Gothical Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 Gothical: To have the same paints (just under a different name), I'd suggest you check out the Coat d'Arms and Vallejo Opaque ranges. More specifically, GW Regal Blue is CDA Royal Blue, GW Mordian Blue is Vallejo Game Extra Opaque Heavy Blue, GW Ultramarine Blue is CDA Marine Blue, and GW Space Wolves Grey is CDA Lupin Grey. I personally use Hasslefree Minis (who are based in the UK) to get my CDA paints and get my Vallejo ones on eBay but there are countless other suppliers so look around and see what suits you best. Thank you for the advice. I've used Hasslefree before and keep forgetting they sell paints, otherwise I have just moved and haven't discovered new hobby suppliers yet. I'll see what I can find whilst trying to see if I can convert it to the newer paint line to give me the most options! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadskær Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 Hey Gothical, Thanks a lot, glad you like my work. Here's the recipes you asked for :-) Thank you very much. It is always interesting to hear excellent painters' methods of painting, I would never have thought of using purple and green to glaze the gold areas. You say "select areas", how do you decide which bits to tone? My previous experience with glazing has been an all-over glaze to tie layers together, so I can't quite picture it. I think I can pick out some green in the picture (unless my eyes deceive me), such as on the inner edges of the shield corners, so are you using it as almost a form of subtle shading on non-recessed parts? I'll have to ponder how to shift your blue recipe across to the "new" paint range, and hope I can keep the richness of tone with the slightly muted look. In many ways I do miss the old range for its simplicity, even if it sometimes led to a lot of mixing. I find it interesting that you use no shades/washes on the armour. One method of painting I've seen quite a lot lately is to paint a solid basecoat over your undercoat, even into the recesses, then hit it with an all-over wash to add the shading before moving on to the layering. In this case, I assume you're just incredibly careful with the basecoat to leave the black undercoat showing in the deepest recesses and work up from there? Thanks a lot Buddy. Glad you can use it. Yes, on select areas the glazes are applied. I try to use them as very subtle shading, so more in recesses or towards recesses and away from the sharper highlights. I've found that the new paint range and the comparison chart between the two works okay. The key is building up the color from the black undercoat and then slowly adding the layers, allowing for the underlying coats to influence them. I must have forgot about shading for the armor. I always use a shade, and it is often a combination of the primary color (or a variation thereof) and a darker tone. For the Ultramarine, I use a 1:1 mix of Regal Blue and Chaos Black, thin it down to a shade and then very carefully apply it in as many layers as needed to build up the shading and color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gothical Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Thanks a lot Buddy. Glad you can use it. Yes, on select areas the glazes are applied. I try to use them as very subtle shading, so more in recesses or towards recesses and away from the sharper highlights. I've found that the new paint range and the comparison chart between the two works okay. The key is building up the color from the black undercoat and then slowly adding the layers, allowing for the underlying coats to influence them. I must have forgot about shading for the armor. I always use a shade, and it is often a combination of the primary color (or a variation thereof) and a darker tone. For the Ultramarine, I use a 1:1 mix of Regal Blue and Chaos Black, thin it down to a shade and then very carefully apply it in as many layers as needed to build up the shading and color. Thank you once again. I'm going to test it out once I've got a hold of a couple of new paints, and I'll let you know the results (I won't be able to share pictures unfortunately as it will be for a non-B&C-approved miniature range). Edit: A though just occurred to me, do you prefer to paint your metals first or your non-metals? I keep going back and forth on this. I feel that I should paint the armour first, as it requires a lot less steps to correct than the metallics, which makes getting a bit on the metals annoying to fix. However, I have previously found that if you get any metallics on a non-metallic section it can be really hard to touch-up thanks to the brightness of the metallic paint showing through the non-metallic layers. In your experience (if you can remember a time you ever made mistakes ) what do you feel is the best method? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadskær Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 Thanks a lot Buddy. Glad you can use it. Yes, on select areas the glazes are applied. I try to use them as very subtle shading, so more in recesses or towards recesses and away from the sharper highlights. I've found that the new paint range and the comparison chart between the two works okay. The key is building up the color from the black undercoat and then slowly adding the layers, allowing for the underlying coats to influence them. I must have forgot about shading for the armor. I always use a shade, and it is often a combination of the primary color (or a variation thereof) and a darker tone. For the Ultramarine, I use a 1:1 mix of Regal Blue and Chaos Black, thin it down to a shade and then very carefully apply it in as many layers as needed to build up the shading and color. Thank you once again. I'm going to test it out once I've got a hold of a couple of new paints, and I'll let you know the results (I won't be able to share pictures unfortunately as it will be for a non-B&C-approved miniature range). Edit: A though just occurred to me, do you prefer to paint your metals first or your non-metals? I keep going back and forth on this. I feel that I should paint the armour first, as it requires a lot less steps to correct than the metallics, which makes getting a bit on the metals annoying to fix. However, I have previously found that if you get any metallics on a non-metallic section it can be really hard to touch-up thanks to the brightness of the metallic paint showing through the non-metallic layers. In your experience (if you can remember a time you ever made mistakes ) what do you feel is the best method? Hey Gothical, thanks for your reply. I didn't get a notification on your update, so I'm very sorry for my late reply! I tend to always work from a black basecoat, no matter what I'm painting (the only exception being if I paint something bright, say Deathwing, where I start from a white basecoat). This means that if I were to paint the power armor first, shade it, highlight it to completion and subsequently screw up on the metallics, I'd just repaint the error in black and re-do the power armor steps. Or vice-versa. Does that makes sense? No matter what color I paint, if I get something of that color on another piece that isn't supposed to be that color, I re-paint it with black, for exactly the reason you state with regards to the metallics sometimes showing through :-) And yes, I do make mistakes ;-) Cheers, Vadskær Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadskær Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 Hey Chaps, Still alive, although working around 50-60 hours a week doesn't leave time for painting. I've been sick with the dreaded Man-Flu these last past days, and FINALLY had some time to finish another deathwatch marine. He's from the Deathwatch Kill Team box. I chose to paint him up as an Imperial Fist, as I haven't done one from that chapter before, and also thought the colors would complement the black armor nicely. The silver right arm got quite a bit brighter than the one above, which I'm happy about (built upon a basecoat of Leadbelcher and three thinned coats of Chainmail as a basecoat), which allowed for a much brighter sheen. Also, nailed the blue'ish glaze better with Necron Abyss :-) All in all, very pleased with him! I added some yellow to the shield, to break up all the black. The base is an old one from VoodooWorx, now sold through SecretWeaponMiniatures. I chose it to represent a more Xenos environment, which of course is appropriate for the Deathwatch. Enjoy, and Merry Christmas! /vadskær http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t410/vadskaer/IMG_6714_zpsf6ppjtue.jpg http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t410/vadskaer/IMG_6721_zpswvdbjj9k.jpg http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t410/vadskaer/IMG_6724_zpsltg8oj3n.jpg http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t410/vadskaer/IMG_6729_zps9fl39wsv.jpg http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t410/vadskaer/IMG_6735_zpstswx9n8e.jpg http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t410/vadskaer/IMG_6740_zpslmhkbsbd.jpg http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t410/vadskaer/IMG_6747_zps1vjqp6nf.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandMagnus Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 Well... Stunning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gothical Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Haven't checked in on this thread for a while (thank you for the advice once again), and my word is that Deathwatch guy impressive - especially the face! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Love it.... I am not sure if you answered how do you do the flesh? If you don't mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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