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FAQ: Painting Gold


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I do tin bitz basecoat, leave that in the deapest recesses

on top of that is shining gold shaded with a mix of black ink and tin bitz, then shining gold again, with a wash of shining gold and redgore, then shining gold again, then burnished gold highlight. one can also give it a wash of 2:1 water to chestnut ink afterwards if the layering is really conflicting.

Simple method that works well is:

 

- Base coat of Shining Gold.

- Flesh Wash, over all of the gold area, not just crevices.

- Highlight higher parts with more Shining Gold.

- Highlight edges with 1:1 Shining Gold and Mithril Silver.

- If you want, highlight the extremes of edges with pure Mithril Silver.

 

Gives a nice polished look.

The easy way:

Shining Gold (May need a couple of layer to get right)

Wash in Flesh Wash

Highlight in Shining Gold again.

 

The not that easy way:

Start out with Scorched Brown.

Mix Scorched Brown and Shining Gold and build up to pure Shining Gold.

Mix Shining Gold and Mithril Silver as a last highlight.

  • 5 months later...

its a lot more useful asking a less vague question

 

gold is a colour with 100 different looks, ways to be painted, and so forth

 

its better to explain a way on how YOU can achieve what YOU are after instead of giving you some regurgitated paint "recipe"

 

if all you are after is a recipe...well think about it, they arent that hard...pick a gold paint...add something to brighten, then wash recesses with dark colour, done

I mostly use this:

 

brazen brass (not for sale anymore I think you could use dwarfen bronse for this)

shade with wash of 1:2:1 ( I think ) brown ink:matt varnish:water

highlight with brasen brass

highlight again with shining gold

 

for other looks you could use an aditional green/purple/ whatever colour you like wash. I mostly use green as other version cuz it looks realy nice on chaos mini's

1:1 Basecoat of Shining Gold and Scorched Brown

Brown wash

Shining Gold on everything but recesses

Burnished Gold for highlight, or if I'm going for insanely high polish, a la High Elves, 1:1 gold and Mithril Silver

I'll sometimes do another very dilute brown wash to bring it all together.

Painting gold power armor (this is faster than it sounds once you get the hang of it):

 

I aim for a slightly weathered, ancient looking gold. This is what I use on the shoulder pad trim, kneepads, imperialis, and occasional doodads on my marines (also the entire body armor of my inquisitor):

 

- The undercoat should be chaos black to start. If you are just using black primer, paint a layer of chaos black over it. The metallics, at least in my experience with the GW ones, seem to go on a bit better over that than the primer.

 

- You want to paint all of the should end up gold areas brazen brass now. I water it down 1:1 to avoid any chunkiness from the metallics, and make sure that when you paint, you don't leave any splotching / blotting / clumping, which can happen with the metallics more than the other paints from GW. At least in my experience. Usually this takes 2-3 coats to get flat and even for me.

 

- Shining gold is up next. Same as above, the whole area gold minus perhaps the deepest of the recesses, but even then, I tend to err on the side of caution and just build everything up to gold here.

 

- Now, ink everything you just painted shining gold with chestnut ink. I tend to use 1:2 or 1:3 ink to water, and throw a tiny drop of dish soap in there to break the surface tension of the ink (I'm not lying, seriously). Don't overdo it; an easy mistake to make and one I was guilty of often. I tend to paint the ink into the recesses on the model, but just give a much lighter wash (almost like a glaze) over the broader surfaces of the model. If you are getting large areas stained entirely reddish brown, you are doing too much. If the recesses are turning this color, but the higher areas just have a slightly reddish tint to them, you are doing it right.

 

- Pause. Let the ink dry. You'll regret not doing this; trust me and learn from my own folly on this one!

 

- Now, get that shining gold back out. Touch up any spots that are too red, and make sure the ink only remains heavily in the recesses of the model. Often, I think of this as doing some highlighting to make sure that the final product looks like it is properly shaded.

 

- Burnished gold is next. This should be a highlight, and you want to make sure to water it down about 1:1 and go light on the painting. You don't want thick blobs or clumps. Be patient and make sure to get thin layers of paint on the highlights, and you will find the GW metallics blend together pretty well. It's when you put them on heavy that they look pretty garish.

 

- At this point you should be able to see a pretty nice spread of color from the shading in the recesses to the higher edges, but it won't look quite right (this is one of the problems with GW metallics, as they just don't seem to approximate a truly realistic spread of color to the naked eye without some mixing) yet. More like a giant apple or something for now, with the reddish brown mixed with various shades of gold.

 

- For a final highlight to make the metallics look more realistic and, at the same time, provide a bit more of a weathered / gothic look, you are going to want to mix some mithril silver and burnished gold. The mithril silver will be strongly dominant in this mix, so a half-half mix is just going to look like you highlighted silver onto your gold for no particular reason other than to be punchy. I advise against this. For my part, I tend to use about a 1:4 mix (then watered down a bit) for the highlights. This should still look pretty silver, and you don't need to mix a huge amount of paint for it, but make sure you tinker with it a bit until you get a mix where you can tell there is some gold in there. It will have a pale, silver shaded with gold appearance, and that is precisely what you want. Highlight with that (again, make sure it's thin highlights, not clumpy or blotchy), following just a bit less aggressively over all the parts that you already highlighted with burnished gold.

 

- At the end, you should have the following spread of colors:

 

Reddish Gold / Slight Brown --> Darker Gold with a hint of Red --> Lighter Gold --> Pale Gold with a hint of Silver

 

I've found this looks pretty good on marines, power armor, and doodads in general. Where it fails to look as good is either over very broad surfaces (because then the inking doesn't come out quite right and just looks blotchy, so don't use this on a Rhino side panel) or on something organic (like, say, a C'Tan) where you are going to need to do more blending to make it look right over a lot of gentle curves.

 

Good luck!

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