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my LPC


shan vener

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You should really prime your models only once you are finished assembling them, or have built them ready to be fitted together. I am guessing you had the idea to swap the hand on the Exsanguinator/Narthecium after you had primed him though?
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You should really prime your models only once you are finished assembling them, or have built them ready to be fitted together. I am guessing you had the idea to swap the hand on the Exsanguinator/Narthecium after you had primed him though?

i primed him ready to be assembled and his former hand was a hand flamer.

and here's some progress on him also. i started to pick out details in blood red, snot green, dheneb stone, chaos black and boltgun metal. the power axe is done with chaos black with a shining gold drybrush.

gallery_47202_4814_1419906.jpg

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I agree, a badab black wash all over the whole model (red included) would make a positive impact. If you are ambitious enough, you can highlight after the wash with a bit of white on the edges and tips of the armor to make sure it looks white and not grey.
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well after doing that i really regret doing it. while yes the model seemed to be unfinshed to me that process took me back to square zero. 90% of the other colors are gone and the model my have to be stripped. as much as I hate this situation i have no one to blame but myself.

:HQ: :wallbash: :wallbash:

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its allright, like i said it's my fault i shouldn't have done that on a model that may not take a drybrush layer well.

I will have to strip him and he may end up red (white is REALLY hard to do right) with white pads.

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Yes, white can be hard, depending on then level of shading you would want. If you're looking for an all white model with limited amount of work I would recommend priming white, since you have it. hitting everything in fortress grey, highlighting with a mix of fortress grey and white, then hitting final layer with white. Its only 3 layers, but there really isnt a super quick way for a great looking white. I would consider how much time you want to take per model, and maybe change the color theme of your army for a project time you can live with. Getting large amounts of white to look good is a monumental amount of labor.
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You should really prime your models only once you are finished assembling them,

 

 

NO. But the rest of your post...good advice.

 

 

lol. Agreed. ;)

 

edit: misread what Nagol put... It makes sense to prime when you get done putting guys together.

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You should really prime your models only once you are finished assembling them,

 

 

NO. But the rest of your post...good advice.

 

 

lol. Agreed. :D

 

edit: misread what Nagol put... It makes sense to prime when you get done putting guys together.

 

 

test fitting of models yes, putting together...no...unless going for quick tabletop paint job..then do it. The only time I start putting my guys together is when I am working on final highlights, but for the most part i know what areas need to be darker or lighter due to test fitting. Really makes it easier to paint the guy when he doesnt have arms/guns attached and its just torso and legs to paint...and back pack. I seriously need to get my camera up and going to I can take some quality pics.

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test fitting of models yes, putting together...no...unless going for quick tabletop paint job..then do it. The only time I start putting my guys together is when I am working on final highlights, but for the most part i know what areas need to be darker or lighter due to test fitting. Really makes it easier to paint the guy when he doesnt have arms/guns attached and its just torso and legs to paint...and back pack. I seriously need to get my camera up and going to I can take some quality pics.

 

I have 7 layers of of colors on my guys and I paint them completely put together unless they have their arms over their chest (hammer, bolter). If you have tons of layers I find it -way- easier to paint them put together for color matching. That is just me though.

 

My BA -> http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=216155

 

edit: I paint the jet packs separate as well.

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i'll put my guys together as much as possible, without obscuring details. More important when you are doing heavy conversions of course. on a standard marine i'll put them together minus guns and packs, usualy.

 

BUt there is no BETTER way to do something, you do it how you are comfortable. i know enough painters who will do it all sorts of ways.

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I put my guys more or less together then paint them. No single way. I lost track of the original post. Did the badab black wash over skull white work or not? I'm just starting with white armour. All my marines are black basecoat. So I did a light grey as the actual armour colour (Fortress grey) the white everywhere except deep shadows, then white high lights. I would normally do a wash but black over white sounds risky, Blue?
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After you said you'd ruined your model i did a test mini with Skull white base and then washed badab then dry brushed white. Her is the Before:

 

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll361/Spanner6054/WP_000023-1.jpg

 

 

And after:

 

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll361/Spanner6054/WP_000025.jpg

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well after doing that i really regret doing it. 90% of the other colors are gone and the model my have to be stripped
That's terrible! What happened? Did you use badab black wash or a black ink? Because badab black just doesn't cover everything up in one wash like that...
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After you said you'd ruined your model i did a test mini with Skull white base and then washed badab then dry brushed white. Her is the Before:

 

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll361/Spanner6054/WP_000023-1.jpg

 

 

And after:

 

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/ll361/Spanner6054/WP_000025.jpg

 

well, that model does look great. but remember what my priests torso is. it has a lot of raised edges which hold drybrushed paint to well and cover up previous paint (or i did wrong). but it'll all work out i'll start work on my other priest (this time red).

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