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Modelling: How to Drill Gun Barrels - Plastic


King_Pash

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Right, i know that may be a simple idea to some of you and that it's pretty much the most basic drill-skill that people aquire but i still haven't seen a tutorial on it and i felt like making one for all of you guys out there.

 

This is my first tutorial so the pics are a bit blurred (my phone camera doesn't like anything closer than like 1 foot away :( ).

 

Let's start.

 

Step 1 - Equipment

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02082.jpg

 

-Pin vice drill (i have the Citadel version but i'm sure any hobby-style ones will do just as well)

-File (to file off any raised edges)

-Toothpick (to poke out all the excess plastic)

-A willing volunteer :P

-Brewski (optional ;) )

 

Step 2 - Select your drill points

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02080.jpg

 

I am going to show you how to drill the side hole in the barrel and the front hole. As you can see they are undrilled in this picure.

 

Step 3 - Hole number 1

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02087.jpg

 

Using the pin vice, drill a hole from one end of the barrel, straight through to the other side.

Keep going until you can see right through as thus:

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02088.jpg

 

Step 4 - Hole number 2

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02086.jpg

 

Carefully center your drill in the middle of the barrel and drill until you get through to the rest of the gun. No need to go too deep (unless you like it deep ;) ), just 5mm should do it.

 

Now you should have a near finished boltgun.

 

Step 5 - Finishing up

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02092.jpg

 

Grad your toothpick and push out all the excess plastic in the barrel. This is usually just drill-fluff.

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02093.jpg

 

Now all it needs is some filing to make sure the edges are not sticking out and you should end up with a finished product as thus:

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02094.jpg

 

Emperor's Finest indeed! ^_^

 

Step 6 - Practice & Experiment!

 

This technique works great on Bolters but can be applied to other guns too. Below i have shown you hat can be done with a Stormbolter and a Flamer.

 

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02095.jpg

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk287/King_Pash/DSC02097.jpg

 

 

Hopefully you have enjoyed my little guide. As you can see it's pretty easy to do. i got my drill today and managed to do my whole army (40+ models) in less time than it takes to watch Ghostbusters II :D

 

Experiment, try different things. Any questions or CC always welcome. Hope i've given something back to the B&C community. Enjoy! :D

 

-King Pash :devil:

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Good tutorial, and I have two things to add:

 

-Before you start drilling, take your hobby knife and put a little pip where you want the hole. This can make drilling more accurate and easier. Especially if you use an electric hobby drill. (Like me! B) )

-You can use whatever size bit you want, but be careful about it a bit that is too big. If it is too big and the drill veers off center then it can rip the end of the barrel.

 

Cheers!

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Well done!

I'll add my two cents as well.

When I do this, I tend to drill the front of the barrel first, then the side vents of the flash suppressor. I find this sequence helps to avoid drilling through the sides of the barrel in the wrong spot. You hit the previously-drilled channel before you drill out the other side.

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Yes, storm bolters need this the most.

 

You can do the same thing to metal figs, it just takes a lot longer to drill, unless you like living on the edge and using a power tool! :tu:

 

 

I did try that with one of my Scouts but the process took a long time and did not go all the way through. The pin vice grip wasn't strong enough to keep it turning. It just stopped the drill. Also, i'm not sure how good that is for the drill... :tu:

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I do one side about half way, then the otherside until the holes meet. That always works very, very well for me.

 

I also always start the front hole using the pin end of a scupting tool I have. I found that I wasn't hitting center on barrels because the drill bit is just to big to see if it is centered right... and if the bit isn't sitting in a starter hole it can slip on the first turn and fall off center even when you've positioned it right. So a thin pin / pokey thing to start the hole helps me alot.

 

This is a good totorial anyhow... I'm always amazed to see a well painted mini without the barrel drilled :pinch:

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you said brewski and i lol'd hard gg ;)

 

I like my Miller time. Strange how all the time is Miller-time though.. ;)

 

teh_perfesser - i'll try that on my Scout again. He's half-way there already anyway, it would be a shame to leave him unfinished. Btw, thanks for that tip. Also, i'm not sure if my drills have a pin end but alternatively i can just find something pointy, like a paperclip os sumthing. Cheers lads! :huh:

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Yeah. A paper clip would work too or a big safety pin. I poke the pin and then check if the pin is in the middle from every angle I can. I think I need it because my eyes are going and I'm too stubborn to get glasses.

 

Your's are either perfect or really close to it, so you might not need a starter hole helper... but, man, I did a couple of stinkers that I can tell are off center from across the room (those mistakes will be hiding in the back rows ;) )

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
I find that a push pin works well for marking a start point. It gives me something to hang on to as when I used safety pins, my grip would slip from time to time. Nice looking minis.
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