mario Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 I was taught that metalics should be the first paint stage (after priming) because they are messy and troublesome.It depends on your painting style. Some people do it that way with the messy part being wild drybrushing. But drybrushing can be done with a lot of control. My tip would be to mix two ways of painting so that it works for you. The first one is inside-out painting, meaning that you paint the parts that are deep in some little corners that are harder to reach first. That way you won't need to correct and repaint that often all the places where you stumbled with your brush while trying to hit these secret corners. And the second technique is painting big forst and small later. Painting bigger areas first gives you the big picture for your colour scheme and lets you adjust the colour of the details later (colour perception changes depending in neighbour colours). Another tip: paint clean. Try to apply a basecoat to the area where it should be and not in areas next to it. Just try it, don't force it. That should improve your brush control and lessen the need to repaint areas. Of course you will need to correct these border crossing parts. When you do this depends on your miniature. In the first stages of painting I tend to just leave it rough but as I have more and more of the whole miniature covered I tend to correct right after the damage is done. Just waiting for the colour to dry. At that point the miniature is rather clean and correcting these problems gives me a better focus on finishing it. And a final tip on painting with metallics: After you have painted with metallics change your water supply. Metallic particles will swim in the water and your brush. So when you get some water to thin other paints you get metal particle in your non metallic paint. If you want a really clean coverage just get new water after you have used metallic paints. It doesn't take long but helps with the results. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118309 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obliterator Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 See, I tried for days and that's the best I can do, this crap will not come off, this is why OI generally ignore mold lines, because I could never get them off, ever. If you're doing it right, removing flash for days would result in The Emperor's Striking Stickmen chapter. With the right tools this is still a tedious work, but you ought to see results pretty fast. Here's what I use: From left to right: some bitz, a sprue cutter, a hobby knife and a small file To remove the bitz from the sprue, use either sprue cutters or scissors. If needed, leave a bit of sprue on. Twisting your bit from the sprue can result in damaging the bit, so I would advice against that. I use my trusted sprue cutters. They have a flat side that I can put directly against the model, which results in a very clean cut with not a lot of sprue remaining. Next I take my hobby knife to scrape off the flash. The sharper it is, the better it'll go. Take the model with the flash towards you. Put the knife against the model in a more or less straight angle. Scrape away from you. A portion of the flash should already be gone. Repeat until everything is gone. * disclaimer: hands are not actually mine, I needed my hands to take pictures :blush: * Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118362 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodthirster90 Posted October 20, 2006 Share Posted October 20, 2006 how on Terra did I miss the registration for this? It would have been good for me to get in here and tell me what I'm doing wrong at each stage! If I would be allowed to come in (albeit a little late) I have a few unpainted guys lying around. If not, I'll just watch this thread with interest. Sorry; we're now well underway. However, due to the unexpected popularity of this project, expect new courses to start when this one is finished. You're more than welcome to join up then. :huh: Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118469 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Granis Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Well, the problem is I don't have a file, and I tried the whole "Sharpen some sprue length and put superglue on it, than scratch it against a brick or stone." which didnt work because there are no bricks or stones around here. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118609 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodwraith Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 am i still in this? I've got my model primed at the moment, going to start painting it if that is ok? Rest assured; you're still in. I took it Nephren-Ka has offered to post your pictures for you? However, please stay with they program and follow the stages; we're still at stage 1 at the moment... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118629 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obliterator Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Well, the problem is I don't have a file, and I tried the whole "Sharpen some sprue length and put superglue on it, than scratch it against a brick or stone." which didnt work because there are no bricks or stones around here. You can clean up your models without using a file, if you have a decent hobby knife you're set. I generally only use my file to get the underside of the feet flush, and sometimes to clean up the shoulderpad trim. I don't know who told you about scratching the sprue against a brick or stone, but I don't think it would work even if there were bricks and stones around :lol: ... Seriously, invest in a decent hobby knife like the one in my pics and you won't regret it. If the mini isn't clean to start with, these flaws will only come back to haunt you in later stages. For example, an ink wash is an easy technique to show the detail on your mini, but if there is a mold line in the area it'll stand out like a beard on Miss Universe. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118703 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Granis Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 I try, I have a hobby knife just like in the pictures, and they still won't come off. Well, here's another Picture either way. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/Clawshrimpy/Bootcampmoldlines.jpg I DOn't even see Why I even need to do this, Death Company really don't need ink, and I don't really use Ink anyway because I don't have money to buy ink with anyway. I've spent too much on the army itself, glue, cippers, and X-acto, and paint, to afford fancy stuff like ink and really good knifes and brushes. (I do have brushes, but most are just Reaper or GW.) I also don't like spending weeks on a single model like this, I care about being albe to paint quickly too another reason why I skip mold lines. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118710 Share on other sites More sharing options...
angel robertson Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Ok i am taking part and i have the model built just need some mold line removal! If i have time pictures when i get in from work tonight and if not then tomorrow for sure! He will be a Dark angel tactical marine! AR Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118777 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HellChyld Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 as I told Daeothar on msn yesterday and kurgan explained to him also Bloodwraith is having tech problems with the forum so I will be posting his pics for him till it can be corrected. here is some primed pics he sent of his mini. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/bootcamp/P1010123.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/bootcamp/P1010124.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118883 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barret Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 Ahoy, I'm moving this weekend, so I may be late with the next update depending on how long it takes to reconnect the 'net. If I am, rest assured I'm still in and will update ASAP. Cheers, Barret Not a problem; real lif is more important, so you can submit your pictures when you have the opportunity. If this will take longer than you indicate, let me know through PM though. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118895 Share on other sites More sharing options...
NemFX Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 I don't have base coating stuff.. >.> Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118896 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeothar Posted October 21, 2006 Author Share Posted October 21, 2006 @ NemFX; you don't need anything special. All you need is your mini, water and either black or white paint, depending on your colourscheme of choice. it does not have to be spraypaint, although that does speed up the process somewhat. All you need to do, and this is important for the others as well, is wash your mini with water and a small amount of soap. It does not matter which soap, normal dishwashing liquid or handsoap will suffice. This is an essential step, as you need to remove any mould release agent and traces of sweat and other contaminations from your mini. This because otherwise, your paint might well have trouble attaching to the surfaces, resulting in you undercoat becoming streaky and too thin in places, forcing you to return to the mini and touch up those spots. Also, if your paint does not attach to your mini well, the finished result might easily chip off when you're done. it might even come off after sealing it with varnish and just handling can take paint right off the edges... After you wash the mini, dry it (letting it sit untouched for half an hour after drying it will help to dry even the smallest drops of water in the recesses). Then, you can undercoat it. this simply involves either spraying the mini with a black or white coat. Not too thick; better come back to spray a second or even third thin coat than to drown the details of the mini with too much paint. the other option is to just paint on diluted black or white paint on the mini. Again; thin coats and coming back once or twice to get an even coat is preferable to globbing on the paint and turning your project into Veteran Brother Smik... Thin coats, thin coats, thin coats. I cannot emphasize this enough. So have one more; thin coats! some of the best minis you see out there on CMON or elsewhere can have as many as 20 layers, all very, very thin indeed. it is one of the major secrets to painting well, so take this to heart and begin practicing this now. Water (or commercial dilution fluid) is your friend! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118899 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horuswaspretty Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 I will be undercoating with white paint, how many coats would you suggest I use and how much water should I add to the paint? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118927 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeothar Posted October 21, 2006 Author Share Posted October 21, 2006 No hard and set rule for that really. It all depends on the amount of water you use and the thickness of your brush strokes. Basically, you'll want to make sure there's no more streakiness to your coats e.g. no more plastic shining through. For undercoating, I usually water down my paints to the consistency of milk, maybe a tad thicker. As you will see, this will not cover the gray of the plastic at all in one layer. You'll need two or three (most likely 3) to completely cover. Now for the weird part; watered down paint will dry faster than undiluted paint! So, when undercoating by brush, you will usually be able to put another coat on in about 5 to 10 minutes, especially if you leave the mini to dry under a lamp. If you're particularly careful about coating, you might find that when you've gone round the mini and finished your first layer, that the point you started at has already dried, so you can immediately continue. Best is to wait for a short while though, to let the paint dry completely. I still remember my days painting with enamels; even though one coat always covered, it took 24 hours for it to dry and harden; feel blessed we use acrylic paints nowadays... :) Another thing worth noting, maybe redundant but I thought I'd mention it anyhow; when painting, do not handle the miniature itself. Take hold of the base or pin it in the footsole(s) and clamp the pin into your pinvice, so you won't have to touch the paint you just put on. Tip: I usually use superglue to attach the mini to the top of a soda bottle cap. This I can screw on the bottle (1/2 liter variants) at will, alternating between minis and allowing a more comfortable grip . Your hand holding the mini will not cramp up, start to hurt or get paint all over it and I found it particularly helpful: http://www.xs4all.nl/~daeothar/FieryLions/Pictures/ForumPictures/ImperialFistsHeresyEraSquad/BottledMarines.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118934 Share on other sites More sharing options...
NemFX Posted October 21, 2006 Share Posted October 21, 2006 I've decided to change which model I'm doing. I decided to give you all a model with a pose to catch your attention better. Hope that's okay. The original model had a bolter and an auspex (scenery purpose only) and you'll all like the newer one. here If that's what you want to be working with then that's your business but working with as standard a marine as possible will help improving your painting more than such antics. The emphasis lies with basic painting skills and not goofy conversions... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1118955 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HellChyld Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 I never thought of the bottle caps for bases to paint before. guess old dogs do learn new tricks. That idea seems alot easier then using cork and pins. bloodwraith is wondering when he can start base colors? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119055 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodwraith Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 wow, i can actually post. It feels good to be alive lol. Strange to see you here angel robertson, you are quite a good painter i thought beyond this level. Well i started painting my mini and so far i am annoyed, am i allowed to post up pictures or are only finished products allowed? Having trouble with thin coats and what my paint seems to be doing. It seems to be flowing into recesses and filling them instead of going on in nice smooth coats. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119167 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obliterator Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 Having trouble with thin coats and what my paint seems to be doing. It seems to be flowing into recesses and filling them instead of going on in nice smooth coats. This usually indicates that the paint is too thinned. For GW paints I usually add one drop of water to a few drops of paint (I work on a tile, not straight from the little pot). The consistency you're looking for is the consistency of milk, the point the paint is no longer a 'blob', but flattens itself on the tile. I find GW paints don't require a lot of water to be thinned down, so a trick you can use is use the back of your brush to 'pick up' some clean water and drip it on the paint. Then mix water and paint and see what consistency you reach. If it's still too thick, repeat. TIP: don't mix paint and water with the good side of your brush, you'll ruin it! Always use the back of your brush to mix paint and/or water. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119168 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodwraith Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 am i allowed to post wips? Then you can get some idea. The paint i am using is odd, whether i thin it down or let it be thickish it still goes runny and runs into all the depressions. Help me obi wan you are my only hope? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119181 Share on other sites More sharing options...
angel robertson Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 wow, i can actually post. It feels good to be alive lol. Strange to see you here angel robertson, you are quite a good painter i thought beyond this level. Well i started painting my mini and so far i am annoyed, am i allowed to post up pictures or are only finished products allowed? Having trouble with thin coats and what my paint seems to be doing. It seems to be flowing into recesses and filling them instead of going on in nice smooth coats. What gave you that idea? I can salavge my paint job but if i learnt the basics of highlighting and such i wold look better!! YOu will see what i mean as we go through this! lol. Thank you for compliment though :rolleyes: And i assume this is the perfect place for WIP? AR Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119184 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obliterator Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 am i allowed to post wips? Then you can get some idea. The paint i am using is odd, whether i thin it down or let it be thickish it still goes runny and runs into all the depressions. Help me obi wan you are my only hope? I'd say go ahead and post WIPs in this case, as everybody can learn from this. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119187 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodwraith Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 ok well in this case, here are the WIPs http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/war...mp/P1010160.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/war...mp/P1010161.jpg that's three coats. Any help appreciated. Oh and incase you are wondering it's a 5:1 paint to water ratio. Any input appreciated. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119189 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HellChyld Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 what paints are you useing? do you thin them in ajar or on a palet? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119190 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obliterator Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 :rolleyes: Haven't seen something like that before... It almost looks like the paint in the pot wasn't mixed enough. With paint the actual color tends to sink to the bottom, while the water/oil/whatever tends to collect in the upper half of the pot. Do you stir the pot before you use the paint? If not, I'd strongly suggest so. If you already do, I have no idea what else to tell you :D ... Do you have this problem with all colors you use? Or just the blue? As Neph says, it's a good idea to say what brand of paint you are using. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119204 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodwraith Posted October 22, 2006 Share Posted October 22, 2006 matisse derivan minis, all colours except the red. Thinking about trying GW paints. Palette mixing, Neph. I spend a good full 3-4 mins shaking the bottle everyway i can think of. Had to have them replaced at one stage, my paints froze. Not sure if that helped or hindered but the company replaced them and sent me more. I have absolutely no idea, the blue worked fine on the nightlord i am working on and have been for a while. I have absolutely no idea about this. I am seriously confused and getting very disheartened as if i can't paint dark blue what hope is there for me ever becoming a good painter. That is three coats by the way. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/97137-bc-basic-painting-skills-bootcamp/page/4/#findComment-1119221 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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