Transfering my Issues onto you

[OptiMAT]

Hai guys.

 

I could do with some tips on applying Circular Waterslide transfers to Shoulder pads.

 

I'm using Crimson Fists badge but am finding it really difficult to get the transfer onto the pad properly. I've tried more water (floppy transfer) and less water (more adhesive) and now I'm at a loss and running out of transfers.

 

Will trying to cut down the aura of the emblem help it fit better? and if so, what's the best way to effectively get the transfer onto the pad now that you're left with very little 'free' surface to grasp with tweezers?

 

I found the blood angels transfers to go on great but these circular ones... grrr.

 

Cheers guys/girls

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Unless you have it low on the shoulderpad, you're going to need use some sort of decal solvent to soften the film and get it to conform to the curve on the upper part of the pad. Micro Sol and Micro Set will be your best friends for marine shoulder decals.

[OptiMAT]

Thanks. Dont know if I'm that bothered about them to do all that but it was worth knowing that I'm not missing anything stupid that's easy to fix.

 

I've been practicing on older models a bit of hand painted emblems and I might use some pencil markings to make it easier because they've actually been turning out alright so I might forgo the transfers for a bit of practice freehand.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

All that? There's not much to it. You put the decal where you want it, brush on some of the set, and let it dry.

 

If it's a really complex area, you brush on some sol(vent) and give it 24 hours to do its thing.

 

Definitely much easier(and better looking) than free handing all of the icons.

[Lorenzen]

gloss varnish the surface you want to apply the transfer to, apply transfer with decal fix, matt varnish the area after.. gets rid of the "aura" around the transfer left by the film and allows the transfer to adhear properly.

[OptiMAT]

I had a look online for the stuff and some guides mention Varnishing the area first then applying the sol to the area, put the transfer on, then apply set afterwards and then satin to attempt to remove the shininess ... is that not right? I really dont like the idea of varnishing the model with proper varnish (I'm using Satin already) because the gloss look I'm not a fan of, but if you dont have to varnish the model to use this stuff I might give it more of a look.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

I trim the film as close to the decal as possible, brush on a little bit of set where I want it to go, put the decal down, brush more set on top of it, and let it dry.

 

The solvent you really only need for very complex surfaces, and at first, it looks like you've destroyed the decal because it wrinkles up, but it eventually smooths out and conforms to the surface in approx. 24 hours.

 

Now, I usually gloss for protection once all the painting is done, then come back with a matte varnish to kill the shine, but I've done a few commission jobs where they didn't want it varnished with anything, and the decals looked decent without it. If there is any shine left over, just touch up with the base color(meaning do this before weathering).

[Watcher in the Dark]

You might also try making small cuts using a sharp hobby knife near the edges of the decal, coming from the center. That will allow the decal to mold to the rounded nature of a pad a little more easily too. 3 or 4 cuts would do it I think.

[red_starrise]

I feel your pain, the CF decal is exactly like the IF decal only red instead of black. I personally just freehand them using ultra-fine point markers, the same that I use for lettering on scrolls & such. Because I have a budget issue of: models or supplies, my budget is set, so anything fancy like the decal solvents are luxuries that compete w/ buying more figures & that always gets hard.

 

So, that being said, I also don't like cutting a V outta the decal either, but the fist is a pretty easy icon to freehand honestly.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Both bottles of decal stuff is about 6-7 dollars, and would easily last you your lifetime if you never spilled them.

[Redfinger]

Here you go, copied from a post I made a while ago...

 

Step 1- Cut the decal as close to the edge of the print as you can, the less decal you have to work with, the better it will look

 

Step 2- Surface prep; decals apply best to semi-gloss to gloss surfaces. Get some future floor polish and brush a thin coat on the area the decal will go, it takes about 20min to dry.

 

Step 3- Apply the decal, get some Microsol solution, the red bottle, this soften the decal nicely to conform to Marine Shoulders. After you have set the decal on your surface, brush some more Micrsol on the decal, let it sit for a moment. After it has had a moment to soak, take a damp paper towel and gently press the decal down on the surface, after it is in the position you like, add another coat of Microsol and let sit about 5 minutes.

 

Step 4- Hatching the decal. By hatching I mean, cutting the decal. In the case of most shoulder icons you are going to cut a simple "X" pattern on the decal, this will relive the stress of the bend or wrinkle and allow the decal to lay flat. I can not stress enough that you need to apply this cut with a fresh blade, and dont use a pulling motion, use a chopping motion, set the cutting edge of the knife down on the decal, and gently push or chop, you will fill when the blade has gone through the decal.

 

Step 5- Top coat. No matter how flat you get that decal to lay, there will still be an "edge" between the decal and the surface of the model. Take some more Future Floor Polish and apply a layer or two over the decal and surrounding area, this will level out the surface and provide a painted on look.

 

Ste 6- Clean up, sometimes it helps to clean the decal up a bit, make the whites whiter, and the blacks blacker...

 

Step 7- Dull coat- once the model is finished painted, dull coat to get rid of the gloss.

 

Here is a image of decals applied using the above method;

 

 

And here is an image after it has been hatched and had a layer of future on top, if you look closely you can see the hatching marks....

 

 

Hope that helps!

 

Ashton

[Lorenzen]

sandwiching it betwen two layers of varnish helps make the decal stick and removes the clouding around the edges as well as the ridge you get. its only the area that the decal is being applied to that you need to gloss and trying to cut stages out will result in it not looking as good.

[Hemal]

Micro set and micro sol will be your friends..