FAQ: Painting Salamanders

[GeneralMaChao]

Thank you in advance for any commentary you have to add. As the title says I am a new 40k player looking to paint his first chapter, the mighty Salamanders of Nocturne. I have come up with some of my own ideas but I'd like some practical advice for the more experienced. I'm trying to go for a darker, more "sooty" look as befitting the residents of a volcanic death world.

 

1) This is the most important question. I'm extremely retentive but I'm just starting out with painting. If you have any suggestions on what kinds of things to do to build some experience while hopefully doing a decent job I'd love to hear it. If it means that anything I ask below is beyond me, please say so.

 

2) Most of my figures are already primed black. I want the green to be just a bit dark. I have plenty of Snot Green for the task. I'm planning on using Goblin Green for highlighting the lighter areas and maybe Dark Angel green for shading. Any thoughts?

 

3) For the honorary flame badge, I'm using Legion of the Damned flame shoulder pads on my Tactical Squads. I'm planning on trying to make a flaming wing design on the shoulder pad for Assault Squads and a volcanic like explosion design for Devastators. These will be painted with a layer of Fiery Orange in the center of the flame with Blazing Orange radiating out.

 

4) Skin tones: I plan on alternating dark and light skin with those Marines without helmets, to pay respect to both the old and new fluff. I'll be using Dark Flesh and Dwarf Flesh respectively but any suggestions how to give them sort of a "singed" look, sort of like someone who's out in the sun all the time?

 

5) Weapons: Tin Bitz with Chaos Black perhaps?

 

6) Sgt. Helmets: I know Salamander Sgts. wear gold helmets, but does anyone have any suggestions for lens colors that won't be obnoxious?

 

7) Any suggestions on how to get the "well used" look on heavy flamers, melta weapons, etc. (that dirty brown heated metal look)

 

Thanks so much.

[Starks333]

1) This is the most important question. I'm extremely retentive but I'm just starting out with painting. If you have any suggestions on what kinds of things to do to build some experience while hopefully doing a decent job I'd love to hear it. If it means that anything I ask below is beyond me, please say so.

 

***take your time, if your main goal is models on the table then simply basecoat all your models in flat colours, go back later on and add highlights and stuff, when you have more time....if you arent in a rush, then i have suggestions below

 

 

****only read on if you decided you arent in a rush to get the army on the table

 

 

2) Most of my figures are already primed black. I want the green to be just a bit dark. I have plenty of Snot Green for the task. I'm planning on using Goblin Green for highlighting the lighter areas and maybe Dark Angel green for shading. Any thoughts?

 

*** start by painting your model a dark grey(chaos black+skull white), add snot green so you get a dark grey green, paint this over 3/4 of the grey areas, leaving the grey where you want shades...next add more snot green so its basicly a slightly dark version of snot, paint it closer to your highlighs...then straight snot green for your first layer of highlights, and then add bleached bone to your green for the very brightest highlight

 

(i have an example i just did up a quick one just now, when i get my camera later tonight ill try and post it for you)

 

3) For the honorary flame badge, I'm using Legion of the Damned flame shoulder pads on my Tactical Squads. I'm planning on trying to make a flaming wing design on the shoulder pad for Assault Squads and a volcanic like explosion design for Devastators. These will be painted with a layer of Fiery Orange in the center of the flame with Blazing Orange radiating out.

 

***my suggestiion, eithe rpaint flames to look like flames, or simply paint them as a flat colour highlighted, dont attempt a half way in between type thing...so for orange, add bleached bone to highlight

 

4) Skin tones: I plan on alternating dark and light skin with those Marines without helmets, to pay respect to both the old and new fluff. I'll be using Dark Flesh and Dwarf Flesh respectively but any suggestions how to give them sort of a "singed" look, sort of like someone who's out in the sun all the time?

 

***well, if you mean a tanned skin, then it all starts with not using dwarf flesh! and using tanned flesh instead..or a flesh colour with more red in it(so mixing red into your chosen flesh colours) highlight by adding bleached bone, shade by adding blue/brown or blue/green for dark skin

 

5) Weapons: Tin Bitz with Chaos Black perhaps?

 

***if you wanna go tin bitz, highlight first with dwarf bronze and then add mithril silver to the bronze to highlight again, for chaos black add bleached bone

 

6) Sgt. Helmets: I know Salamander Sgts. wear gold helmets, but does anyone have any suggestions for lens colors that won't be obnoxious?

 

***red

 

7) Any suggestions on how to get the "well used" look on heavy flamers, melta weapons, etc. (that dirty brown heated metal look)

 

**applying wahses of browns and blacks around the tip

 

 

always ask questions if you think you dont understand anything thats been said ;)

 

******grrrr what the heck.......it deleted my post and brought it back!!!....

 

Starks

[Starks333]

heres the quick and sloppy example:

 

is this the ashy result you were thinking? notice you can do more colour in between the bright green and darker green, or dull the highlights a bit...its just an idea for ya ;)

 

**hmm those highlights are brighter in the photo and kinda disrupt the paint job....oh well!

 

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/Starks3333/Tutorial/100_3702.jpg

 

 

Starks

[Mulceber]

2) Most of my figures are already primed black. I want the green to be just a bit dark. I have plenty of Snot Green for the task. I'm planning on using Goblin Green for highlighting the lighter areas and maybe Dark Angel green for shading. Any thoughts?

 

Exactly what I use. I'd recommend using some scorpion green for the really raised surfaces.

 

6) Sgt. Helmets: I know Salamander Sgts. wear gold helmets, but does anyone have any suggestions for lens colors that won't be obnoxious?

 

I'd skip the gold helmets. I've never known any Salamanders player to use them, and frankly, I don't think they'd look that good with green. If you want to paint the helmet a different color, black would probably look the best, although I usually just leave the veteran sergeants with the same color helmets as the other marines. Another (more fluffy way) of dealing with the veteran sergeants would be to put flame motifs on their legs as well.

 

3) For the honorary flame badge, I'm using Legion of the Damned flame shoulder pads on my Tactical Squads. I'm planning on trying to make a flaming wing design on the shoulder pad for Assault Squads and a volcanic like explosion design for Devastators. These will be painted with a layer of Fiery Orange in the center of the flame with Blazing Orange radiating out.

 

Very creative. Love it.

 

5) Weapons: Tin Bitz with Chaos Black perhaps?

 

I prefer boltgun metal (there's a reason they call it that) with black casing for the gun, and gold on the skull/aquilla/wing. Ultimately, when you're painting Salamanders, it helps if you can get some black onto the model, as the green doesn't look so good unless it has black to break it up.

 

7) Any suggestions on how to get the "well used" look on heavy flamers, melta weapons, etc. (that dirty brown heated metal look)

 

put a thin coat of undiluted flesh wash on there, then up close to the muzzle, some REALLY watered down chaos black. Works like a charm:

 

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e41/Mulceber/Miniatures/01670011-1.jpg

 

-Mulceber

[LargeMidget]

Heres a quick and good looking way to get your salamanders done:

 

- Drybrush the armor snot green.

 

- Drybrush boltgun metal onto the metal parts.

 

- Highlight snot green with goblin green, and black with codex grey.

 

- Paint the details like eyes, purity seals, aquila, etc.

 

Should only take you 10 mins per model if you do an assembly line. Should look dark enough for you. Please don't make any of your Salamanders white, they are all sons of Vulkan who was black. It's your call but I'm gonna shake my head in dissapointment if you paint any white guys.

 

Post pics!

[Squiggoth]

I wrote a lengthy reply and then my computer crashed, so here's a shorter version. :)

 

1) This is the most important question. I'm extremely retentive but I'm just starting out with painting. If you have any suggestions on what kinds of things to do to build some experience while hopefully doing a decent job I'd love to hear it. If it means that anything I ask below is beyond me, please say so.

 

Well, best thing to keep in mind when you're just starting is not to expect any miracles. Sounds a bit hard, but on your first models just try to get a feel for the way a brush works and how the paints react (eg some are quite opaque, others are watery).

Also, try to find a painting style that suits you. Some people start messy and tidy things up as they go along, others work neat and precise. Some like to paint large areas first, others do the hard-to-reach areas first, etcetera.

Also, don't start with too many models at once - paint a few single models initially. That way you won't get disheartened/crazy after applying a green basecoat of ten suits of power armour in a row, only to realize that you had rather painted the eye lenses first or something like that. :lol:

 

2) Most of my figures are already primed black. I want the green to be just a bit dark. I have plenty of Snot Green for the task. I'm planning on using Goblin Green for highlighting the lighter areas and maybe Dark Angel green for shading. Any thoughts?

 

Sounds fine for the dark, soothy Salamander look you want to accomplish. If you want the green to be more 'glowy' and reptilian, try Scorpion Green instead of Goblin.

 

4) Skin tones: I plan on alternating dark and light skin with those Marines without helmets, to pay respect to both the old and new fluff. I'll be using Dark Flesh and Dwarf Flesh respectively but any suggestions how to give them sort of a "singed" look, sort of like someone who's out in the sun all the time?

 

A pale, sunburnt skin can easily be done by glazing a model's skin with watered down Red Gore. On the Giant below I painted the skin blueish-grey with ivory highlights and then glazed it a couple of times with Red Gore to make it look sunburnt and 'real'.

A note on Dwarf Flesh - it's a fine ruddy colour, but if you want a bit more realism on your skin mix a drop of Green Ink or Shadow Grey with the Dwarf Flesh. It'll look more natural once you've highlighted it (Dwarf Flesh on its own kind of looks like Barbie Doll skin).

I still think a proper Salamander should be black, by the way. White Salamanders are like blonde Raven Guard with a tan. :lol:

 

Basic color

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/squiggothnurgle/Rare%20Choices/GiantGreen010.jpg

 

After the first glaze

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/squiggothnurgle/Rare%20Choices/GiantGreen012.jpg

 

After a few more glazes

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a285/squiggothnurgle/Rare%20Choices/GiantTorso003a.jpg

 

5) Weapons: Tin Bitz with Chaos Black perhaps?

 

That would make a VERY dark metal colour, but a good colour to paint into the nozzles of melta and burna weapons to show they've been used in battle.

 

6) Sgt. Helmets: I know Salamander Sgts. wear gold helmets, but does anyone have any suggestions for lens colors that won't be obnoxious?

 

Blue works nice with gold, as does red.

 

7) Any suggestions on how to get the "well used" look on heavy flamers, melta weapons, etc. (that dirty brown heated metal look)

 

See question 5. You can also create soot effects by drybrushing the nozzles with Chaos Black, or washing them with brown ink.

[Bannus]

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb150/bannus/zsaldread1.jpg

 

 

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb150/bannus/zsalsquad.jpg

 

This is how I paint mine. Warning - use old brushes for painting green with this technique.

 

1) Spray Chaos Black undercoat and let dry.

 

2) Do what I call a "heavy drybrush" of snot green over the entire model (areas that are to be green anyway). The idea here is pull the paint as thin and even as possible using a bare minimum of paint.

 

3) Repeat the process only covering the larger areas and ignoring the recessed and most shaded areas.

 

4) Repeat again, only covering the large areas easily accessible to light (hint: only use downward strokes at this stage).

 

By this point you have three coats of Snot Green covering most areas with increasing amounts of transparency in the shaded areas.

 

5) The next step is "season to taste" - some players prefer the bluish (darker) green of the Snot Green, others prefer a more 'yellow" (lighter) green for their Salamanders.

 

If you prefer the "bluer" (darker) version, just highlight the very edges of the armor with Scorpion green.

 

If you prefer the more "yellow" (lighter) version (as I paint my Sallies) then also highlight the larger and more obvious "light catching" panels. The more Scorpion Green you use, the more "yellow" (and lighter) the armor looks.

 

This is a very fast an easy way to paint the green. The green on the Terminators in the photo above was finished (except for touch up) in about two to two and a half hours. The end result is five different layers of highlights using the weak and transparent qualities of the green as an advantage instead of a disadvantage.

 

 

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb150/bannus/zsaltermies.jpg

 

Examples painted using the technique described.

 

 

Gold areas:

 

1) Paint Shiny Gold.

 

2) Flesh Ink Wash.

 

3) Burnished Gold highlight.

 

Silver areas:

 

1) Paint Chainmail followed by a watered down coat of Black Ink.

 

The gold and silver areas are pretty straight forward. In order to get a very distict "line" between the green and the gold, I usually paint the gold "almost" to the edge of what I am painting (like the Chest eagle for example) and then paint the ink just a hair width beyond the gold onto the green where is makes a nice, natural dark line to really seperate the areas.

 

Flames:

 

1) Paint panel white.

 

2) Paint a "fade" pattern from the center bottom of the panel outward (in concentric rings) starting with Skull White with just a hint of Sunburst Yellow, moving quickly to pure Sunburst yellow (the white should only cover a small spot in the center bottom of the panel), then gradualy moving to Firey Orange with just a spot of Blood Red.

 

3) Paint the "negative space" black.

 

I have found this to be - by far - the easiest way to paint flames as you avoid the whole issue of trying to get a difinitive edge between such weak pigments like yellow or orange and the black.

 

 

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb150/bannus/zsalsergeant.jpg

 

 

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb150/bannus/zsaldread4.jpg

 

The flames were painted using the technique described above.

 

 

Black areas: Highlight with a mix of Chaos Black and Shadow Grey.

 

 

Applying transfers:

 

When it comes to applying the trransfers, I find it helpful to actually make a few cuts into the transfers so that they lay down easily on the rounded panels. I place one cut right behind the eye ridge and another between the "spikes" and the jaw-line. On really curved or difficult panels, products like Micro-Sol and Micro-Set come in very handy. I then paint over the decal with a light drybrushing of Codex Grey to kill the bright white quality of it and then go back in and paint the black around the trasfer so there is no hint of the transfer material remaining. I sometimes will change the nose or spikes or something to make one or two look a little different.

 

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb150/bannus/zsaldread3.jpg

 

I lengthened the spikes a bit on this particular transfer to make it better fit the panel compositionally.

 

 

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb150/bannus/zsalflamer.jpg

 

This transfer was applied using the method described above.

 

 

Hope this helps.

[Mulceber]

I've always heard that you should make cuts on the transfer, but I never knew exactly where or exactly how long. Is there anyway you could use photoshop or a computer painting tool to demonstrate where, Bannus? -Mulceber

[Bannus]

Pardon the crudity of the image, I drew it quickly - but it gives you an idea of where to make the cuts so the decal lays down nicely.

 

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb150/bannus/zsalamanderdecal.jpg

 

The critical one is the one right behind the eye ridge - that is where the shoulderpad curves the most.

[Mulceber]

No problem, that was exactly what I needed. Thanks. -Mulceber

[Cornelias]

7) Any suggestions on how to get the "well used" look on heavy flamers, melta weapons, etc. (that dirty brown heated metal look)

 

Thanks so much.

 

drybrushing= load you "drybrush" with paint them wipe with tissue till you can very barely see any paint on it, then brush over the area and the paint will catch the edges and surface leaving the recesses free from paint and you base colour showing through.

 

1.i give the whole end of the barrel( be it flamer or melta) a heavy boltgun metal drybrush.

 

2.about halway up drybrush with brazen brass

 

3. about 1/4 of the way up towards the end of the barrel drybrush lightly with black.

 

dead easy and very effective :tu:

[Bannus]

Whoops! I forgot to mention how I do flamer and melta barrels:

 

1) Base Chaos Black.

 

2) Heavy drybush the entire "muzzle break" with Shiny Gold.

 

3) Using a 'fade' pattern, drybrush the muzzle break with Tin Bitz starting at the barrel and fade it out at about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way down the muzzle break.

 

4) Using the same 'fade' pattern, drybrush the muzzle break with Scorched Brown and fade it out no more than half way back from the muzzle break.

 

5) Using the same 'fade' pattern, drybrush the very end of the muzzle break, just use enough black to paint the very front edge of the muzzle break.

 

6) Using Black Ink, paint the end of the barrel area till you meet the Chaos Black edge of the muzzle break.

 

7) Using Tin Bitz, re-paint the end of the barrel to make it stand out.

 

You can see the effect best on the Dreadnought's multi-melta:

 

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb150/bannus/zsaldread3.jpg

[GeneralMaChao]

Wow just wow! Thank you guys for all this useful advice and informative pictures.

 

@stark

Thanks for the advice and painted example. It may just be the picture quality and camera flash but the legs and tabard were too light and the torso too dark for my purposes. It's literally right between those though. Thanks for the advice on flames. What I would have done would have it too bland and the shading would have been too subtle. I also like your tanning technique and will use it. Thank you.

 

@Mulceber

You're right about using Boltgun Metal. I thought it would be too shiny but I later realized I was looking at Mithril Silver or Chainmail and not Boltgun Metal.

 

@bannus and Cornelias

Thanks for that transfer advice. I was worrying about those. Thanks for the muzzle painting techniques from both of you. Cornelias's technique looks like it will be very effective on my smaller weapons. Bannus's for the larger ones.

 

@LargeMidget and Squiggoth

Thanks for your assembly line painting technique and flesh painting techniques. Thinking about it, you guys are right about proper skin color for them. I am thinking about doing it like this though. "Younger" Space Marines will look more distinct from one another (different hair and skin tone from each other) while older Space Marines will have darker hair and skin (how I imagine Vulkan looked). I figure this is consistent with how the Geneseed seems to work (it takes time to grow into the Space Marine and grows as he does, hence why so many Marine recruits have barely hit puberty by the time they go in)

[Mulceber]

Thanks for your assembly line painting technique and flesh painting techniques. Thinking about it, you guys are right about proper skin color for them. I am thinking about doing it like this though. "Younger" Space Marines will look more distinct from one another (different hair and skin tone from each other) while older Space Marines will have darker hair and skin (how I imagine Vulkan looked). I figure this is consistent with how the Geneseed seems to work (it takes time to grow into the Space Marine and grows as he does, hence why so many Marine recruits have barely hit puberty by the time they go in)

 

VERY neat idea! Kindof resembles the raven guard, except they get paler as they get older.

 

So what did you decide about the gold helmets? -Mulceber

[GeneralMaChao]

VERY neat idea! Kind of resembles the raven guard, except they get paler as they get older.

 

So what did you decide about the gold helmets? -Mulceber

 

Yeah exactly! :D

 

I'm gonna take your suggestion about using the Sgt's kneepads as the designator. I am going to paint some gold helmets for my Company Champion and also for my Veterans.

[Custodian Athiair]

hi

 

soon (once i've got my 1st fantasy army ready) i'll be getting a salamander army together

 

so i want to se how good i am at painting them

 

so my question is how should i go about painting these most awsome burny dudes without making them look like burnt catapillars?

 

tips on scorch marks would be nice aswell

 

thanks a lot

 

Athiair :)

[flintlocklaser]

Go to the tutorials section, type "Salamanders" into the search. You will find numerous Sallie recipes.

[Custodian Athiair]

thanks flintlocklaser

 

that is useful but (just to say not meaning to be picky) i am an awful painter i cant use transfers at all. so a little easier ways would be nice but if there isn't i'll try one of the ways mentioned.

 

Athiair <_<

 

ps. i always thought the salamanders were darker than some portray (shrug of shoulders) doesn't matter

[flintlocklaser]

A few of the recipes you'll find are pretty easy. Freehanding the insignia and stuff is just going to take practice - I sure can't do it yet! Good luck with whichever method you pick.

 

ps. i always thought the salamanders were darker than some portray (shrug of shoulders) doesn't matter

 

In the old days (Rogue Trader era or thereabouts) the Dark Angels were all black, and the Sallies were the dark green that GW now calls "DA green." They used to sell that color as "Salamanders Green." So a dark Sally paintjob would be nice and oldschool. I personally like the lighter tone green for them, but it's all personal taste.

[Solid Zaku]

Here's what you do. Give your Sallys a basecoat of Knarloc Green (or Orkhide Shade, depending on how you like) over a Chaos Black prime. Then give them a medium/heavy drybrush of Goblin Green, using Scorpion Green to make highlights. I've found that a 2:1 mix of Brazen Brass:Tin Bitz works well with their hard-forged demeanor. I typically use silver metallics for weapons to give them a good contrast.

[battle captain corpus]

A few of the recipes you'll find are pretty easy. Freehanding the insignia and stuff is just going to take practice - I sure can't do it yet! Good luck with whichever method you pick.

 

ps. i always thought the salamanders were darker than some portray (shrug of shoulders) doesn't matter

 

In the old days (Rogue Trader era or thereabouts) the Dark Angels were all black, and the Sallies were the dark green that GW now calls "DA green." They used to sell that color as "Salamanders Green." So a dark Sally paintjob would be nice and oldschool. I personally like the lighter tone green for them, but it's all personal taste.

You will also find that the Saliies were actually Black and Yellow stripes at one point :down:

Snot green with extreme highlights of scorpion green looks cool.

[Algoroth]

For the Chapter Badges, there's a couple options...

 

1 - White Vinegar. You may see this masquerading around the 'net as Micro-sol for a few dollars a 2oz bottle. Brush some on the shoulder pad, plop the decal on, brush more over the decal. It softens the decal some, allowing it to mold to the pad. You're trying to put a flat object on a curved surface, after all.

 

2 - Stencils. This is a little more labor-intensive, but pays handsomely. Grab yourself a spare shoulder pad, and give it a light coating of baby oil. Mix yourself up a little GS, and spread it out into a thin sheet. Cover the pad with the sheet, and cut your chapter badge out of it. Let the GS cure, and voila! A nice stencil. Slap it onto any plain shoulder pad, paint some white on, and presto! A friend of mine did this with his Sallies (after nearly going mad trying to get the decals to work) with great results. All he needed to actually freehand was the eye of the lizard head.

[Custodian Athiair]

Ok guys same as the title

 

people please give me a simple and quick painting scheme for Sallies please

 

the problem is i have allready painted my army

and so i need tips on how to paint over that

 

i don't have the money for paint stripper (and i ond't know where to find it in shops not internet)

so i will be re-spraying the army

 

 

thanks you guys

 

sorry for the inconvience

 

Athiair :D

[Aryx Blackheart]

Are they plastic or metal models? Because you probably can afford some form of paint stripper. If not, how are your Sallies painted? Kinda depends on how they are painted now as how it would be easiest to change without stripping.

 

Not an inconvience at all!

[Cl4d]

YOu cannot paint over a paintjob and expect it to look good, and paintstripper is like 5$.