, but he's already primed. Is that okay? If you're really set on a bare head, then go ahead. It'll take more steps along the way to get it right though, which other won't have to take. we might do that towards the end (if the head is still removable) and otherwise, we'll have to start with it. we'll see; if there's more bare heads, we'll just add the stages in there I guess... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116876 Share on other sites More sharing options...
RADU LYKAN Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Sorry guys, have been ill and only have a pc at work Horuswaspretty told me we needed pics of the model, didn’t know he had to be stuck together Wont have a chance to show pics of him stuck together til Thursday. Anyway here is pic of my model(I already removed mold lines) http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/4074/1mc1.th.jpg http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/1149/pic1uc6.th.png am not that great with my camera, but having read a few earlier posts I will use better light sources next time. just click on pic to enlarge. He will be painted in the scheme of my diy chapter which is basically scaly green armour with gold chest eagle, he’s from the second company so gold shoulder pad trim. Have decided on red for his eye lenses. He will have the standard black and boltgun bolter. edited to add pic of colour scheme. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116971 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodwraith Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 oh and forgot to mention colour scheme. DiY chapter which is purple with ice blue trim, eagle and possibly weapon. Will put up pictures of the other bits but they are primed so will have to wait for the next step i imagine. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116985 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horuswaspretty Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 This is my colour scheme, my DIY chapter: http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r58/horuswaspretty/orange.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116987 Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Thompson Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Are those orange and yellow?? If so, then you've made it quite hard on yourself, as neither of those are very easy colours! And I agree full-heartedly on the moldline part; REMOVE THEM!! I know it's a horribly mind-dumbing thing to do, but models with moldlines look terrible! John Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116994 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodwraith Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 here's a graphical representation of what i want my colour scheme to look like. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/mockupcolourscheme.jpg Still deciding though as those colours might not be so beginner friendly. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1116995 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horuswaspretty Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Are those orange and yellow?? If so, then you've made it quite hard on yourself, as neither of those are very easy colours! Yeah, the colour scheme is blazing orange and golden yellow, I know they are hard colours to paint (as I found out with my first test marine) but thats why I want to use my Diy scheme for this, with a little help im sure ill be able to make it look good. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117004 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tue__Kaae Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 mould line removal is a pain. period. but unfortunately a must if you want to get the job done properly. it's very tedious and takes ages. for instance we ran a speed modelling competition a few weeks ago, and there it became apperent that a model can be converdet and GS'ed in about one hour and it takes the same amount of time removing the mouldlines. that's food for thought.. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117088 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Penguin of Death Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Hopefully be able to get photo up, minor internet connection problem at home. Marine will be Space wolf Grey Hunter, pretty standard bits Traditional Shadow grey armour, though I'd like to highlight with a bit of Ice blue in the mix as an experiment. Ice blue on the Pads Possibly Regal Blue, or something a bit darker on the elbow/knee pads and trim Only Blu-tacked at the moment http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b265/richardworthington/DSCF0664_edited-1.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117111 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driseamail Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Here's my mini for my diy chapter, I'll post the chapter colours later. http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/Driseamail/40k/Tac_marine_001a.jpg I figured a bolter (well, bolt pistol) & chainsword would be most appropriate for this exercise. Heh. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117114 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plaguelord Baldric Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Damn, Removing these lines are so hard, and I don't even have a file to smooth it out, so I still have to live with a bit of bumpyness, but I hope that at least will dissappear a bit after Priming. Here ie a little trick for those that don't have a file. 1: Cut a length of sprue about 4 inches long. 2: Using your hobby knife, slowly cut along the edge to shape it into a triangle. You only need to do this for about 1 or 2 inches. 3: Apply superglue liberally along 1 edge of your triangle section and allow to dry. Do this for all three sides of the triangle section of sprue. Then allow about 6 hours or so for the superglue to set thoroughly. 4: Once the superglue has set it should be quite strong. Take the length of sprue and rub the superglued area against a rough surface, concrete, brick or a stone should do, this will give the superglued area a rough texture. 5: Take your length of sprue and use it to smooth down the mould lines. I use to do this a lot before I managed to buy my own file set. It works quite well and you can cut the sprue to fit into quite tight angles as well. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117219 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 ok, so I was gonna do some sort of interesting conversion, but then I thought about it and figured that it would be more appropriate to do the most basic thing I could get. So, here it is: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round1Front.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round1Back.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round1Extras.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117288 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daedalin Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Stupid Games Workshop painter thing won't let me do a proper split scheme, but I think this gets the point across well enough. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y244/Reverin/scheme.gif Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117294 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimson Wyvern Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 You can use this one if it helps. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v374/ebizguy69/Spacemarinebase.png Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117321 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driseamail Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 Right, this is the colour scheme of my diy chapter... http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/Driseamail/40k/DB_scheme_East.jpg The marking on the bottom of the tactical shoulder pad is the squad number. Since my army is celtic/irish themed, I'm using Ogham script to depict squad markings and such, so the marine depicted is from tactical squad 7, from the East Company of the 'Dragons Bane' Space Marine chapter. The right shoulder pad symbol (the gold dragon) is the symbol of the company, and the left hand one (the coiled red dragon) is the chapter symbol. Each of my companys has it's own colours and heraldry on the right shoulder pad, for anyone curious, the different company shoulder pads are shown here... http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/Driseamail/40k/Company_Heraldry.gif Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117327 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Omnius Posted October 18, 2006 Share Posted October 18, 2006 I have begun removing my marine's mold lines. It's a little rougher than I thought. Since everyone else is showing their colours... http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f317/BackroomWorkshop/Mentors/mcolours.jpg I was tempted at first to do a Relictor, as grey/black would hide a multitude of painting sins. But, where would the challenge be in that? If I can do a nice white paint job, now that would be something. ++ Omnius ++ Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/2/#findComment-1117395 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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