Decal Problems

[Taliostro]

Hi Guys,

 

I've got some decent problems with the "U" decals from GW and FW for the shoulderpads of my Ultramarines.

No matter what I try, they won't stay flush on the shoulderpad, but instead wrinkle a little bit because of the "odd" curving of the pads. This is giving me the headaches, in my whole life as military modeler I had never problems with decals, no matter how fiddly or odd the shapes were on tanks an airplanes...

I tried so far:

Using gloss varnish as a base, applying the decal and the using Gunze Mr.Softer and Mr.Setter Solution for decals.

Using no varnish as a base, just going straight with both decal solutions.

Using varnish as a base, but using no decal solutions.

 

Do I really have to cut out the decals as tight to the "U" as possible? Looks really time consuming ;)

Or is there another trick without the cutting?

 

Would be grateful for any help.

 

Talli/Sven

[Subtle Discord]

I haven't done ant decals in a long time (but will be getting to some in the near future), but I can try to give some of my experience. Also, I've never used 'setting solution' for decals. A varnish coat always seems to be the most straight forward.

 

You've got the right idea; Gloss base > Place decal > Use 'softener' solution > Let dry and 'shrink' > Varnish coat to seal them in place

 

The first thing I can say is that not all decals, or softening solutions, are created the same. Some decals are thicker than others. And, some decal softening solutions are more 'aggressive' than others. Since you can't change the thickness of the decals, you might need to try another brand of softening solution.

 

The softening solution should be enough to get the decal to 'bend' and cover rounded surfaces, but it's not perfect, and shoulder pads are the worse.

 

I've found, instead of cutting out the shape exactly, cut reasonably close using straight lines to trim the shape down as much as you can manage. Then, make small cuts 'out from the center' of the decal, without actually cutting the icon/symbol you're trying to place on the item. these can be just small straight cuts, or even small 'wedges' can be cut and removed, if it's going on a really 'round' surface. (In the case of the Ultramarine's 'U' you might want to add a slice right down the middle of the 'U', to the center.)

 

What this will do (especially when combined with softening solution) is give the decal a bit more 'room' to bend. The small slices/wedges can overlap or close some, letting the decal bend and take on a rounder shape. The softening solution should be enough to finish the job from that point.

 

Hope this helps some.

[Redfinger]

Try this;

 

Set the decal with your setting solution of choice. LEt it set up for about 10 minutes, then take a fresh xacto blade and gently make relief cuts where the wrinkles are the worse, then apply more setting solution to those area and you should be fine.

 

Ashton

[red_starrise]

Y'know, I don't even use shoulder pad decals anymore because they can be such a PitA due to them being flat but the surface they are to be attached to being curved. I've never done UM symbols before, but the IF decals are a bear. I used to have to notch a V out of the top of it to make it fit.

[Taliostro]

In some way, I'm relieved that the decals are the problem, not myself or my "skills" :pinch:

I think, I will try out redfingers suggestion on my scratchbuilt-out-of-the-bitzbox chaplain and tell you then, if it was a success

[striker8]

You're on the right track and have the basic idea but since unlike military modeling gaming decals are often placed in less than ideal areas of a model and on complex curves you have to learn a few other tricks.

 

First off and as already stated not all decal or decal solutions are equal. I've found that the soak time and number of aplications of solvent I need for GW decals is different from other decal manufactureres. You have to learn how your solvent behaves. This can mean you'll need to apply the solvent ofer a course of days allowing it to incrementaly get the decal to snuggle down.

 

Then you come to what you have to do to the decals themselves. I've used all the decals GW has produced at one time or another along with other comercialy made decals and DIY ones. You have to learn what shapes do what when placed on the surface you want them on. This is where trimming can come in, the extra clear film will sometimes cause the decals to buckle and the removal of this extra part will solve the issue and with others you have to add a few small cuts into the image so that the film can lay flat or a combination of the two. Case in point the UM U's often need the clear film accross the top part of the U trimmed and then if you make a slit down the open part of the Ugives the decal the needed flexibility to lay flat on a shoulder pad. For things such as IF/CF decals a couple of small slits will suffice( I use 3 equally spaced slits myself). Once you add in the decal solvent as needed you'll have them laying perfectly.

 

The last trick isn't really a trick. You just have to avoid the urge to rush things. Take the time to trim and slit the decals and then give the solvent the time and number of applications it needs to work.