Super Heavy Land Raider Exterminus Project

[Firenze]

hee hee!! Its coming together!!! I want it now...

[Captain Mick]

Looks great. Good job :P!!!!!

[Shortsonfire79]

Looking good! I wish I had the extra money and time to splurge and get the extra armor too. Looks SO GOOD!!!

[DogmaRaider]

Thank you very much everyone for your support! Time for a monster post! I worked Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday nights and have a ton of stuff to report on.

 

To begin with, I cut up and composed the engine. My initial design of the engine works along the premise that it would be significantly but not over larger than the existing Land Raider. Current Land Raiders have four exhaust stacks but given the size of the Exterminus and the need for increase engine power and width of the fuselage, I drew up a design that calls for six exhaust stacks.

 

Let's start with the back panel piece of the engine assembly. In the next two paragraphs, when I say left and right sides, I'm looking from a perspective of standing at the rear of the Exterminus look back toward the engine.

 

I started by cutting a single left and right stack off each engine piece. To start off easy, I cut down through between the stacks first. I then continued and cut into the main engine cowling but only to mark a good starting place where the start of the main cut will be. I then switched to the miter box to ensure the cut was straight.

 

Engine Construction - Back Panel - Cutting in Progress

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1292-2/engineconstruction-backpanel-cuttinginprogress-2008-11-13.png

 

For the start of the cut on the bottom of the engine, if you look near the bottom pipes of the stacks, you'll see a square notch cut out of the engine cowling. For the cut of the left side piece, I aligned the saw with the right edge of the notch and conversely for the right side piece I used the left side edge of the notch. That particular edge of the notch and the joint placement of the two engine stacks that we're bisecting makes a very nice straight cut. You can see the finished result of the cut below along with the very nice close-up of the joined pieces.

 

Engine Construction - Back Panel - After Cutting and Final Result

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1291-2/engineconstruction-backpanel-aftercuttingandfinalresult-2008-11-13.png

 

Now that I've split the back panel pieces of the engine, I need to turn my attention to the front engine panel. This is the engine panel that mounts into the sides of the Land Raider. Just as I did before, I split the two joined stacks at the top first cutting a little bit below the stack level to start my main cut. As this piece is too big for the miter box, I clamped it to the edge of my desk to continue cutting.

 

Engine Construction - Front Panel - Cutting in Progress

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1293-2/engineconstruction-frontpanel-cuttinginprogress-2008-11-13.png

 

To make sure the cut lines up correctly on both pieces, I placed the back panel piece on the front panel piece and lined my saw up directly against the freshly cut edge of the back piece. I think drew my saw back which marked a line on the front panel piece itself. Taking off the back panel piece revealed the line which I then cut along with my saw straight through. Unfortunately I forgot to snap a picture of how I actually determined the position of the cut but think of it as using the back panel pieces you just cut as a straight edge to draw a line of the front panel pieces.

 

The end result of all this are four matched pieces that fit together perfectly with very nice clean seams.

 

Engine Construction - Front Panel - Final Result

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1294-2/engineconstruction-frontpanel-finalresult-2008-11-13.png

[DogmaRaider]

Mock Up - Engine Detail

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1299-2/mockup-enginedetail-2008-11-13.png

 

You can see the results of the engine above when I add it to my mock up Exterminus. Because I've cut the engine, I've also committed to a fixed size for the width of the Exterminus. One of the critical numbers you want to remember is 74 mm. That's complete width, including the tabs that fit inside the floor guide rails, of a section of Land Raider Exterminus flooring.

 

Now we're ready to cut up the flooring. Luckily this actually quite easy given that you only have two panels of flooring. Now one panel isn't enough to cover the width of the Exterminus hull but cutting them and combining them together do. Since I'm such a nice guy, I've already figured out the math for you.

 

First we'll be cutting four total pieces; two from each floor plate. For the front pieces near the assault ramp, the dimensions should be 68 mm x 37 mm. For the rear pieces next to the engine the dimensions are 40 mm x 37 mm. The width of 37 mm is dictated to us because of the width of the engine assembly; 37 twice is 74. Be sure to include any of the tabs and not just the visible flooring. You can see the result of the cutting below.

 

Floor Plate - After Cutting

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1297-2/floorplate-fourcornersaftercutting-2008-11-13.png

 

Now that I have the end caps of the flooring, let's create the sub-flooring to connect the two. Obviously these floor pieces don't comprise the total length of the flooring required so we have to produce a mid-flooring piece to bridge the two. In turning over the pieces of flooring, one can observe a inset lip. We can use this lip to assist us in bridging the pieces.

 

Floor Plate - Inset Lip

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1298-2/floorplate-insetlip-2008-11-13.png

 

Using a 1 mm thick plasticard sheet, cut a rectangle 69 mm x 79 mm. You'll find that the 69 mm edge fits nicely into the inset lip area of both ends. Combining all of the floor pieces and this bridging piece yields the following.

 

Floor Plate - All Four Pieces with Bridging

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1296-2/floorplate-allfourpieceswithbridging-2008-11-13.png

 

You may have noticed a rather large dip in the flooring because the bridging piece is not level with the remainder of the flooring. We'll come back to this piece in at a later time and correct this issue with some diamond place plasticard.

 

Tomorrow I'll continue building up the core by finishing up the floor and starting the assault ramp. As always questions and comments are always welcome!

[Shortsonfire79]

ARURURGPOGHGGGGG

 

You used a meter box, you cheater. I love the way you did the floor, if I do a second one (call me crazy, like you) I'll do it like that, (But you know, the plasticard is a bit too small. Not wide enough (Fyi))

 

I still think that at 74mm, the front hatch won't fit... I think its 61mm, not 64mm.. Good luck.

[FishSpit]

this whole thing kinda reminds me of the Landkreuzer P 1500, an old design for a nazi tank that never got used becasue it was too huge to be useful

But thats another project all together

[karn888]

this whole thing kinda reminds me of the Landkreuzer P 1500, an old design for a nazi tank that never got used becasue it was too huge to be useful

But thats another project all together

it also never got used because the specs were near impossible to achieve, and the Germans simply did not have the resources to build one,

on the topic of the land raider its looking grate, may i suggest possibly using the forge world PRE-HERESY STYLE LAND RAIDER sponsons

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/acatalog/mk2b.jpg

i think thay would add to the overall effect of it being a super tank

[Ein Windir]

Sweet... "My Tank Is Fight". This is going to look awesome when done. I really like how the engines turned out.

[DogmaRaider]

Ok let's finish up the flooring. Remaining is adding in the side rails that will provide support and gap filling on the sides and the diamond plate on the top. For the rails I've found that 1 mm x 2.5 mm x 75.5 mm plasticard strips worked perfectly. For the diamond place plasticard on the top (I used Plastruct 91687 HO Scale 1:100 Diamond Plate) I cut out a piece of 71 mm x 75.5 mm. You can see the individual pieces and the final result below.

 

Floor Plate - Individual Pieces, Diamond Plate, Side Rails and Final Result

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1302-2/floorplate-individualpieces-diamondplate-siderailsandfinalresult-2008-11-15.png

 

This completes the floor plate. For now we'll set it aside and create the front assault ramps. Now previously I cut did a mock up of the Exterminus experimenting. You can see below that I used the full both front door pieces. I didn't like this look as to me it makes the Exterminus entirely too wide though in the future it would make a possible basis for a vehicle landing craft.....

 

Mock Up - Previous Assault Ramp Door Width Preview

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1303-2/mockup-previousassaultrampdoorwidthpreview-2008-11-13.png

 

Previously I looked into a few different designs. When I was doing my thinking I had to take into account both the assault ramp and the rear engine as one directly correlates to the other in terms of width. After some rough drawings, I came up with an assault ramp design based around a door with five full teeth. This design also works out perfectly with the rear engine and also gives the Exterminus enough width to make it look logical and not overly wide.

 

To cut the assault ramps, I turned again to my miter box which is now one of my new best friends. For the top part of the assault ramp, I found that splitting the third tooth from the left and right of top assault ramp piece respectively. Each tooth itself is 6 mm wide including the inclines so measuring and marking 3 mm from either side is no problem. When your done, each top assault ramp piece should be approximately 30.5 mm wide not counting the rods used to allow it to rotate. Total width of the top and bottom assault ramps should be 71 mm.

 

Assault Ramp - Bottom - Cutting In Progress

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1300-2/assaultramp-bottom-cuttinginprogress-2008-11-13.png

 

The bottom assault ramp is slightly different. Measuring 30.5 mm from either edge shows us that the cut will be approximately at the inclined point of the third tooth instead of the middle. After cutting both pieces the center tooth will be replaced by point instead. You can see the final result of cutting below.

 

Assault Ramp - Final Result

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1301-2/assaultramp-finalresult-2008-11-13.png

 

Now I do have a set of Imperial Eagle and Terminator Honor top assault doors. I ran through the plastic doors provided in the Land Raider kit as a dry run. I don't intend to cut the Forgeworld door at all but instead build around them. I'm looking into a way to build around them right now.

 

On Sunday I should be able to get a few items done and perhaps show a mock up of the floor with the engine and the assault ramps. There's actually not much left except the tunnels and a few miscellaneous interior items before I can start gluing up all the major assemblies. With some luck by next weekend I may be ready to proceed with designing and building the removable top. Stay tuned.. same bat time... same bat channel.

 

As always comments and suggestions are always welcome. Especially if anyone has any ideas about using these Forgeworld assault doors.

[Captain Mick]

Nice update again cant wait to see the next one :D .

[bigmackey]

awsome........ i want a big tank too :D

[DogmaRaider]

Captain Mick & bigmackey: Thanks!

 

I modified the previous posts to make the thread more modem user friendly. If you want to see the larger images, simply click on the smaller ones.

[Innus Bade 9]

This is an awsome project you have started and I am working on plans for my own version for my Iron Warriors. I love the work you are doing it takes time but don't take the shortcuts to get it done faster.

[DogmaRaider]

Innus Bade 9: Awesome... Don't worry I'm definitely taking my time. I have learned through hard, painful, monetarily costly experience not to rush. Have no fear in this regard. ;)

 

I've been doing some thinking about the overall design and version without making the tunnels for the side doors is possible and probably is easier in the long run. Instead of making the inside a long continuous rectangle, you could think of it as an elongated widen Land Raider but with alcoves where the central external doors are. It would be much easier and would cut the complexity and construction time. I'll be giving this method a try when I move on to the Chaos Tzeentch Land Raider Exterminus. For now I'll continue on with the tunneled version.

 

Here's a UPDATED ascii rendering... these are so awesome....

 

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I don't know who mentioned it before but a bike squadron carrier variant would be awesome as well and would probably work well with this configuration.

[Innus Bade 9]

I will be starting my land raider in january 09. I have to work alot during the holidays. Anyway I am calling mine a DOOMBRINGER it will be a troop transport for the Doombringer Annialation force. If anyone has opinions of the weapon options I'm all ears. I wanted to mount something like the repressor top on the Land Raider to bulk it up a little more.http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/repressor1.jpg

 

With the size of the LR Exterminus I may need two repressor kits. I plan to do a full interior job as well and love your idea to space out the tunnel a little more.

[Shortsonfire79]

You're probably better off making the Repressor (which I assume is the extended top, since you posted a back view) out of plasticard, because that thing is FW, which equals more money, and you might end up needing 3+. This thing is. 9 1/2 inches long...A Rhino is 4 1/2, and that box looks like its a little more than half the length, 2 1/2... =-D Good luck =-D

 

Oh, and Dogma, I bought the square plasticard, cut it to fit..and the community says it sucks. =-P SO I'll use the piece I cut as a template for a normal piece of plasticard.

[DogmaRaider]

Man no love for the square reactive armor... oh well, I guess its in the eye of beholder I guess.

 

I also would recommend that you go the plasticard route if you can Innus Bade 9 if you don't need the other parts. You'll have to look it over but you'll definitely save money on the plasticard option. I myself have bought one of the Repressor kits and they're pretty good. The only item that you would have issue reproducing may be turret but certainly not beyond impossible by any stretch.

 

Another thing that I think someone mentioned this earlier in the thread but put part a Rhino on the top part of the Exterminus. This would create the pill box like top that you may be looking for.

 

The more I think about it, the more I like increased space inside that the alcove design of the LRE provides. It makes the build easier too. I haven't glued anything yet here so I might switch in medias res. After I get this assault door complete, I'm going to give it serious consideration.

[DogmaRaider]

Happy Thanksgiving! Now its time for an update. When I cutting the assault doors I must've been working on two hours sleep because I made the same error on both doors. The cuts on both top and bottom doors, for some reason I made them short. I found this out when I was mocking up the Exterminus.

 

For the bottom assault door, I added a piece of 2.0 mm x 4.0 mm plasticard. If notice on the back of the bottom assault doors, There are indents for the teeth of the top assault door. To preserve this, I cut out a 2.0 mm section of the 2.0 mm x 4.0 mm plasticard and replace it with a 1 mm thick plasticard piece. With the plasticard in the middle, this brings the total width of the door to 65.0 mm not including the rods use to allow it to turn. Actually I'm quite pleased with how it came out.

 

Assault Door - Bottom - Construction and Final

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1336-4/assaultdoor-bottom-constructionandfinal-2008-11-27.png

 

Moving back to the top assault door, the problem with using the Forgeworld door still remained. To work in the Forgeworld door, I added plasticard extensions to existing plastic door. Just as the bottom assault door, this top assault door is also 65.0 mm wide.

 

In retrospect I don't consider what I did to the bottom a failure. In a way it helped me because what I didn't realize until now is that the teeth of the top assault Forgeworld doors and those indents on the backside of the bottom assault doors didn't line up. To correct this problem, I cut a strip of plasticard and made my own teeth out of 2.0 mm x 2.0 mm.

 

Assault Door - Top - Final

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1356-4/assaultdoor-top-final-2008-11-26.png

 

Added the Forgeworld top and bottom assault doors to the mock up, its really starting to look like something.

 

Mock Up with Front Doors

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1348-4/mockup-withfrontdoor-2008-11-26.png

 

The next challenge will be constructing a good looking front armor plate (where the assault cannon turret would sit) from all the pieces that I have lying around. I've started to do some thinking and I want to try and combine the Prometheus kits. There are some interesting bits and pieces on the front that I want to incorporate into the design.

 

Front Armor Panel - Ideas and Thoughts

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1344-5/frontarmorpanel-ideasandthoughts-2008-11-27.png

 

One item in particular that I have in mind is using both headlight pieces. Think those set on the sides with the turret sharing the middle with what I'll call the targeting optics on the Prometheus kit front would look pretty good. What ideas do you guys have for the front of the Exterminus?

 

I'm definitely liking how this is coming together. As always any questions and comments are always welcome! Have a Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

[DogmaRaider]

Moving right along, I started on the main front armor panel. To start off, I did a thin cardboard mock-up of the front panel. I just used part of a Quaker Oats Snack Bar box.

 

Mock Up – Front Armor Panel with Top Assault Door

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1385-4/mockup-frontarmorpanelwithtopassaultdoor-2008-11-30.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1387-...-2008-11-30.png

 

In the picture above moving left to right the widths of the first plastic piece are 26.5 mm, the first cardboard piece is 11 mm, the next plastic piece is 26 mm and the final cardboard piece is 10.5 mm. This configuration maintains the 74 mm total width of the engine piece that we manufacturer earlier and keeps the LRE square on all four corners. This is very important as being off on any of the measurements means your LRE central core is going to be crooked causing more headaches than it already is!

 

You can use the configuration above to create your main front armor panel without any problems. However as with any design, before I started cutting my first piece of plasticard, I changed my design. One of the main considerations was having both optical hoods (for lack of a better name) on either side of the armor piece. If you look at a regular Land Raider, the optical hood that I'm talking about if found on the left side of the main front armor panel.

 

Now I have two different types of these optical hoods. The first type is the standard one found on the front of the Land Raider now. The second one is the more detailed one that exists on the front armor panel of the Prometheus Land Raider Kit from Forgeworld. I love the extra detail on things and have decided to put two of these optical hoods on my LRE. Each optical hood will flank the main front armor panel on either side with the turret cut-out offset to the right (when looking at the panel from the front) and perhaps one other small piece of detail to the left of the turret cut-out. This modification required me to change the widths of the plasticard fill-in pieces to 8 mm and 13.5 mm respectively with the larger of the pieces being placed to the right.

 

This configuration will cause some problems with the hinge positions so I'll have to cut out and move those as need but it shouldn't be too much extra work. To start off, I cut out and replaced the hinge cover closest to the turret cut-out with plasticard. I preserved the hinge cover as I'll be using it later.

 

Right Front Armor Panel – Hinge Cover Cut Out

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1395-4/rightfrontarmorpanel-hingecovercutout-2008-11-30.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1397-...-2008-11-30.png

 

Moving right along, the next step was to add the right most plasticard piece to supplement the width of the armor. Initially this piece was supposed to be 10.5 mm wide however with the added optical hood detail item I had to increase the width to 13.5 mm. I started off by gluing small plasticard straps which work as backing pieces to support the plasticard front.

 

After measuring the thickness of the plastic front armor plate provided by GW, I found that its not precisely 1.0 mm wide but instead around 1.25 mm. As 1.25 mm plasticard is virtually non-existent from what I found, I instead added an addition 0.25 x 2.00 mm plasticard strip to the backing straps which boost the armor level flush with the GW plastic.

 

Right Front Armor Panel – Build Up

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1391-4/rightfrontarmorpanel-buildup-2008-11-30.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1396-...-2008-11-30.png

 

Now the picture above shows that the front hinge is still present. Unfortunately during the gluing process I glued the assembly I was building to the wrong front armor plate. You'll remember I have two of them as I'm building the LRE with two LR kits. After taking the picture and realizing my error, I gently ripped the piece off and glued it to the correct one. I have to learn to keep these extraneous parts out of the way while I'm working.

 

Put the right piece of the main front armor panel to allow the glue to dry, I then moved on to the left side piece. Now here we have to first cut out the front optical hood detail item. As I want to look like the one on the Prometheus front panel, I need to make some minor additions and modifications in plasticard for both to look the same.

 

Left Front Armor Panel – Optical Hood Removal and New Panel Backing

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1381-4/leftfrontarmorpanel-opticalhoodremovalandnewpanelbacking-2008-11-30.png

https://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1386-...-2008-11-30.png

 

To cut the optical hood out of that piece, I carefully measured, marked and then gently scored and cut the piece out with a combination of Xacto and razor saw work. The end result was a very clean polished cut with minimal damage to both pieces. After removing the optical hood, I went right back to work again putting in backing straps and 0.25 mm spacers for the eventual addition of a plasticard front piece to fill the gap.

 

Tomorrow I'll go into detail as to creating the remaining pieces for the front main armor panel, creating a Prometheus-style optical hood (btw if any one has a better name for whatever that is, please let me know... it kinda sounds funny), and setting up the locations for the hinges for the top front assault door.

 

As always questions and comments are welcome!

[sgtNACHO]

Wow that pic that showed the whole thing from a distance made me tremble <_< I'm liking the idea of putting something on top. I would say a rhino top for fire points or even a Predator turret ;) Looking great, keep it up.

[DogmaRaider]

sgtNACHO: I've heard that from a couple people at this point. The top is still a question mark in my mind. I'm still leaning towards keeping it relatively flat so I don't have to introduce yet another kit to this project. For the Grey Knight ones I do later I certainly could see that or perhaps use the Repressor top as Innus Bade 9 suggested.

[DogmaRaider]

Alrighty now for something completely different... no just kidding I'm still working on the front. But let's start off different with a mock up of what I have already.

 

Mock Up - Front Armor Panel - Phase I

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1401-4/mockup-frontarmorpanel-phasei-2008-12-02.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1414-...-2008-12-02.png

 

As part of the front armor panel, I want to include various bits and parts from the Prometheus kit. Chief among them are the optical dome and the two hatch cover details. Now when I cut then apart from the Prometheus front panel from Forgeworld, it turns out to be too thick to use on top of the plasticard. It would look of place. To correct this, I use a technique I like to call "skinning"; I haven't seen an explanation for it elsewhere so I've decided to take the time here.

 

"Skinning" as the word suggests involves cutting the thickness down. The primary tool that I use for this is the razor saw. To start of, you careful use the razor saw to cut a nice groove around the entire perimeter of the piece. Try to keep the same distance from the top and resist the temptation to cut it all the way through at this point. When you have a good groove all the way around, use the razor saw again but this time cut it through only on the corners. Use the grooves as a guide to keep the saw on track. When you're finished, you'll have a nicely cut piece that you use on top of any bit. You can see the process and results above. You can use this technique on any bit you have.

 

Prometheus Cut Up and Skinning of Hatch Cover

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1405-4/prometheuscutupandskinningofhatchcover-2008-12-02.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1415-...-2008-12-02.png

 

Moving on, another key part of the front panel is the optical hood. Now the standard Land Raider front armor panel and the Prometheus kit both have this feature. However in this instance, I think the Prometheus kit looks a lot better and more detailed that the standard one. The hood is raised on an armor plate and has a nice lip on the front. Now I want to put these on each side of the Exterminus front armor panel that I'm building but I only have one so I'm going to have to take on standard hood that I cut out previously and convert it up.

 

Optical Hood - Final

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1409-4/opticalhood-final-2008-12-02.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1416-...-2008-12-02.png

 

To start off with, I glue the internal piece that contains the optics into the standard hood. Now when you glue the piece in, you don't want to glue it flush with the hood, you want to raise it slightly. This is the key that gives you the detailed bottom lip that you see on the Prometheus hood. After it dries, you take a file, a square if you have it, and file down the bottom 1/2 of the front lip that's sticking up. You can see it in the first picture above. You don't have to file it down all the way, just flush with existing front portion of the optical hood.

 

Next take a 1 mm x 1 mm square bit of plasticard rod and put it under the lip that you just created. You can see this in the second and third pictures above. Now you have simple nicely detailed pair of optical hoods. The last thing I did was remove the three protrusions at the back of the Prometheus hood. You can recreate them if you want to with 1 x 1.5 mm plasticard rod and a 0.25 mm x 1 mm strip but they didn't fit the look I wanted for the Exterminus.

 

Finally I have to start patching the holes in the main armor plate so I can begin to mount all of the detail pieces. It would be too long and complex to detail how I cut it up so I'm working up a blueprint that I'll post in the next few days or so that will detail the entire front armor piece. For now you can enjoy the new mock up that I have now. The Prometheus sensor turret I just there for contract; that location is really reserved for a pintle mounted gun.

 

Mock Up - Front Armor Panel - Phase II

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1413-4/mockup-frontarmorpanel-phaseii-2008-12-02.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1417-...-2008-12-02.png

 

Mock Up – Front Armor Panel – Phase II – Front Profile

Mock Up – Front Armor Panel – Phase II – Front Left Profile

Mock Up – Front Armor Panel – Phase II – Top Profile

 

See everyone next time.. same Space Marine time... same Space Marine channel.... As always, quetsion and comments are welcome!

[DogmaRaider]

Time to go into detail... literally. Most of the major structures are complete except for the top panel and the tunnels. I'll be tackling those this weekend; my last opportunity.

 

But first a little back tracking. The magnets that I glued in to hold the sponsons seemed adequate however Falk on Warseer advised me that I should make something more substantial. After I was able to take one of the magnets off quite easily with a pair of pliers I was convinced as well. To build a bracket, I first built a template from plasticard. This isn't a waste of time in my case as I'll be making at least 4 more of the Exterminuses.

 

Magnet Holder Bracket

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1448-4/magnetholderbracket-2008-12-08.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1452-...-2008-12-08.png

 

After cutting a piece of 2.0 mm x 9.5 mm x 20 mm plasticard and drilling the holes, I put the magnets in sealed one end with a plasticard strip. Placing the piece back in the same locations as the original magnets and we're back in business. Thanks Falk!

 

Now I'm going to concentrate on some of the minor detail pieces that we've overlooked. First we'll go back to the inside. In a normal Land Raider, two of these bays are reserved for the hatch doors and GW provides you a detail piece and a set of doors. If you remember I have four bays in the inside where you would normally mount the computer or utility detail pieces.

 

In order to get the coverage I want, I'm going to have to skin and rebuild some of the detail of these inside pieces. This presents a unique issue in that the detail is on two sides of the same bit.

 

Inner Panel Detail Skinning - Cutting

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1444-4/innerpaneldetailskinning-cutting-2008-12-08.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1451-...-2008-12-08.png

 

Now I started this process just as I did with the optical hood however there is a snag with this one. The winch detail on the one side is recessed so much that the placement of the saw on the first piece I cut went through into the detail. It also went through the wrench and jack hammer detail section as well although not as bad.

 

Inner Panel Detail Skinning - After Cutting and Cleaning

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1440-4/innerpaneldetailskinning-aftercuttingandcleaning-2008-12-08.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1450-...-2008-12-08.png

 

Above you can see that immediately after the cut, you can see that some of the backing material in the wrench and winch detail sections. Using a new sharp Xacto blade and knife, I cut the remain backing around the detail. You can see the results in the final picture above.

 

For the second piece, I directly cut the detail off the face side. Even when doing this I still ended up cutting into the detail on the winch side although it wasn't nearly as bad. This time I only had to remove the background of the winch detail.

 

Inner Panel - Final

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1436-4/innerpanel-final-2008-12-08.png

http://images.dogmaraiderville.net/d/1449-...-2008-12-08.png

 

After both pieces were clean, I cut some 0.5 mm plasticard backing and glued them in place. For the detail that I cut off, gluing on piece of plasticard solved that problem. The final picture shows all of the pieces in place in the interior pieces of the Exterminus.

 

Tomorrow I'll be decorating the Christmas Tree but I should have something possible on Wednesday or Thursday night. Until then, questions and comments are always welcome!

[Shortsonfire79]

Wow! Amazing man, well done, well done. I guess I should start working on the front plate soon...I have to finish before the weekend, or I'll be really far behind =-D.. Gotta get to work then! =-D

 

I just hope you'll let me commission you to make me one too, so I can say "this is the crappy V2..and heres the good V1...not made by me of course" and it'd look AWESOME!!!!