How would you paint chipping on a black model?

[Liquid_awesomes]

So i got the latest WD, and im keen to try out the chipping effect showed in the masterclass on my marines. Ive painted up a lone Guard to have a go, but does anyone know how to do it to black? Its rather vital becuase my scheme is black with bone trimming.

[Skoby]

I've had problems getting chipping to look effective on black marines, but I've seen it done well on tanks and the method they used was to sponge on the basecolour showing through (chainmail looks good I think) then highlight the lower edge of the chips with the same colour you use to highlight your black. I've seen this look really good, but I will admit when I tried it on a spare shoulder pad it didn't look nearly as good, but I think it just takes a steady hand and practice.

[faol]

I can't remember I seen it at but I think doing chipping paint on black as to use tin bitz first then boltgun metal, however dont quote me on that but it does stick out in mind :huh:

[Lkyworld]

Try a very very small line of codex gray with a feint highlight of codex and fortress mix? If that's to light try add small amounts of black to get your desired affect?

[DrussTheLegend]

Dude check out the hairspray method

[S. Bloodhowl]

Here's how i do it:

 

1-because nothing can naturally reflect pure black,basecoat the armour with a 1:1 adeptus battle grey:chaos black mix

2-focusing on the recesses, wash the armour in badab black (not to heavily). this will give you a very dark grey rather than black.

3-highlight the armour as you would.

4-use pure chaos black as your shade for the battle damage (or if you want a more metallic look tin bitz)

5- this is optional. apply to the black a boltgun metal/chainmail highlight to the opposite side from which the light is coming (eg, if its coming from the top highlight the bottom, if its coming from the left highlight the right)

6-in the same way as the metal above, highlight the edge of the chip with the final highlight used on the armour.

 

Lengthy but a good outcome.

[badabwarvet]

THE OFFICIAL BEST WAY TO DO CHIPPING ON BLACK POWER ARMOUR BELOW=

 

http://www.necrotales.com/necroGalleries/m...p?g2_itemId=304

 

Anyone know how it was done?

 

 

 

 

 

I am doing iron hands currently, and Ive done up 8 marines in this way=

 

Chaos black undercoat spray

Watered down chaos black painted over to darken it a bit

Drybrush all metal parts, shoulder pad rims, and bionics with a series of metallic colors, wash, then final drybrush of chainmail.

Go over the parts that I didnt mean to drybrush with chaos black again

Pick out bolter casings and details in desired colors

AND, LASTLY.....here comes the super hard part....

 

Create chipping with fine lines of mithril silver on the edges of the armor. (this must be very un-uniform to look real)

 

This is the same method used by Fil dunn's Orks on the Tale of 4 gamers in White Dwarf, and it surprisingly looks awesome. Rev also used it on his Iron hands, which is how I decided to do it. This can look very good if done right. Thing is, im no good at painting straight lines, which I will have to do VERy well if I want to use this method on my vehicles.

Looks like im going to use the salt or hairspray method on my vehicles, and this mithril silver chipping on my marines.

Hope it looks ok.

I'll get pics up tomorrow

[dick dudero]

I would use the hairspray method. here's a link. let me know if you need any more info. :D

[Tabgoi]

The method I always used, and there is some paint on the outside of my pots from one spilling so I amy get some names wrong, but do an area the size of the chip you want with boltgun metal. Do a half and half of boltgun and chain mail. Straight chain mail, then chain mail and mithril. All of these are watered down by at least half, each layer should be just SLIGHTLY smaller then the last. Then wash it. If you are going for fresher damage use a straight black ink watered down at least 1 part ink to 4 parts water. For rust it would be more like 1 part black ink, 2 parts brown ink, 8 parts water (I tend to just use the drops from the bottom of my brush to measure). If you are doing the rust then stop here, for fresh battle damage though, take the brush, get the tip nice and pointed and put a small dab of straight mithril right in the center to reflect where the round actually hit. It takes some time, and by some I mean a lot with a careful hand but this is about the only part of painting minis I am good at.

 

A great painter spent a couple hours smacking me on the knuckles with a ruler until I got it right. The plus side is every time I pull out my furiouso dreadnaught they ignore my horrible looking sarcophagus and go nuts over the battle damage and rust. A a bonus, once you have the rust wash ready you might as well do the rivets. Just take a small brush and put a TINY spec of mithril on each one, just enough to cover the top. Then, when it dries load a brush with the rust wash and touch the very tip of it to the rivet. It takes a little practice but when you get it down the rust wash will, with a slight touch, go down around the rivet and give a beautiful rusted rivet look and it is really fast to do. At least on an individual basis, maybe 2 to 5 seconds a rivet, but a lot of these models have a lot of rivets.