Jump to content

Death Guard kill team, Chapter two: Running a slightly elevated temperature


Antarius

75 views

I was actually thinking this might be the time when I'd really buckle down and figure oil paints out, but I was not quite certain where to start and if it'd be a good idea to have more stuff done before I started washing.
So, I chickened out and kept going on some other stuff to postpone my decision, mainly the leather straps, wood and brass trim/details and here's where we ended up:

image.thumb.jpeg.547f8b20428d5bc5d91897c920fe17b6.jpeg

Which is... Pretty ok, I guess? they suffer a bit from being at the stage where nothing really looks very good, so it's a slightly dangerous place to leave them, as it's going to take a bit of effort to pick'em up again. But I feel pretty confident that I'll get around to doing some more work on them either tomorrow or the day after.

I've basically just smeared contrast paint on them at this point (apart from the trim which is Balthasar Gold mixed with Wyldwood contrast, just to make it flow a bit more), I wasn't quite sure about the green, as otoh, I felt a bit of vibrancy would be nice, but otoh, it might end up too cartoony if I'm not careful - especially when I start doing all the little tentacles and nurglings and so on. But I'm not too bothered, as I can always tone it down again, should the need arise.

"Not being too bothered" is absolutely the best piece of hobby advice I can give anyone, btw.
All my work today, except for possibly the metal trim, has been of the "I'm not bothered with being super neat" variety and I just always find it works out best that way. Whenever I try to paint too neat, I just end up making mistakes and being unhappy with my work and I've never actually made any mistakes due to sloppiness that couldn't be fixed at a later stage. If I get out of the habit of painting, however, I tend to build an unreasonable level of ambition while my skill degrades, so the best thing to do is always just to crack on, which I really need to remember this fall.
 

Apart from the final result, there's a few other things I did today that might be interesting to anyone doing Heresyish colour scheme DG:

image.thumb.jpeg.d0d7573a201ca9dde7ec3f61db48502b.jpeg

I'm sort of using the Terminator dude as a canvas for weird experiments, because: 
a) he looks different than the others anyway, so any variations won't be super noticeable

and
b) the good thing about this sort of minis is that any weird colour variations can easily be disguised as weathering/random grossness


What you see on his leg is just a light coating of Reikland Fleshshade, which I actually yhink works quite well for giving it that worn, slightly warm tone. If I hadn't promised myself I'd do some oil stuff, I'd be tempted to just pour that all over them all and I think the armour'd be pretty fine, to be honest. But I do wanna get around to actually making oil paints work, so...
 

I also tried an experiment were I just diluted the Snakebite Leather contrast I was using with some water and smeared it all over the power armour on one of the power armour marines (I'll post a pic in a comment, as I can't attach more to this post or I'll be over the limit...), on the off chance that it might save me the oil work, but it didn't really work as the contrast got weirdly glossy, so I just quickly went back over him with Pale Sand, which, again is sort of the genius of this type of paintjob.

Edited by Antarius

5 Comments


Recommended Comments

And here's the less than perfect shading (just using Snakebite Leather and water; might've turned out better with contrast medium...). It doesn't look quite as bad in this pic as in real life, but again, the beauty of painting plague marines is that another splotchy coat of brownish goop isn't really gonna hurt, at the end of the day...

image.thumb.jpeg.f41f8bffca76290e74bdfdfbd4c788f3.jpeg

Link to comment

Nice. I like the fact you are going for the 30k Death Guard colour scheme instead of the standard green. 
 

One question - if you use oils is there a chance the acrylic paint you’ve already used can get screwed up? Only I can remember painting a bathroom once and all the paint cracking, and being told it was because whoever decorated it previously had used an oil paint.

Link to comment
2 hours ago, TheArtilleryman said:

Nice. I like the fact you are going for the 30k Death Guard colour scheme instead of the standard green. 
 

One question - if you use oils is there a chance the acrylic paint you’ve already used can get screwed up? Only I can remember painting a bathroom once and all the paint cracking, and being told it was because whoever decorated it previously had used an oil paint.

Well, in theory, oils and acrylics (and the substances that are used to dissolve/dilute them) don’t react chemically with each other at all. In practice, though, there’s definitely the potential for “mechanically” damaging the layers below, when you apply and interact with the other layers (such as when rubbing away the oil paints), but the solvent used to make an oil wash (for example) shouldn’t dissolve the acrylics or anything like that.

 

From what I can tell, people don’t quite agree on whether you need to varnish between the different steps, but it seems to me like the people who don’t varnish don’t have worse results than the people who do, so just going by that, varnish doesn’t appear to be necessary (although gloss varnish would certainly make the oil wash flow more smoothly into the recesses). I’m basically just going to play around a bit and see what happens.

But, remember, I’m very much a beginner with oils, so please don’t take my words on the subject as gospel or anything :smile:

Link to comment
20 minutes ago, Antarius said:

Well, in theory, oils and acrylics (and the substances that are used to dissolve/dilute them) don’t react chemically with each other at all. In practice, though, there’s definitely the potential for “mechanically” damaging the layers below, when you apply and interact with the other layers (such as when rubbing away the oil paints), but the solvent used to make an oil wash (for example) shouldn’t dissolve the acrylics or anything like that.

 

From what I can tell, people don’t quite agree on whether you need to varnish between the different steps, but it seems to me like the people who don’t varnish don’t have worse results than the people who do, so just going by that, varnish doesn’t appear to be necessary (although gloss varnish would certainly make the oil wash flow more smoothly into the recesses). I’m basically just going to play around a bit and see what happens.

But, remember, I’m very much a beginner with oils, so please don’t take my words on the subject as gospel or anything :smile:


Thanks for the info, really interesting.

 

Don’t worry, I won’t be taking the advice, even though it sounds perfectly right. I have a lot of memories of painting aeroplanes as a kid with my dad using Humbrol oils, and I don’t want to have to go anywhere near turpentine again! Will definitely be interested to see how you get on though, if you do decide to go down that route.

 

 

Link to comment
11 hours ago, TheArtilleryman said:


Thanks for the info, really interesting.

 

Don’t worry, I won’t be taking the advice, even though it sounds perfectly right. I have a lot of memories of painting aeroplanes as a kid with my dad using Humbrol oils, and I don’t want to have to go anywhere near turpentine again! Will definitely be interested to see how you get on though, if you do decide to go down that route.

 

 

You're very welcome. I've been eyeing oil paints for a long time and read/watched quite a bit about them, so I have lots of info but little practical experience. I've only used it a tiny bit on some ghouls and on my Great Unclean One, but in both cases I think I actually didn't use any thinners but just used tiny amounts of paint that I wiped away manually. It does seem to be a medium with great possibilities, but those youtubers make it seem almost like magic, which it probably isn't. Still, it's a tool I'd like to be able to use.

Like you, I'm also not very keen on the thinners, because even the odourless ones are still just as toxic (so I guess you could argue the smelly ones are actually a bit better for you, since you don't run the risk of forgetting that you're sitting in toxic fumes). But I think with the amounts involved, if I just work in a well-ventilated room and place the minis somewhere else while they dry it should be ok.

Edited by Antarius
Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.