13skullz Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 very nice! good thing i have tons of that from my little kiddie days eh? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1640530 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianBlessed Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 How do you prepare them to be put on the model, any pics of a figure for us? Great detail on those casts, how do you carve out the hollows for the arms though is what I want to know basically. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1640671 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wiplash Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 awww i went to hobbycraft today ;) i wish i had read this thread this morning great stuff the banners wont work though cos they are round if you do any 2 part mold stuff like the SW axes or swords (hint hint) please show Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1640704 Share on other sites More sharing options...
munky79 Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 as promised here is a pick of the wolf skulls on a plastic pad, i apologise for the bad pic its midnight and ive got a really bad headache( and i stuck the skull on a little too high ;) ) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/munky79/DSC00422.jpg also here is a link for the sculpey i use:sculpey tho this isnt who i bought it from i cant remember where i got it Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1640845 Share on other sites More sharing options...
munky79 Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 How do you prepare them to be put on the model, any pics of a figure for us? Great detail on those casts, how do you carve out the hollows for the arms though is what I want to know basically. sorry i havent got a model made up yet but as for the arms either cut off the shoulder part and pin to the GS pad or use a Dremel or grinding tool to hollow out the pad so its the same as a plastic one Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1640855 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianBlessed Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 How do you prepare them to be put on the model, any pics of a figure for us? Great detail on those casts, how do you carve out the hollows for the arms though is what I want to know basically. sorry i havent got a model made up yet but as for the arms either cut off the shoulder part and pin to the GS pad or use a Dremel or grinding tool to hollow out the pad so its the same as a plastic one OK thanks. I'm impressed with the results you've got out of this cast. Cool tutorial I'm going to have to give ths a try. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1640910 Share on other sites More sharing options...
munky79 Posted July 25, 2008 Author Share Posted July 25, 2008 i would just like to add on behalf of the moderati that i am in no way endorsing the copying of Gamesworkshop figures, the reason being that the staff at Gw have invested a lot of time and effort into making the models we enjoy. this topic was mearly a showcase of what can be done with supersculpey and greenstuff, i would appreciate if members could stick to posting about the process rather than what can be theoretically moulded from it. many many thanks everyone Munky Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1641542 Share on other sites More sharing options...
13skullz Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 oh... duh... sorry. <_< i guess i didint think about that!! :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1641571 Share on other sites More sharing options...
aioannou Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 very nifty process, it will be quite useful to do something like this on converted weapons and such so you can make uniform armies that are still unique. though would it be ebtter to use a resin or plaster of paris, rather than green stuff as it would be more cost effective? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1641715 Share on other sites More sharing options...
13skullz Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 plaster of paris sucks ++}DELETED BY THE =][=NQUISITION{++ its far too brittle, and is terrible for detail. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1641732 Share on other sites More sharing options...
aioannou Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 i recenlty did this for my night lords. making moulds for shoulder pads wing details and forge world doors, and chapter icons. it is great.it does also mean you can release the green from the mould whislt still setting and make terminator shoulders which look great! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1654835 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikolakhs Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 So, quick question, I have this stuff, but didn't realize it could be used so well to make spare parts for those hard to get bitz. So you put the part you want in there after applying a lubricant so it doesn't stick, but do you bake the part along with the super sculpey, or do you remove it after a couple of hours and then bake the sculpey? And also, when you've made the mold, do you let the Green Stuff harden inside the mold as it sets, or do you take it out after an hour or so so that it doesn't stick in there? Thanks a bunch --Nikolakhs-- Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1655578 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adolpheal Posted August 7, 2008 Share Posted August 7, 2008 Remove the part before baking at the designated temp 275F (off the top of my head), you can let the sculpy set up by letting it sit for a while prior to pulling your "male" pattern. (Haven't tried the following yet bit will give it a shot - put both parts in at a low temp to speed up the process, or on top of computer case). GS needs to set for a bit prior to removing (this depends on how you mixed your GS as well how intricate your parts are). Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/141801-greenstuff-moulds/page/2/#findComment-1655760 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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