RipherChost Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 I have seen plenty of Terminators with Dred shins used as shoulder pads but have not seen a tutorial. It must be fairly straight forward. My main question is do I want to keep the lil nubs under the shoulder pad? The nubs are the parts that attach to the dred legs... It seems that the pad would fit either way and I probably want to get rid of the nub on the end that would be visable but what about the one that would rest on the shoulder? not so sure if it would look/sit right if it is removed... Also, is this something that should work out alright if the arms are magnetized? Since I really don't have any spare bits to screw up on I wanted to see if there are any suggestions or tips out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maverike_prime Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 I've done this several times. No matter what I've found it best to move the nub at the top of the shin guard. The lower one I've found will vary based on whether you use a shoulder pad under the shin guard or not. If you're putting the shin guard on top of an actual Terminator shoulder pad, yes remove both nubs. If you're not using a terminator shoulder pad I've found it best to keep the lower nub as the primary point of contact between the armor and the shoulder. edit: Sorry forgot the magnet question. As long as the point of contact between the arm and the body is the shoulder, and you put the magnet in the shoulder, the pad shouldn't cause any problem. Best suggestion I can give here: Run out to office Depot and grab a pack of poster gun/Sticky tack and use that to stick parts together for testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red_starrise Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Well, depending on how you want to go about it, it's usually best to remove both nubs I've found when aligning them like so: http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x84/red_starrise/40K/Wolves/WolfLord.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 If you're going to use dread shin plates for TDA shoulders, please, please, PLEASE modify them so they don't look just like exactly what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red_starrise Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 If you're going to use dread shin plates for TDA shoulders, please, please, PLEASE modify them so they don't look just like exactly what it is. Now that he's been painted actually, I get asked everytime I run him what I used for the shoulder pads on my wolf lord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Really? 'Cause I can spot dread shin plates from a mile away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maverike_prime Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Really? 'Cause I can spot dread shin plates from a mile away. To be honest that doesn't say much. I routinely look at conversions to ID the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyaenidae Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 If you got the cash, maxmini makes some awesome pre heresy shoulderpads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elric the Silvercoat Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Anvil Industry on ebay does some good shoulders aswell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zincite Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 I actually cut off both nubs as far as possible and used Milliput to attach them. While the photo doesn't show it all that well.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 Really? 'Cause I can spot dread shin plates from a mile away. To be honest that doesn't say much. I routinely look at conversions to ID the parts. It says a lot, actually. I've seen some conversions where people used the dread plates and reshaped them, added decorations or even extended them with sheet plastic. It wasn't terribly obvious, and that is a conversion. I too will look at conversion to see if I can ID the parts, but the best ones are the ones where I wonder where they got that figure from and how come I've never seen it before, and then start seeing how cleverly parts of other models were worked into it. Slapping Tau Devilfish engine nacelles on the side of a landspeeder with no modification, for example, looks like Tau Devilfish engine nacelles slapped on the side of a landspeeder, and not like some rare speeder variant from an ancient STC. It's jarring with the clash of design differences and glaringly obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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