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B&C Basic Painting Skills Bootcamp


Daeothar

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Clarifying; we're looking to put very dark colours in the deepest recesses right now. The ensueing shading layers on the armourplates themselves we'll tacke in the highlighting stage, as those techniques are very much the same.

 

Oh right sorry, didnt realise this was what you meant. This is what I will do next then.

 

I think I use about 2 or 3 layers for shading and another 3 or 4 for highlighting most of the time.

 

You say you use 2 or 3 layers for shading, but do you mean for us to use just one layer at this stage and add the rest at the highlighting stage? or straight to the 2 or 3?

You say you use 2 or 3 layers for shading, but do you mean for us to use just one layer at this stage and add the rest at the highlighting stage? or straight to the 2 or 3?

I generally see the recesses of a mini as a seperate stage; think of it as an extention of the basecoat. Your ensueing shading towards this darker colour will work towards it. It's that shading I usually use 2 or 3 stages for. Colourwise, they'll be right inbetween the colour chosen for the recesses and the basecolour.

 

There are some different ways to accomplish this shading/lining though. One technique is letting the undercoat untouched in the lines and recesses when painting the basecoat. However, this requires just as much attention and care as lining them afterwards, but now you'll have to be careful with each and every layer you have to put on. As it is very hard to follow the very exact line and brushstrokes of your previous layer, you'll have to clean up afterwards too. And having tried this myself as well, I found that the paint, according to Murphies Law, for some reason seemed to want to gather in the very recesses I wanted to stay clear of. ^_^

 

The way I described though, makes it easier to create a consistent line, which you can also more easily clean up (with your shading layers working towards the recess). You can try the other way, but you'll probably find that you'll end up doing the steps I explained anyhow because of paint bleeding in...

I will be shading my marine either tonight or tomorrow. the last one I painted I used dark angels green for the shading/darklining is that suitable or should I mix da green with scaly green and use that? or even scaly green with black? any hints/help is greatly appreciated
I will be shading my marine either tonight or tomorrow. the last one I painted I used dark angels green for the shading/darklining is that suitable or should I mix da green with scaly green and use that? or even scaly green with black? any hints/help is greatly appreciated

 

It depends on what sort of colour you are going for, for more of a green colour use DA green, for more of a blue colour add a dark blue, or if you want a blue/green try adding a little black to the base colour and see what it looks like, if you like it use it. Add lots of water, I used the paint as an ink and that worked well.

Stage 4: Shading. Deep recesses and lines should be painted a darker shade.

I'm not questioning your abitity to teach, but is it not easier to paint a messy shade first, and then the 'base' colour on top?

Either way goes. I usually paint on the shade color as a basecoat, and highlight up from there. However, this is a bit more difficult to maintain a coherent base color as you're going to work with mixes to get a nice smooth color transition. I would suggest using this technique on unique models, while using the technique Daeothar mentioned on the RAF.

Ahoy,

 

Okay, so I've got a couple layers of Fortress Grey on the parts of the armour that are to be white, but I'm not sure how to proceed. I was thinking, a couple layers of 3:1 Skull White:Fortress Grey, leaving the grey in the recesses, and then highlighted with Skull White. Would that work?

 

Here's the so-far pics. They're still not great, as I haven't yet found a good photo location in my new house. Not that I've ever had a great one before. :unsure: Once I'm ready to highlight, I'll go back and clean up the black and the divides between the colours.

 

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/ElcidBarret/Sons%20of%20Malice/TestMarine-PIP2-Front.jpghttp://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y36/ElcidBarret/Sons%20of%20Malice/TestMarine-PIP2-Rear.jpg

 

 

Cheers,

 

Barret

Ahoy,

 

Okay, so I've got a couple layers of Fortress Grey on the parts of the armour that are to be white, but I'm not sure how to proceed. I was thinking, a couple layers of 3:1 Skull White:Fortress Grey, leaving the grey in the recesses, and then highlighted with Skull White. Would that work?

Actually I'd advise against painting the entire to-be-white area fortress grey as that's only making it harder on yourself.. I would have left those parts white and put a thinned down fortress grey (1:1 Fg:water) into the recesses. This can be done quite easilly with a thin (detail) brush. Even if you do get it on some places where you don't want it; it's thin enough to be covered easilly with white again!

 

John

sodding heck, this blacklining business is pretty darn hard. I am using the absolute thinnest brush i can and it goes on really nicely but the black fades almost straight away, how many coats do you normally do when black lining?

 

Personally I find when blacklining that I can afford for the paint to be just a *little* bit thicker than when doing normal coats. This is because you want it to stay in the 'valleys and ridges'. If it's too thin you tend to find capillary action draws it all the way along, which makes it a bit easier, but lessens the coverage.

 

I've got to say Bloodwraith, that so far the pics you've posted are vast improvements so keep practicing and you'll get it right!

sodding heck, this blacklining business is pretty darn hard. I am using the absolute thinnest brush i can and it goes on really nicely but the black fades almost straight away, how many coats do you normally do when black lining?

Mostly only one... But as Kernmist said, you want the paint to be thinned down slightly, not too watery. You can also thin down your Chaos Black paint with Black Ink, thinning the paint, but increasing the pigment.

Hey kernmist, thanks alot, appreciate the help you've provided me so far through my painting shamozzles. Funniest thing to me was all those people going a bad craftsman blames his tools, then i changed my tools and voila. Ahh that explains why i was getting the faded look. Is it ok to have a faded blacklining look or does it have to be crisp? Here is my blacklining efforts so far;

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/bootcamp/100_0821.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/bootcamp/100_0819.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/bootcamp/100_0817.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/warlord_gorbad/bootcamp/100_0820.jpg

I seem to have los a da somewhere! Hadn't realised hat today is the 16th! i will try get the shading done on my marine this afteroon as i am away untill monday evening if not!

 

Is it ok to ink the model? As i am doing a DA standard DA green is to bright for me so i plan to ink the entire model with a mix of green and black ink then begin highlighting from DA straight snot and straight goblin?

 

AR

Don't sweat it on the deadline guys. I think I'll just extend it till saturday, especially for all of those not up to date, as they have even more to do. So; Saturday 18th will be the new deadline, giving everybody some slack... :huh:

 

Keep it up; I see very good results so far! :blush:

Here are the pics of my undercoated mini. I know I'm a bit late with them, but I wan't able to get my mates digicam till today.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/Driseamail/40k/Tac_marine_002.gif

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/Driseamail/40k/tactical_marine_002a.gif

 

I'm working on blacklining atm, and I'm hoping to have it finished by saturday evening.

Hey guys,

 

I really don't know how i am going to do the chest eagle, should i black line it? The only dark blue i have is ink and that might prove to thin. The only other idea i have is to ink wash the whole eagle in the blue in and then paint it again being careful to avoid the recesses.

 

Thoughts? Opinions?

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