FAQ: Painting Salamanders

[Loken of the 10th]

I painted mine using acrylic paint i bought at Wal-Mart (cheap i know but you get more point then GW) which you dont have to paint or wash it gives you a perfect green for Sallies and a btighter green to highlight with

[theredcorsair]

As an addition to what I said above, using a badab black wash might work. I honestly haven't tried it, but it should be good for giving the models more depth.

[Slyfox1990]

I went into a store to get a session on painting Salamanders just yesterday. I was given the session by the best painter in store who is extremely talented and gave me a great scheme to use.

 

1. Basecoat with Knarloc Green

2. Basecoat with Snot Green ( 2 layers may be needed)

3. Highlight with a 2:1 mix of Snot Green: Scorpion Green

4. Highlight with a 1:1 mix of Snot Green : Scorpion Green.

5. Thraka Green Wash

6. Highlight with a 1:1 mix of Snot Green : Scorpion Green

 

 

There are obviously quite a few steps to the process but its not too hard to do. I m not a talented painter but this gives a result which makes me look far far better than I really am. I m going to do some models in the next few days and will post some pictures when I have done.

[Spacelizard]

If you really want to go the above route for painting your salamanders I highly suggest mixing up a decent amount of each of the different color (mix ratios) ahead of time. This will save you a ton of time in the long run so that yo don't have to mix up all that paint every time you paint a mini. This also makes it to where all your minis have the exact same paint job as oppose to some being lighter or darker because you mixed the paint differently.

 

Also, the key to painting army's is to work in batches no matter how you choose to paint. Painting 5 minis at a time will make the process go a lot faster and make the task of painting an entire army feel a lot less daunting. It is basically assembly line painting. I.e. Paint Knarloc green on all 5 minis, then paint your snot green on all 5 minis...etc.

[Codicier Ignatius]

I use a similar method to the one slyfox.uk posted.

 

Basecoat in black, then do a coat of Knarloc Green, trying to leave black in all the recesses. Next, layer on Snot Green until you have a flat coat (usually takes 2 coats to get, 4 or so without the Knarloc Green base). Then I blackline the models to make sure all the recesses are still shaded with black. Finally, I highlight with Camo Green. I used to use Scorpion Green, but Camo Green gives a much more subdued effect.

 

Here are pictures of some of my guys so you can see how this comes out.

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q286/Codicier_Ignatius/P1010976.jpg

 

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q286/Codicier_Ignatius/LightningClaws.jpg

[Huron_Grimm]

Thanks guys some good schemes to try there..

 

I am trying several routes at the moment to see what works best, these are:

 

1) As suggested above by Slyfox.uk (if you get there first post some pics for us to have a look at) & I'll give codicer_ignatius's method a go too as they are pretty nice looking sallies.

 

2) I have just bought an airbrush & small compressor to see what results I can get with this (as I have a tonne of models to get painted). The plan is to use a similar method as descrbed above but using an airbrush to get large numbers done in the base coats.

 

3) Army painter Sprays, I have bought a tin of Green Skin (I thinks this is what it is called) to do a straight to plastic green basecoat, followed by a wash of thraka green or bahdab black then highlited as normal..

 

Anyways once I get a decent looking test model done I'll post it..

 

Thanks again for all the help guys..

[Yeril]

Knarlock Green

Snot Green

Sharp Highlight with Goblin green

Thick Drybrush all over with Goblin green

Heavy wash with Tharakka Green

 

I find the drybrush brings out all the detail in the edges, then the thick wash brings it down to the right shade of green and makes the smooth round plates on space marine armour show up very nicely.

[Forgefather Vulkan]

I do salamanders (as my name suggests), and here's my scheme:

 

1. Undercoat chaos black

 

2. Paint a basecoat of knarlock green on the armour plates, leaving some black in the recesses

 

3. Paint over the knarlock green with snot green (more than on layer may be needed)

 

4. Wash the entire model badab black, be careful the wash doesn't pool

 

5. Highlight the edges if the armour with a mix of snot green and scorpian green

 

6. Do a final highlight of scorpian green on the armour plates (optional though)

 

7. Finally blackline the recesses in black were any paint has spilled or to make sure that it's shaded like in codicer ignatius' tutorial

 

I hope this helps as you sort of get a weathered and not a "tingy" green I you get what I mean

 

Matt

[Evicerator]

Salamander player as well and if you're looking for a slightly faster method with less paint colors (obviously don't expect Master Class paint jobs ;) .)

 

1. Primer using black (I use a flat black Krylon spray from local Wal-Mart for $3. LOL @ $17 GW sprays...)
   
2. 2 thin layers of Snot Green (Mutation Green if using Vallejo) to build up the base coat. This is drybrushed on.
   
3. VERY LIGHT drybrushing of Bad Moon Yellow (Bald Moon Yellow - Vallejo) for highlights. Pick raised edges and go to town. Clean up excess/goofs with Snot/Mutation Green)
   
4. Repaint recessed detail areas (like the designs in Marine leg armor) if necessary.
   
5. Paint rest of mini.
   
6. Takes about 30 minutes a marine start to finish.
   

 

http://www.evicerator.com/evicerator/pictures/warhammer/assaultsquadscomplete.jpg

 

nothing too pro, but when staring at 60+ minis to paint along with vehicles, going into details with highlights means a LOT of work and time.

[satanaka]

As I don't have a camera right now, I can't post pics of my method, but I can at least describe it, step by step.

 

Base all areas to be green with Knarloc Green

Wash with Thraka Green

"Mid - coat" Snot Green (think of this as a second base coat. It makes the Snot Green pop.)

Extreme highlight Scorpion Green on the edges.

"Tone wash" back down with Thraka Green.

 

Done! It's bright, but not overly bright.

[freakytah]

These all look like some sweet tips! I'm hoping to get working on my very first army next week, I just need to go pick up supplies...