B&C Basic Painting Skills Bootcamp

[warwizard_99]

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b77/warwizard_99/DSC00524.jpg

 

I am going for a straight Space Wolf - Grey Hunter. I have already primered him, since I was behind in getting him posted.

[RADU LYKAN]

For the next stage (priming/undercoating) is somebody going to go through our schemes and advise us on best colour?

Am assuming I should paint mine black?

what about those with orange marines or split schemes?

edit

maybe those who have not done so should post a pic of their schemes in their previous posts next to their unpainted marine using gw interactive marine painter

http://uk.games-workshop.com/spacemarines/flash%2Dpainter/1/

this might help those who are helping us

[Silver]

Urk, I didn't quite ealize the popularity of orange for DIY chapters when I drew mine up, but this is what I think I'm gonna shoot for. I'm not too attached to it yet, so any comments or suggestions are gladly welcomed.

 

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round1Scheme.jpg

[Granis]

My Scheme as I said Before, I'm a BA player, so it's just a Blood Angels Death Companymen with a Power fist and bolt pistol, so Of course I'm priming black Al my normal Marines hae their red Basecoat and I don't have the bits to scrouge up another Marine for Painting purposes. I'd make one if I had one :(

[Tue__Kaae]

for priming I'd say black allround. for army painting I'd suggest black exept for white scars, imperial fists and the like, but this is a project to pick up the painting abilities and here white is best.

 

@ Drisemail, that freehand symbols you put up there are quite enthusiastic, don't you think?

 

edit:

@ Granis, just as you say. black's the way to go for you. altho I think it's abit of a shame you're painting a death company marine. at least I think you should paint a normal BA instead..

[Granis]

All my normal Marines have their red Basecoat and I don't have the bits to scrouge up another Marine for Painting purposes. I'd make one if I had one :(

[Tue__Kaae]

you could paint up one marine just for display purposes. if this is turning out to be a great leap for your painting skills, you won't regret it..

[John Thompson]

Also, becouse black uses quite a different way of painting as most other colours and is very hard to photograph well enough to give good commentary...

 

John

[Horuswaspretty]

for priming I'd say black allround. for army painting I'd suggest black exept for white scars, imperial fists and the like, but this is a project to pick up the painting abilities and here white is best.

 

so for orange would I use a white undercoat?

[Obliterator]

for priming I'd say black allround. for army painting I'd suggest black exept for white scars, imperial fists and the like, but this is a project to pick up the painting abilities and here white is best.

 

so for orange would I use a white undercoat?

It all would depend on the sort of orange you're after. For bright orange, I would prime with some white primer. If you want a darker orange, you can use a black primer. You can get stunning colors with both, but for bright colors like orange, yellow and white it's easier to start from a white primer.

[HellChyld]

dont call me crazy but for a richer orange prime with a dark BROWN and for a brighter orange try a Lighter BROWN it helps the color. (I'll edit this with proper GW colors after work)

[Daeothar]

Right, I think it

[NemFX]

I did supply a pic. I can't hotlink images.

 

My bad; I overlooked it. List adjusted...

[Driseamail]

@ Drisemail, that freehand symbols you put up there are quite enthusiastic, don't you think?

 

Oh I agree, they're well beyond my ability to paint at present, so I've bought some transfer paper, and drawn up some transfer sheets with the company symbols and squad markings and such.

 

I've noticed that transfers seem to be frowned upon a little, but I'm quite content to use them until my painting ability improves to a level where I can freehand them, or until I get too old to hold a brush, whichever comes first.

[Granis]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/Clawshrimpy/DCPwrFstBOOTCAMP1-2.jpg

 

Just a quick pic post of moldline removal. for my Colour scheme, it's jsut your basic Blood Angels Death Companyman, except with a powerfist. Dark Angels Green/Snot Green for the eyes, COdex Grey for chest Eagle, bleached bone for chest skull, Boltgun Metal on the Powerfist fingers, for the Powerfist design, Bleached bone for the skull, and Codex Gray for the greek leaf design. for the pistol, Red Gore, with Boltgun metal on the sight, nozzle, and clip.

[John Thompson]

Granis, I take it this picture was done BEFORE mold-line removal..?

As I can still see them everywhere..

[zbo]

Hiya Granis,

 

I had a looked at your model and I've highlighted in red the area where I think there is still some mold line left. I'm not to sure about the fist as it's a little blurry. On his left knee (the right leg in the picture, but his left knee) no can see some plastic hanging off. If you just rub that with your finger it should come off.

 

anyway here is your image again but I've highlighted the flash I can see.

 

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b214/ichar4/DCPwrFstBOOTCAMP1-21copy.jpg

 

~zbo

[Granis]

See, I tried for days and that's the best I can do, this crap will not come off, this is why OI generally ignore mold lines, because I could never get them off, ever.

[Brother Nihm]

Removing mold lines aren't that hard really once you get the hang of it. (it just takes alot of time meh :evil:)

I use a good old fashioned pocket knife.

 

You can see the knife and a sample helmet here

I'm cutting into the helmet itself in the post but, it's the same principle for when removing flash.

In the 7th pic down, you can see where I've been scraping a little.

 

Just take your time and carefully scrape off the excess plastic.

 

I'm sorry that I cannot be of more help, I'd love to show you better pictures but I am at work at the moment.

[Granis]

No matter how much time I take, I can't get them to come off, I can thein them to make them less visible, but I cant seem to outright remove.....No matter how many times I go over, no dice. and if I try to go harder, I either gonna give myself a cut or I might mess up the model. I have 5 small cuts as it is being careful

[Sara]

I was taught that metalics should be the first paint stage (after priming) because they are messy and troublesome.

[Daeothar]

so for orange would I use a white undercoat?

 

For a comparisson between black and white undercoats, look at this picture and then decide whch suits you best. Both received two and/or three thin layers of Blazing Orange at this stage:

 

http://www.xs4all.nl/~daeothar/FieryLions/Pictures/ForumPictures/BlackVsWhiteUndercoat.jpg

[Tue__Kaae]

Granis. everybody else can get the mould lines off, so naturally so can you. if you'd spend as much time removing mouldlines on your marine, as you had explaining that you can't get them off. they'd be gone now. so get to it one more time.

this is meant as a wellmeaning but hard kick in the butt.

 

See, I tried for days and that's the best I can do, this crap will not come off, this is why OI generally ignore mold lines, because I could never get them off, ever.

[NemFX]

Get a standard flip open knife. Do the legs first, then the head, then the arms. It's alot safer than using an e-xacto which I assume you used. An exacto is crap for it, and your more likley to cut yourself, which is what I imagine you did.

[Horuswaspretty]

For a comparisson between black and white undercoats, look at this picture and then decide whch suits you best. Both received two and/or three thin layers of Blazing Orange at this stage:

 

Definately the white undercoat, a much brighter orange. With the undecoat do you use spray or paint? with my test mini I used thinned white and then a couple of layers of orange but it turned out very streaky! What do you think I could be doing wrong?