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Rhino Mk. 2 to rhino Mk. 1


DeSnifter

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Hello all,

 

I dont come around here too often, but I thought you preheresy dedicated folks might appreciate this. It always bugged me that people have the wrong rhinos in their preheresy armies, myself included, so I went and made myself a conversion template. The template works and has been finalized, though I havent finished building my first rhino, just enough to make sure the template is satisfactory. It includes all the components necessary to convert your Mk. II's into Mk. 1's. The template has the instructions for where to cut and where to score. Scoring is not necessary, it just aids in even and proper placement of components.

 

Additionally, the plasticard pieces that go above the tracks are intentionally slightly too wide. This is to allow you to file down the pieces to ensure a smooth edge with no gaps and to make sure you have a nice sharp corner. Lets be honest, no one is going to build their rhinos to the exact same size. Finally, the track pieces that go above the front and rear track openings are intentionally long. This is to also allow you to file them smooth to the plastic kit making a flush edge. Rivet placement has been altered accordingly to accomodate any filing youd need to do.

 

A final reccomendation is to use my rivet placements to drill tiny holes with your hobby knife while the template is still on the plasticard, this is a life saver when trying to place rivets later on! TRUST ME! If anyone needs it on A4 instead let me know.

 

If you would like this template, just pm me with your email and I will send it to you.

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Now go forth and make legions of old school rhino's! ;)

 

WIP

 

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt55/desnifter/rhino7.jpg

 

Compared to Mk 2

 

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt55/desnifter/rhino9.jpg

 

First Iteration with old style doors

 

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt55/desnifter/rhino6.jpg

 

Bolter dome conversion using mk2 components

 

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt55/desnifter/bolterdome5.jpg

 

Hopefully mine will be done by the end of this week.

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Good work there, I like your ideas. You methods achieve an excellent look and seem relatively simple. One thing I would look into detailing further is the round side port, as they stand now I'm not sure how they're supposed to open. I know they're a replica of the MkI Rhino ports but given that the new model kit has more detail I think you should see if you can make a more detailed representation that matches the rest of the kit better. That being said, it would be more work and effort and what you have already looks very good indeed.

 

Have you thought abour applying your skills to making something similar for the Land Raider?

 

Also, I'd be interested in knowing where you got those rivets from.

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Thanks for the support guys,

 

@stratokhan

 

RIVETS!!!!

 

I was looking for a solution to match the rivets on the gw rhino, knowing that when I put on the plasticard I would lose alot of detail, and also that the old Mk I had rivets in key locations. Well, after 45 minutes at Michaels arts and crafts here in the US I came upon these wonderful things.

 

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt55/desnifter/rivet1.jpg

 

They might make that anniversary scrap book absolutely fabulous, but in the 41st millenium they are the god emperors rivets, bringing devine mechanical solidarity to the heretics. Ahem...

 

Anyways, to go about making rivets on the rhino template I sent out, first you want to use your hobby knife to drill tiny guide holes WHILE THE TEMPLATE IS STILL ON!!!! I cannot stress this enough! I forgot to do it on part of the other side of my rhino and it was a huge pain in the *** to line em up again. I made the stupid thing and forgot myself! Once you have ALL the guide holes drilled into the piece in question, you can take off the template and then use your pin vice to create a small crater in the plastic.

 

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt55/desnifter/rivet4.jpg

 

When I did this I didnt press down with the pin vice, so much as I let the weight of the vice itself press into the plastic. You dont want an actual pin tunnel, you just want a hemisphere that the little glass bead will sit into about halfway.

 

Once you have all your rivet craters, you want to take some super glue, squirt it somewhere useful like on a spare piece of plastic, and keep it handy. You then want to use a pin or needle to transfer a tiny bit of super glue from your puddle to the rivet crater.

 

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt55/desnifter/rivet3.jpg

 

Personally, I use zap a gap for this because it flows very easily into the rivet craters and doesnt dry too quick. Once you have the zap a gap in your crater, you want to take some of your scrap book rivets, push you finger into them so you get a few to stick onto your finger, and you want to roll your finger so that the rivet "falls" into the rivet crater.

 

http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt55/desnifter/rivet2.jpg

 

You dont want to just stick it in, because you will get glue on you and create a mess. Just sort of roll your finger off into the crater. Once the rivet is in the proper hole, just use the other side of your fingernail, or the flat end of a hobby knife to press it into the crater to ensure a nice strong bond.

 

And there you have it, rivets that will last you 500 years both in quantity and quality! I got sick of my PVA rivets falling off. They come in all sorts of colors, I just happened to buy christmas ones. No idea if they have them in the UK or elsewhere around the world but I'm sure a large craft store would have something similar.

 

Until the next update, take care everyone and I want to see peoples own rhinos that used this to see how theirs came out!

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Did you guys do this to basically make a 'fatter' Mk1? Personally, I love the Mk2 design a LOT better than it's predecessor. Not to say I hate it, I just like the Mk2 better, since it looked like you could at least theoretically fit a five man inside of it.
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Don't get me wrong, I think the MkII is a great tank. But it is the incorrect tank to use for a preheresy army. I do like the old MkI alot, but it shows its age a bit these days, and it's nice to have this MkI at the "proper" scale. I just did it for fun really, I use both types for my armies depending on what period they are from. Mainly, I just wanted to see if I could do it.
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Did you guys do this to basically make a 'fatter' Mk1? Personally, I love the Mk2 design a LOT better than it's predecessor. Not to say I hate it, I just like the Mk2 better, since it looked like you could at least theoretically fit a five man inside of it.

 

I'm with Zaku. While I have a Mk1 Predator, I like the all-plastic Mk2 kits, because they have greater detail and aren't so frappin' small.

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DeSnifter, that's great info on the rivets, I'm glad you posted pictures too, that really helps of course. I might see if I can turn that rivet sequence into a tutorial if you wouldn't mind?

 

If I could suggest one thing it would be to see if you can obtain an icon from one of those bitz trading shops. I know they didn't allow any of the Imperial forces (apart from the Emperor's Children) to bear the double-headed eagle icon, but some Imperial guard vehicles like the Chimera have this winged skull piece that looks quite nice and would fit the Heresy-era background. I think that an addition like that would really add some detail to the piece. Maybe you know an Imperial Guard player that hasn't used his. It might be molded onto the turret though, I don't remember though.

 

Did you guys do this to basically make a 'fatter' Mk1? Personally, I love the Mk2 design a LOT better than it's predecessor. Not to say I hate it, I just like the Mk2 better, since it looked like you could at least theoretically fit a five man inside of it.

 

I'm with Zaku. While I have a Mk1 Predator, I like the all-plastic Mk2 kits, because they have greater detail and aren't so frappin' small.

 

Well, I think that's why he converted one, to reconcile the Heresy-look with the more realistic size. And there's still a lot of detail on this conversion, so that's not a problem. As I mentioned, maybe a winged skull emblem such as the one on the Chimera might add a bit of simple yet effective detail to the kit.

 

Personally I think that older GW stuff has such a good Heresy feel because it looks a bit more basic. It's a good visual nod to the larger, more basic mass-produced items that such a vast military undertaking as the Heresy might logically have required. The newer stuff with its greater detail and more advanced looking parts fits in more with the small refinements that came with 10,000 years of STC recoveries.

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Veeeery nice, tho personally I'd go with a modern style side door as its more in keeping with the blocky look especially when you keep the new engine sponsons.

 

Actually I don't think I would ever use this method with a MkII kit, if your going to cover a kit with that much plasticard you might as well go all the way and not bother using the kit at all.

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