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True scale marine


sioka

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Philip's interpretation of the Astartes is very nice, but the increased size of the terminators without armour is very much something of his own creation rather than anything canon. You'd be best to keeping them the same size as regular marines without armour to be fair. He does post here under the name Philip S so it's always worth PMing him if you want to brain storm as he's a nice bloke.

I agree, just stick to the regular marine size!

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Sure do! link here. To be honest, although this webby is a little bit concept the ideas Philip has for the skeleton and musculature are pretty much spot on. :devil:

 

My only critisim would be that the teres major and minor are only just visible and some other way of adding strength to the shoulder would be needed in relation to the back and sides of the chest.

I agree on that, the Teres Major would need to be much bigger but at least these pictures give you a good idea on what an Astartes body would look like. At least 99% of it anyway. :D

 

That's some very useful information there.

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Thing about Phil's site is that although he has some pretty off-the-wall theories, his anatomical design of an Astartes looks most like the muscle distribution that a giant version of us would really have. His Marines look like human bears, basically.

 

I choose to simply ignore his "terminators are bigger" theory (which he points out as being "optional" anyway). You can tell from the minis themselves that even though the Termie models are generally bigger, the crotches and heads of both classes of armour are more or less at the same relative heights, and thus GW's intention is probably that the exact same size of Battle-Brother is inside both.

 

On topic, I will agree with everyone else so far that this is truly the absolute best truescaling I have ever seen. It looks like Karl Kopinski's and Paul Dainton's art come to life.

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Thing about Phil's site is that although he has some pretty off-the-wall theories, his anatomical design of an Astartes looks most like the muscle distribution that a giant version of us would really have. His Marines look like human bears, basically.

Definately.

 

I choose to simply ignore his "terminators are bigger" theory (which he points out as being "optional" anyway).

Very much so, his ideas about Terminators being bigger physically hold no weight in the fluff.

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:D ninja returns, just a quickie as I have been working on other projects. I decided to reduce the width of the top of the back pack and I have also added the bottom half of the surround for the gubbinz (cables) and the middle portion on the rear. I decided to do a quickie skull for the belt seeing as I have removed the first one because it was pants. This means that I have the last couple of bits to do on the back pack, make some purity seals and scrape away a couple of mould lines.......then I get to paint the thing :D.

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Ice cream and B movie time...... :ph34r: ninja out.

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Thanks mate, he is so close to finnished now ... just want to paint him :wacko:. I hate this part of a project because its when I think of all the stuff I would do differently or change if possible. sadly this update is not much and I was hoping to get the back pack finnished today but commission stuff has yet again used up all the time.
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Wow, looking really good (as always!) The small changes you've made have really improved the overall look.

 

Watching this thread and the bits you've started on for me has inspired me to buy some clay shapers and give it a go myself, they're superb bits of kit! I've only just started to play about with then but they've really improved my GS work already!

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Your marine and the breastplate you are doing for that one guy are truly something to behold. I love this. I have restarted my truescale Death Company marines over about four times at the very least. I have the hardest time with the details on the legs. I have some questions if you have the time to answer.

 

1. Is your mixture mainly yellow or blue or an even mix of the two? It looks like it is more yellow than blue to me.

 

2. When do you do the detailing on the legs? When I say detailing I am talking about the lines on the legs. I do mine when as soon as the legs are smooth but my lines are not nearly as crisp as yours.

 

3. When doing the detailing do you use a scalpel, clay shapers, or a dental pick?

 

I don't know if it's the tool I am using, the time I am doing the detailing or my utter lack of skill. Any advice?

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<_< Thanks to all for the support and I am happy that you guys are still enjoying this little project, with any luck my next post will be the finished sculpt ready for paint.

The questions about sculpting tools have been asked many times so here is a pic of my sculpting tool selection at the moment.

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Working from right to left we have 11 (should be 12 but I forgot to put the last one out!) Gale Force sculpting tools, these will do anything you need providing they are clean and well looked after.

Next is a small selection of Clay Shapers, I wont lie I use these lots mostly because they save so much time.

An old scalpel blade, this sucker is so usefull. I use this to cut away still soft putty as it stops draging and also for very fine lines, keep it clean and its a tool you couldn't be without.

Home made long needle in an old pen body, if you need fine detail try this. This is my main home made tool at the moment.

Games Workshop Hobby Spade, this is my if I need to bulk out an armature or fill in a gap tool and is rarely used as it is isanely low quality and has a very grainy finish.

Tweezers, when fingers are too big. Also good for hair, fur and fire.

A complete scalpel, this is the clean one and super sharp. I use this for cutting putty that is nearly set.

Thanks Seva glad you like, in answer to you questions.

1 my putty mix varies depending on what properties I want, for standard detail bits such as skulls or flex tube in leg joints I use a 60-40mix yellow-blue simply because this is the ratio in the standard roll of green stuff. When I am sticking putty on to things like for rivets I use more yellow as it is more sticky, if I want more sharp detail I add more blue. If I want good sharp edges like on armour plates I add Milliput to the mix, this also lets you sand things back.

2 patience is key my friend. Take an old scrap figure or anything you can sculpt on, make two nice smooth flat areas. Now on one try your standard technique of making a line across it, you will notice that when you apply presure to the putty that it warps and bulges out away from the cut..... Go and sit with a cup of tea and watch a movie for an hour or so, after an hour return to your sculpt and try making a line on the other flat area. You will notice that where the putty has been left to cure it is less fluid and will be less prone to warping and will take sharp detail better. Experiment with this on scrap stuff as your time frame will vary on the heat you are working in and also the humidity, you can get real nice sharp detail in to putty that is 2-3 hours old.

3 this is the one I cant answer and is down to personal preference. For the fine pannel lines on the legs I use a combo of scalpel blade and home made needle tool but in some areas I would use other tools, the skulls I mostly use clay shapers as it is a lot of smooth biological shapes but for hard edges the dental tools are perfect.

Above all dont be afraid of making mistakes after all you will only learn by pushing the putty about, also use the apropriate lube for the putty... water is o.k for Green Stuff but more prone to drag and will not work on Milliput. I tend to use Vaseline on most stuff and make a little mound on the back of my hand to roll the tool in as I work.

Hope you folks get some use out of all that, time for lunch.

Ninja out ;)

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Thank you for the reply to those questions. I think my mixture of greenstuff might have been a bit heavy on the yellow side. I am going to mix it up tonight with more blue and see what results that will yield. Good to know about the waiting on the details. I think that should help my work quite a bit. I am going to get to work right now. Thanks again!
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:P Evening all, well it looks like you get another peek before its finished ready for paint and I get to sneak about in here at night again :P . I have completed the back pack apart from some rivets and some purity seals (maybe some with feathers), still not sure what to do for the lower vents... ideas please. Here are a couple of close up shots of the back pack, there are some bits that could be lots better like the very top pannel and the skull on the back (I might get rid of it and resculpt). Also I know there is a mould line on the helmet don't fret it will vanish before any paint is put on!

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The shoulder pads are now finished with all rivets, there is a possibility I may add a purity seal to the right side pad although I'm not sure about this and may just add them to the leg and torso area as I dont want to block the squad markings.

Both arms are complete now and all the rivets are in place on the power fist, the bolter has been cleaned up with the normal site removed and a scope fitted. Again I may do more work to this and add a cable from the back of the scope to the inside of the wrist, I will be pinning the arms to the body to enable me to add the bottom portion of the shoulder joint housing as this still needs to be done.

My final decision will be to add some grenades and ammo pouches etc... I am still unsure about this.

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Well there you go folks thats todays fun I'm off for some ice cream and movie action, Ninja out ;)

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This is amazing, I would love to try some true scale marines (Like at least 90% of marine players I'm sure heh). But my lack of dedication to the constructing side holds me back.

 

Looks awesome, totally awesome. One of the best true scale marines I have seen, cant wait to see it painted :)

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