Sandalphon Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Lookin good SG :lol: , i agree the marine on the right looks the better of the two, maybe if you water down the sepia a bit on the second coat (say 50/50, 60/40) you'll get back to it looking more like the first pic (devlan only) with that tint of worn yellow. You may indeed want a second coat of devlan just to pick up those deeper recesses. If you want a crispy white recipe i undercoat the area with shadow grey, then add a layer of space wolves grey, pick up the feathers with skull white and then a final layer of skull white for the feather tips to bring them out - no black and no washes, works a treat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeussS Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 This is where the difficult part of painting the models starts. I did a test run on two of my left over Shadowguards Chapter assault marines who had been previously primed with white and spravyed with bleached bone.... Nice work SG. I concur with the others that the devlan mud version looks better in the photos. Question, is that bleached bone spray via a can or airbrush? I ask for I haven't seen a spray can of bleached bone in years! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shadow Guard Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 It's bleached bone spray from a can... three cans left over from 6 years ago.... one was nearly empty and blocked , one nearly empty and one full. Hadn't realised it was no longer available. I did use my airbrush and compressor to do bleached bone for my Shadow Guard's armour long ago... but couldn't be bothered setting it allup again.. Obviously had just enough to do the sprays. :P SG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shadow Guard Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 I have to admit it has been a great ride and will continue to be so, but three days ago i came to the conclusion that I will not be able to complete the LPC vow in time. It is slightly disappointing for me but it was a weighed decision to accpet reality early and come clean. ^_^ The main reason (apart from being able to only spend time on this project during wekends in any meaningful manner) is the decision I made early when i began experimenting with my sculpting. I decided that I would glue the terminators in their final positions so that I could add the GS content, mainly the purity seals and giant feathers in a dynamic fashion reflecting movement and gravity based on their posture. I knew it would make the final painting harder but didn't realise how much harder and slower it would make it. On Sunday night, when all three coats of the washes had dried, i considered whether i should simply use four colours, black, white, green and red to provide basic details, paint the bases green and complete the vow at a minimalistic level. I couldn't do that given the amount of work i had ut in to these models and the resurgence of passion for the hobby. I just have to continue plodding along carrying the banner of failure... but.. I am not really disappointed... I managed to nearly complete a entire deathwing army and will do so soon. I achieved a number of firsts: B) - First time doing green stuff sculpting - first SG robe - first time using washes I will cintinue the blog in the usual fashion. I really congratulate all those Dark Angels players who have already completed their vows!! and so the saga continues...... PHASE IIIA White Undercoat http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3_DW_Squad_00_03.jpg Bleached Bone Overcoat http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3_DW_Squad_00_04.jpg Individual Squads after the overcoat showing the incomplete nature of the spray on completed models. http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3_DW_Squad_01_01.jpg DW Squad 1 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3_DW_Squad_02_01.jpg DW Squad 2 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3_DW_Squad_03_01.jpg DW Squad 3 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3_DW_Squad_04_01.jpg DW Squad 4 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3_DW_Squad_05_01.jpg DW Squad 5 (Command Squad) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shadow Guard Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 Phase IIIB So i got touching up Bleached Bone manually in to all the little crevices and joints. This is when it started dawning on me that things might be a little difficult later on...duuhhh... http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3B_DW_Squad_01_01.jpg DW Squad 1 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3B_DW_Squad_02_01.jpg DW Squad 2 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3B_DW_Squad_03_01.jpg DW Squad 3 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3B_DW_Squad_04_01.jpg DW Squad 4 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3B_DW_Squad_05_01.jpg DW Squad 5 (Command Squad) http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3B_DW_Squad_05_02.jpg GM Belial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shadow Guard Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 Phase IIIC two coats of Devlan Mud. The first very tentatively applied to the joints, linings and crevices. I became braver and splashed more around for the second coat. Might have overdone things a little. It's still tedious work to wash two layers on the 26 models!! :huh: http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3C_DW_Squad_01_01.jpg DW Squad 1 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3C_DW_Squad_02_01.jpg DW Squad 2 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3C_DW_Squad_03_01.jpg DW Squad 3 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3C_DW_Squad_04_01.jpg DW Squad 4 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3C_DW_Squad_05_01.jpg DW Squad 5 (Command Squad) http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3C_DW_Squad_05_02.jpg GM Belial Phase IIID Decided on a third coat of wash, this time using Gryphonne Sepia, aiming to get a little more off-yellow effect. http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3D_DW_Squad_01_01.jpg DW Squad 1 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3D_DW_Squad_02_01.jpg DW Squad 2 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3D_DW_Squad_03_01.jpg DW Squad 3 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3D_DW_Squad_04_01.jpg DW Squad 4 http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3D_DW_Squad_05_01.jpg DW Squad 5 (Command Squad) http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3D_DW_Squad_05_02.jpg GM Belial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shadow Guard Posted March 29, 2011 Author Share Posted March 29, 2011 Phase IIIE: Detailing So I have finally reached the detailing stage. I plan to do the following: First, the blacks for the weapons, metal tubing and crux terminator and other icons which will either get boltgun dry rbush or in the case of the latter grey and white drybrush to mimick a stone effect. Second the whites. All wings in the models will be white and I plan to try Sandalphon's suggestions. Third the greens for the robes, tabards, SB casings and angels robes. Fourth the Reds for the swords and eyes and lenses. Not quite sure at present if the right shoulder pad mtif should all be red including feathers) or just the sword with the wings being white. Finally the blues for the power weapons.... I will try and do some sort of sheen / lightning etc.. The I would plan to touch up with bleached bone or slightly mixed with white and finally highlight edges with white. That's the plan and I think it will ake me a good three to four weekends...... Oh and won't forget the bases. For the rest of the WIP I will only display Squad 1 to limit the numer of images and to make it easier to follow. You will find more details on my Deathwing Army Blog http://fortressofunforgiven.homestead.com/Temp_LPC_Ph3E_DW_Squad_01_01.jpg DW Squad 1 with black udnercoats for gun casings, metal tubings and skull icons. Obviously your comments and criticisms are welcome as always and my humble apologies for letting the community down by not completing the LPC vow. My heartiest congratulations to all those unforgiven who have honoured the lion and the legion by participating and completing their vows! :huh: SG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayJ Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 These models are gonna absolutely pop once you get the details. Learning to work with the washes leads to incredible time saving and some really nice effects. Keep up the great work! Edit: for the green robes and tabards, I'll give you my recipe, since my chapter uses those as well: Step 1: Foundation Paint - Knarlock Green (gets a good green base to work with) Step 2: Goblin Green (a smooth coat of this gives you the nice bright base color you want for working with the washes) Step 3: Multiple coats of Thraka Green wash. This applied in thin layers builds up to a very rich green and leaves raised portions and edges already highlighted via the goblin green. You can see the end effect on the robes here: http://haawgs.net/MGalleryItem.php?id=353http:// Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kizzap88 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 These models are gonna absolutely pop once you get the details. Learning to work with the washes leads to incredible time saving and some really nice effects. Keep up the great work! Edit: for the green robes and tabards, I'll give you my recipe, since my chapter uses those as well: Step 1: Foundation Paint - Knarlock Green (gets a good green base to work with) Step 2: Goblin Green (a smooth coat of this gives you the nice bright base color you want for working with the washes) Step 3: Multiple coats of Thraka Green wash. This applied in thin layers builds up to a very rich green and leaves raised portions and edges already highlighted via the goblin green. You can see the end effect on the robes here: http://haawgs.net/MGalleryItem.php?id=353http:// actually the same way i paint the robes on my guys too. nice and easy. As to the washing over the armour The Shadow Guard, i find using Gryphonne Sepia over the bleached bone gives a more gentle wash (if that makes sense) and then you can touch the model up with Bleached bone and such as needed.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chyper1 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Just looked through this thread, and I gotta say that you are doing some amazing work on your Terminators. I've also gotten a few ideas on how to paint my own DA's as well(bonus ^_^ ). But I got one question (so far): How do you do what you have done with your green stuff? (emblems, purity seals, feathers, etc.) The few times I've tried using greens stuff the result has been rather....not to satisfying. Do you have any tips/hints as to using green stuff? Again, your Terminators look awsome and I'm really looking forward to see it completed at some point in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanhausen Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Its sad to read you dropped the vow :) When I did by terminators last year, I got burned out with the magnets (26 bodies, 52 weapons)... and then painting them. I hope you chill a bit but continue to find some time everyday/weekend to advance! Even if its only half an hour after dinner, just so the project doesn't get stopped ^_^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandalphon Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 ^_^ There's still time!! j/k you've put in a tremendous amount of work SG and the whole point of the LPC is to get people off their butts and motivated and you've done that in spades, it was very ambitious and hell, they're already tabletop standard ;) I look forward to seeing this thread progress and your DW complete. As for what you have so far my only comments are - they look even better painted and those poses seriously pop! :P - you might want to make sure you get that wash all the way in those recesses, some of the pics seem to have some 'nude' patches where you'd expect to see shadow. It would be worth going back individually and finalising the shadows before you build up the highlights, tedious i know. - RayJ's green recipe looks solid :) , i'm a traditional chaos black, da green, 50/50 da/snot green kinda guy but mainly because im lazy and have the paints lol. I'm looking for distractions before painting my next DW squad and thats only two total lol, what you've achieved is awesome! hold your head high sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shadow Guard Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 RayJ thanks.... I'll definitely try that but I like the robes to be a bit more dark green. I might add a black wash to your technique. Chyper1: This was the very first time i tried using greenstuff so i really am not an expert. The trick is to start with small balls of GS and try a couple of test techniques. There are a couple of videos on you tube that i found useful. To make the small icons I made a ball of GS and thumbed it flet on to a 20mm base. Coated with some oil and then placed a plastic or metal icon and pressed it in. Dry for 24 - 48 hours. Once the mould is done I frist tried making a cast by coating with oil and then pushing some GS in to it and leaving it overrnight... then realised that if I placed the ball of GS on the mould and squaeezed it in with my thumb, the thumb is able to exert presssure evenly and as you remove your thumb the cast comes off with it... it's still pliable so that you can cut off the excess and then place it and mould it on to cutved surfaces like the shoulder paultrons, legs, shields etc. Seriously, it's practice that makes it good..... it's a lot easier than I thought... Tanhausen and Sandalphon: Thanks for the support. No way I'm giving up on this and I'm actually not burned out at all... on the contrary I'm all fired up...i really didn't want to rush and undo the initial hard work. I am gonna take my time but, as Tanhausen said i do one or two i the morning or in the evening.... I will kep progress posted.;) Thanks a lot for all the ideas! SG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayJ Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 SG, I originally tried the robes with the black wash and found it a bit dirty looking. There are a few things you can do to make it look smooth with my technique though. One is to start with a slightly darker green before the wash, and the other is to add more steps to the wash. You can get almost black with enough layers, so I don't think you'll have a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shadow Guard Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Thanks RayJ. I shall try that!:lol: SG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeussS Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Nice one. Curious tho... are you adding any colour or ink into the deep recesses? I loaded my old termies with plenty of darker colour into the recesses (sometimes to the detriment of detail ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayJ Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 With washes it's always best to start light and add more layers if you're concerned. After using it a bit you'll get a good judge for how much to use at once. The low pigment count on washes helps let the higher portions retain more of the underlying color, and more pigment pools into the recesses. This is basically the whole reason to use washes; they basically do the work for you! That being said, you can do too much. That's why I say when starting out use many smaller layers. This also helps limit instances of a dirty appearance due to uneven pooling of the pigment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Master Belial Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Really looking good SG! Look forward to see more of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.