c.gymer Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Hey guys and gals! My name is Chris and this is my very first WIP for any website ever! First off is a little bit about me. I'm 26 and a mature student at the University of Kent studying Philosophy (first year), and after 13 years away from the hobby I'm back after my doctor told me to get a hobby to keep my mind concentrated on something (I have bi-polar disorder)! I made the cut back in the '95 Golden Deamon but stopped painting shortly after having discovered girls and the drumset, so I was at a reasonable standard. Now I just need to re-learn everything so comments and critics are welcome! So having come across the Red Scorpions bits on Forgeworld I thought I'd collect them for a while! To get me started I thought I ought to do a test mini, so here is the metal Space Marine Terminator Captain model. I've added a cloak and wolf pelt but other than that he is as nature intended. Without much further ado, let the WIP begin! First off, I trimmed the flash and mold lines with a craft knife, then sanded the model down using various grades of sandpaper from Wilkinsons and my assortment off hobby files. next came the cloak in GS followed by the pelt. Once he was dry, the priming began! I used 3 thin coats of Vallejo gray primer all over, and then 3 thin coats of Vallejo white primer, which I fired from above and the sides in a halo of light fashion. "Why?" I hear you cry. Well, this gives an excellent coverage, as well as a little texture, and gives you an undercoat that shows where the light falls in a more natural way. This reasoning for this method (which is a huge experiment by the way) should become clear as I progress. So here he is in all of his primed glory! http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr19/cgymer/RedScorpionsCaptainFront.jpg http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr19/cgymer/RedScorpionsCaptainBack.jpg So now we're ready to paint, I'll start with the face.I use a mixture of Vallejo Model Color, Reaper Master Series and Games Workshop Citadel Color, and I use a style of glazing for most of my painting, building up colors with many consecutive layers. 1: RMS Tanned Skin, 4 layers covering the whole face. http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr19/cgymer/RSCapFace1.jpg 2: RMS Tanned Shadow, 2 layers followed by RMS Tanned Shadow/RMS Dark Elf Skin 1:1, 2 layers. These are brushed into the creases and natural shadow lines. http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr19/cgymer/RSCapFace2.jpg 3: Skipping ahead a little bit I've added 2 coats of RMS Tanned Highlight, followed by 1 coat of RMS Tanned Highlight/RMS Sandy Yellow 1:1 to the natural ridges where the highlights would fall. Then a thin wash of RMS Sandy Brown all over to tie the colors together. I've blocked out the inside of the mouth, eye sockets and drawn on the eye brows using GW Beastial Brown/GW Chaos Black 1:1, then drawn in the whites of the eyes and teeth using GW Bleached Bone/GW Skull White/RMS Snow Shadow 1:1:1, then dotted the pupils with VMC Oxford Blue. 2 coats of RMS Dark Elf Highlight for the stuble finish off this picture. http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr19/cgymer/RSCapFace3.jpg 4: Now on to the hair. GW Beastial Brown, 1 coat followed by a wash of RMS Dark Elf Shadow. Next up a drybrush of RMS Dark Elf Highlight and an overbrush of GW Skull White. I finished this off with a wash of GW Badab Black then Sealed the painting so far using brush on VMC Matt Varnish. http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr19/cgymer/RSCapFace4.jpg That finishes off this post. Comments and criticisms/suggestions are desired! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminatorinhell Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 looks good so far but is it the model or the camera that looks a bit grainy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.gymer Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 Hey Terminatorinhell. It's the mini. I'm trying a wee experiment with the priming. Theoretically the way in which the white primer has fallen over the gray primer should allow (once I start glazing the armor) for a more natural lighting effect. Thanks for the reply dude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ompfris Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 face looks really good so far, my painting will be up to this standard (I wish!) soon... well after my trip to the opticians.. I think I might need glasses (i'm finding it hard to focas) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graypaint Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Hey Terminatorinhell. It's the mini. I'm trying a wee experiment with the priming. Theoretically the way in which the white primer has fallen over the gray primer should allow (once I start glazing the armor) for a more natural lighting effect. Thanks for the reply dude! I think the double coat of primer made it sort of grainy. Photos are always a real pain in the ass because they make things that look really nice to the naked eye look a lot more textured and bring out the imperfections. I would seriously think about repriming this guy and getting a smoother coat, especially since you seem to be trying to get some really smooth painting done on him and make it look really ace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.gymer Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 Well all was going well until I came to start working on his plate armor this afternoon. The primer experiment has had the unfortunate side effect of being too rough for glazing. Never mind, we live and learn! I'll be stripping him down and starting again when I find an effective method for stripping metals so any suggestions are very welcome! I do normally aim for a very smooth finish for my primer and I'm still experimenting with different brands (Tamiya is up next before I start trying out the cheaper sprays), and I've been looking at maybe trying an airbrush. I'll be posting a new WIP though soon for my pre heresy Luna Wolves so watch this space! Thanks for the replies so far folks, and feel free to add any further posts on this one though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graypaint Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Well all was going well until I came to start working on his plate armor this afternoon. The primer experiment has had the unfortunate side effect of being too rough for glazing. Never mind, we live and learn! I'll be stripping him down and starting again when I find an effective method for stripping metals so any suggestions are very welcome! I do normally aim for a very smooth finish for my primer and I'm still experimenting with different brands (Tamiya is up next before I start trying out the cheaper sprays), and I've been looking at maybe trying an airbrush. I'll be posting a new WIP though soon for my pre heresy Luna Wolves so watch this space! Thanks for the replies so far folks, and feel free to add any further posts on this one though! Any sort of amonia based window cleaner will loosen up paint. I use and olf toothbrush after about 6 hours of soaking then dip him in again and go at it with a dentists scraping pick thing... Anyway, it might not be the brand of primer as much as the way you apply it, short bursts and from a decent distance. Too far will make it dry in the air and give a rough particle coat, too close and it will be liquidy and pushed around. Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antman677 Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 yeah id shake the can for 3 mins before you spray. it looks like either the paint isnt mixed well or youre catching a lot of dust during the spraying. are you spraying in a cardboard box? if youre doing the preshading technique ive seen it done with effect if you paint the base color first then do your pre-shading spray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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