Seahawk Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Has anyone used the liquid greenstuff yet? I picked up some, but am not sure what I should use to apply it to models with. A paintbrush seems like a bad idea, as it'd get ruined with the first usage. Toothpick? Suggestions are appreciated ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 It's awesome stuff. Really. A paintbrush is fine with it, just wash it well after use. A good technique is to apply the putty neat, then blend it in with a moist brush; it's very water soluble. Working neat, you can work it up into ridges / lines; it's about the consistency of melting ice cream. Pants for sharp edges though, without some form of support under it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cl4d Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Where did you get that stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 I bought a few pots of it at Warhammer World when it was released. Anywhere that sells the Citadel paint range is a good bet too. It is actually fairly good, so it seems to sell out quite fast. (Plus they seem to try to sell it everytime you so much as look funny at the Finecast rack). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olgerth Istaarn Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 It's awesome stuff. Really. A paintbrush is fine with it, just wash it well after use. A good technique is to apply the putty neat, then blend it in with a moist brush; it's very water soluble. Working neat, you can work it up into ridges / lines; it's about the consistency of melting ice cream. Pants for sharp edges though, without some form of support under it. I feel like a moron asking this, but what do you mean "apply neat" or "working neat"? Besides, you know, don't splatter it all over the place? Is this some kind of a painting term? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShinyRhino Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 He most likely means "by working slowly and carefully". Liquid GS is some good stuff, and you can indeed work it into small ridges and lines using a moist brush. It won't be super detailed, but enough to blend around gaps and such. It's seiously one of my new favorite tools on my desk. I used to have a tough time with small holes in parts when removing them from the sprue without a knife or clippers. Liquid GS fills those small holes with ease. It's also great whenyou're filing away details and accidentally gouge or ding the smooth surface you were trying to hard to achieve. Smooth on some Liquid GS, wait 6 hours, and sand smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Agreed. Now that I've got some of this stuff, I'm hooked. It's great for any gap filling and surface glazing, especially if you can use surface tension to bridge gaps. All with the control of paint. I'm using Vallejo Plastic Putty which is white, but I'm sure it's the same stuff. My guess is Liquid Greenstuff is just coloured green. It's not really like greenstuff which is an epoxy plastic that sets through chemical reaction. With these products they've taken marble dust and mixed it with 'high density' acrylic and pigment to make a paint that basically turns to stone when it dries. And that's how they differ; Where greenstuff is plastic-like when it sets, these paint-on products dry very hard. How it works doesn't change that it's very good when used the right way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todosi Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 By using a liquid "neat" he means just use the liquid green stuff without watering it down. It's like ordering a scotch, neat. Just scotch, no ice, no water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olgerth Istaarn Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 By using a liquid "neat" he means just use the liquid green stuff without watering it down. It's like ordering a scotch, neat. Just scotch, no ice, no water. Very cool, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Agreed. Now that I've got some of this stuff, I'm hooked. It's great for any gap filling and surface glazing, especially if you can use surface tension to bridge gaps. All with the control of paint. I'm using Vallejo Plastic Putty which is white, but I'm sure it's the same stuff. My guess is Liquid Greenstuff is just coloured green. It's not really like greenstuff which is an epoxy plastic that sets through chemical reaction. With these products they've taken marble dust and mixed it with 'high density' acrylic and pigment to make a paint that basically turns to stone when it dries. And that's how they differ; Where greenstuff is plastic-like when it sets, these paint-on products dry very hard. How it works doesn't change that it's very good when used the right way. I've used the Vallejo stuff, and it is broadly similar, but I'm finding the liquid GS to be smoother in application, as you don't get crud building up around a dropper nozzle. For once the pot design is a win in my opinion. The green colour is also actually very easy to see; that sounds stupid, but until you've tried both you won't know what I mean. By 'neat' yes, I meant straight from the pot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I've used the Vallejo stuff, and it is broadly similar, but I'm finding the liquid GS to be smoother in application, as you don't get crud building up around a dropper nozzle. For once the pot design is a win in my opinion. The green colour is also actually very easy to see; that sounds stupid, but until you've tried both you won't know what I mean. By 'neat' yes, I meant straight from the pot. Thanks for the information, that's good to know. I might just need to pick up a bottle of GWs product and see for myself side-by-side. I don't have much of a problem with crud on the dropper, since I wipe the tip of the bottles clean before closing them. It's something I've got in the habit of doing with all of the Vallejo paints, since it is a downside of the dropper bottles. Still better than the 'dried paint ring' that builds up in GW paint pots no matter how careful you are. But, you can't totally avoid it dried crust with any acrylic product, unfortunately. As for 'seeing it', since it's acrylic, I just add a bit of paint that will contrast well against the background I'm working on. The only time I've really needed to do this is when I'm using it on white plasticard, however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mahoo Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 I've just started experimenting using it for lava flow on my bases for my new red corsairs. From early results it looks pretty damn good, alot easier to get a natural looking flow using it. I've got an idea for using a piece of wire for a "free falling" lava flow. Gonna try covering the wire in liquid gs and see its effect, failing that, normal gs with liquid painted over it. I'll post results when I get it done (which may be a while considering I don't have nay normal GS left ;) haha) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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