B&C Basic Painting Skills Bootcamp

[Daeothar]

Right...

 

You might have noticed I have been less active lately than required, which is due to time consuming real life activities. This cumulate in the next couple of days, as I will be moving house. Emperor willing, the modem and network will fire up at the first try, but you never know...

 

At any rate, I will not be available during the weekend but hope to be up and running again sunday evening (fingers crossed). This means we'll stay with phase 2 for another two days, after which we'll get cracking on the real work you've been waiting for; highlighting and beyond!

 

I will ask some of my fellow moderators to keep an eye on the place and aswer any of your questions that might pop up. I hope you'll understand this (hopefully?) last extention of this phase...

 

@ Barret: That would be a good option, as there really are a couple of ways to go about white. If you do this, you'll simply have to use increasingly lighter shades of grey to come up to straight white at the highest highlights. Those can be quite large, as you're aiming to make it to look white after all. What will be your undercoat though?

 

If it's white, you're good to go; one or two thin coats of Fortress Grey will have you right there. If it's black though, you might want to go over Codex Grey first, as this will make it easier to paint the Fortress Grey and have it covering over black. I'd suggest several (thin of course) coats working up from black, to 50/50 black and Codex Grey, to Codex Grey, to 50/50 Codex Grey and Fortress Grey to Fortress Grey.

 

Which will then be highlighted up to white as mentioned.

[angel robertson]

Thank you for the advice Daeother, i have been practicing on a few rank and file troopers with highlighting so we shall see what happens!

 

AR

[Bloodwraith]

I just have to finish basecoating a few bits that i missed (doh!) just the arms and pads and gun and then i will be ready for stage three. Stage three is what exactly? I am thinking shading or blacklining? Am i wrong?

[Obliterator]

AS you have recently painted a DA marine oblit can i ask how you basecoated them? I have currently done one thin layer of A green which came out really muted, i need a couple more but for reference how did you do it?

 

AR

I basecoated pure DA Green over a black primer. Highlights were done by adding Sunburst Yellow to the DA Green, but that's material for the later steps :lol: .

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/Obliterator/Dark%20Angels/DSC02285.jpg

 

Anybody got any advice for painting white? I was thinking start with Codex Grey basecoat, then work up to pure white from there...

If you want a neutral grey, start from Codex Grey. If you want a blueish tone, you can also start from Space Wolves Grey, like I did for my Apothecary:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v291/Obliterator/WIP/DSC00916.jpg

[Bloodwraith]

so are we onto highlighting yet? Or is there another stage or stages before we get to that step?

[Silver]

ok, so, I've basecoated my marines, and I must say, it was instructive.

 

The first two that I undercoated white brought out the ornage *much* better, in just a couple coats. The black one didn't even come close unfortuantely, even after like, 5 or 6 coats of orange. I've poasted him up here, but I think it'll be the last time, as I'm just going to continue on with the two good looking ones. Unless there is significant outcry to the contrary, of course.

 

So, without much more talking, here's what I have so far. Comments?

 

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round3No1Front.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round3No1Rear.jpg

 

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round3No2Front.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round3No2Rear.jpg

 

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round3No3Front.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b269/ImitationPollack/40k%20Bootcamp/Round3No3Rear.jpg

[Obliterator]

Looks like a nice enough basecoat to me. Definately something you can use to work with. Clean up the shoulder pads and backpack from the last model and you're golden.

[Horuswaspretty]

when are we starting to basecoat the models?

[Obliterator]

when are we starting to basecoat the models?

* looks at previous posts *

 

A week ago? :blush:

[Horuswaspretty]

well thats what im thinking now, but Daeothar keeps saying we are on stage 2, which accoring to his first post which clearly lays out the stages, is undercoating, stage 3 is basecoating, and at no point has he said that we have started stage 3. Someone needs to have a look at the stages and confirm what we are doing so everyone knows.

[NemFX]

Step one: Post picture of mini.

Step two: Undercoat. Get rid of flash. Post picture of mini like that.

Step three: Basecoat. Also known as the basic colour of your trooper.

 

Anyways, that's where we're up to. Matrix will be basecoated by this time tomorrow.

[RADU LYKAN]

pics of my basecoated marine will be up tomorrow(wednesday)

[Horuswaspretty]

well i will try and basecoat my marine tomorrow, but I may not have time.

[Bloodwraith]

ok here is a better picture of my basecoated marine;

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/100_0791.jpg

 

 

the rest of the miniature is also basecoated but not assembled as it will make it harder if i have to assemble it and finish the rest of the steps.

[angel robertson]

What colour is that you have used to basecoat looks real nice!! Good job!

 

AR

[Brother Renn]

Basecoat looks nice and smooth 'Wraith. Keep up the good work.

[RADU LYKAN]

sorry about the dodgy pics, was in a rush due to hectic real life at the mo.

 

front

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/4833/body1ti5.th.jpg

 

 

back

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/6025/bodyback1co9.th.jpg

 

 

kit

http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/2885/kit1vy9.th.jpg

 

 

am aware there are still what looks like mistakes with the black but the belt will be repainted and the eagle and pipes will be metallic which someone said we will be doing later on. Am I the only one who hates seeing their models this close up :P

[Daeothar]

Well, moving house did not go without a hitch obviously. You'll be glad to know I'm all settled now, after a few setbacks though.

 

As for the project; I'm afraid I only just now figured out how I managed to consistently screw up my mentions of the current stages. Turns out I mislabeled stage 2 in my own records and all errors resulted from there. What can I say? Apo's aplenty.

 

So, for the record, I'll repost the schedule, adapted to the relevant stage each time we change stages from now on. I'll also keep changing the list in the first post, for easy reference, as well as the byline of the thread title.

 

Stages:

 

Preparation Stage: Submit picture of bare Marine

 

Stage 1: Remove flashlines and let us know what your colourscheme will be.

 

Stage 2: Undercoating. Either by means of a spraycan or by hand.. Newly discovered flash can be removed and touched up at this stage.

 

Stage 3: Basecoating. Several thin(!) layers need to be applied till the desired colour is nice and deep.

 

Stage 4: Shading. Deep recesses and lines should be painted a darker shade.

 

Stage 5: Highlighting. The major part for most; mix your paints with more and more lighter shades of your colour till the desired lightest highlight has been reached.

 

Stage 6: Metallics. Your bolters, cabling, backpack and studs need attention too.

 

Stage 7: Detailing. Mostly, this involves doing the same as on the armour, but in smaller areas (think pouches, chest eagles, bolters etc). Colour choice can be very important here.

 

Stage 8: Markings. Chapter badges, squad markings, lettering, scrolls etc.

 

Stage 9: Special parts. Perhaps you have given your Marine a powerweapon, then there

[Horuswaspretty]

thanks for clearing up the stage problem. I will have my basecoated mini up 2nite and will be ready to move onto shading.

[Horuswaspretty]

Ok, here are the pictures of my undercoated mini, I have used blazing orange and golden yellow. The basecoat seemed to go on a lot better and looks a lot smoother, i have learnt so much already. :(

 

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r58/horuswaspretty/PB100099.jpg

[Bloodwraith]

AR: it's just several successive coats of liche purple over a black undercoat.

 

I tell you something though, my eyes and hands are not good enough to do shading. The only way i can think to even attempt it is to just black out the area where the shading needs to be and then repaint after it is dry, being careful not to get paint in the recesses. This is where the real fun begins? I've gotten to this stage before and i find it to be the hardest ones for me, what with the shakes and really bad eyesight.

 

Any advice on black lining is appreciated, pics up later of my attempt. :)

[Horuswaspretty]

just thought id let you know that I may not be able to get the shading done by the 15th as I am very busy with uni this week.

 

Also, any suggestions of what colour mix to use to shade blazing orange?

[Obliterator]

Also, any suggestions of what colour mix to use to shade blazing orange?

IMHO anything reddish brown would work. Maybe try Vermin Brown or try to add ing a bit of Dark Flesh in your basecoat color.

[Horuswaspretty]

IMHO anything reddish brown would work. Maybe try Vermin Brown or try to add ing a bit of Dark Flesh in your basecoat color.

 

do you mean vermin brown on its own or mixed in with the orange? Also, as daeothar said we want a 'smooth transition from dark to light', how many different layers do you generally use to achieve this?

[Daeothar]

Clarifying; we're looking to put very dark colours in the deepest recesses right now. The ensueing shading layers on the armourplates themselves we'll tacke in the highlighting stage, as those techniques are very much the same.

 

So dark lines inbetween the armourplates, around the kneepads, inside the rims of the shoulderpads, inside corners of the backpack assembly on the back, plates covering the Marine's behind, around the feet (especially the place where the greaves end and the feet begin) and any and all inside cornerlines you can find. (so, coming from the right in this example, the corner you find when coming up to an 'L' ). Depending on the depth of the shadow and you own taste, you should use a darker or less dark tone for shading (as long as it is darker than your basecoat...)

 

For my orange, I usually use very diluted Vermin Brown for the recesses, using it as an ink. For the very deep stuff, I add some scorched Brown, but very little. This is just my preference, as the darker the recesses, thedeeper they appear. So for panellines, I use straight Vermin Brown.

 

This is @ Bloodwraith too: don't be put off by 'going outside of the lines' here either. Very diluted paint takes some getting used to and spillage can be expected. You can just go over it with your basecolour to clean it up.

 

I have also experimented with darkened Blazing Orange; I added some Bestial Brown to it, but didn't really like the result. It really depends on what you find attractive yourself, colourwise.

 

You can take as a rule (just about ;) ) that slight recesses (overlapping armourplates etc) should be shaded somewhere halfway between black and the basecolour. Dark you say? Yes, but you'll make a transition between the darkest recess and the basecolour anyhow, using ever lighter mixes till you reach the basecolour.

 

As for the question of how many layers you should use; it depends on whether you want to put in the work to do many (great result) or want something a bit quicker (easier on the clock and still very passable upon inspection). I think I use about 2 or 3 layers for shading and another 3 or 4 for highlighting most of the time.

 

For display pieces, it can be up to 10 very thin layers (blending them as well) but that's not expected or even desireable here. After all we'll do basic painting now. we';; aim for a couple down and a couple up relative to the basecoat.