maverike_prime Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 So question: Can anyone point me to a tutorial for resin casting that lists the types and names of materials it uses? Specifically a tutorial that will use material that is suitable for model building? I'm not looking to copy any of the GW stuff, but rather some of my own developments. You know, those things that you can do right once, maybe twice but then you realize you need to do it 40 times sort of thing. I've found a couple tutorials on Youtube, but they never mention anything involving glues or acryllic based paints. In fact most of the ones I've seen talk about using spray paint to paint the final item. So I donno how well they're work with GW paints or being attached to plastic and pewter models. Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickerman385 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 This guy has a nice set of videos about casting your own resin bases. http://www.youtube.com/user/LathanM#p/u/67/Rc5h-mNmPD4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maverike_prime Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 but he doesn't say what resin he's using. Unless I missed one of the videos anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwulf Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 In my experiments with casting, I have had good results from Alumilite's line of resin and RTV. I haven't done much casting for several years though. It's not exactly cheap resin, but I had consistently good results with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanhausen Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 I use RTV 801 silicone and poliurethane resin. You can paint it no problem as if it was normal GW plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forgeman Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 I use Polyurethane Fast Cast Resin and you can easily paint over it, no problems at all, once resin sets you should be able to paint over it as easily as anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickerman385 Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 In this video he shows you how he mixes the resin. The brand name is "amazing". http://www.youtube.com/user/LathanM#p/u/59/kG7AVSq6K2M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wickerman385 Posted January 24, 2011 Share Posted January 24, 2011 You mite also want to check out his purity seal objective markers. A really cool idea. http://www.youtube.com/user/LathanM#p/u/1/cAUAPzAE8EA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debauchery101 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 i have had the same trouble finding tutorials that answer the questions im looking for. i had to go out and experiement myself. just so happens my first run was two days ago. i am on the mission to make 100 nurgling bases. i started with the somewhat cheap allumilite rubber mold starter kit. it was like $15 US. its not a bad kit and the bases are starting to get better with the more runs im doing. ill list some key notes for you that ive found ot myself and what friends have told me. 1-the faster the resin sets the more bubbles youll get 2-mixing a bit extra resin is better than not having enough. i tried to conserve what i was using the first couple of times and ended up with 2 castings that i had to make extra resin for and now the cast definately looks like i made two pours on the one model. 3- be aware that bubbles form after the resin heats up and a toothpick softly prodded in the areas that the bubbles would get caught up in while rising up to your fill opening will help this. again refering to my first note the slower the cure the less bubbles. 4-when making the mold make sure theres good beefy walls to the mold like at least 1/2 inch or 1-2 cm. with rubber moulds youll end up needing to bend and flex the mold to get the model's small protrusions out of the recessed areas of the mold. 5- do not make one part rubber molds with models that have large protrusions ie... very extended arms, weapons, spikes or anything that will stick far out to the side or towards your fill opening or you would be able to pull the model from your rubber mold without damaging either the mold or model. 6-to cast models that have spread legs or extending arms or stuff youll need to model in a joining piece so the cast wont trap the model. here is a quick diagram http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a130/hammered187/mold.png the red areas are the part youll need to model extra which can be cut out after you make the cast but will allow you to make most models like this with a 1 part rubber mold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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