Preventing Metal Model Chipping?

[igotsmeakabob!!]

Alright, so this is driving me nuts. I find it difficult enough to work up the impetus to paint my models in the first place (I have a lot more fun building, converting and playing), but my metal models' paintjobs chip to hell over months/years of use OR disuse. This happens despite my application of not one, but two varnishes... the ArmyPainter QuickShade I use on most if not all of my models, and the AP Anti-Shine Matte spray varnish I use to take off the shine of the QShade. Does anyone have a method to deal with this? Repainting parts of my characters after having put so much time and attention into them is a real pain in the ass.

 

I really hope they Finecast everything soon, but I play BAs and it's unlikely I'll see my stuff converted until a 6e 'dex.

[Maligoare]

Spray varnish is only ever going to be quite a light coat. If you need more protection, try using the GW Gloss Varnish all over the model, and then varnish it with the Matt varnish as usual.

[Subtle Discord]

Here's a few things I've learned over the years about how well a paint job can weather. Unfortunately, nothing con stop it completely.

 

One of the key things is how you treat your primer. First make sure it has an optimal surface to stick to. Before you prime, give the miniature a cleaning to remove hand oils and sweat from the model. I just give them a quick scrub with a damp (clean water) soft plastic brush and let them dry. It also get rid of any bits of dust or fuzz that might be hiding somewhere.

 

Prime as normal, getting an even coat, and try to make sure 'chip prone' places get at least a modest coat. The next step is critical;

 

Let it dry completely before you paint on it. Never paint on a freshly primed miniature, the primer is still slightly soft, and will rub and chip easier for the life of the miniature. 24 hours is good, 48 is better. You can literally smell when primer is properly dry. It sounds weird, I know, but try it. Smell a miniature that's dried 4-6 hours (totally dry to the touch) and then give it another sniff 24+ hours later. Properly dried primer will weather much better, hands down. It will hold paint better, rub off less, and not chip as easily - no matter what the surface is.

 

Selective varnish is also helpful. Since gloss varnish will protect better, I will manually add dabs and thin coats of it to chip-prone places. Tops of helmets, horn/spike tips, gun barrels, toe caps, and any other edge or point that is facing up/out. Then go in with two coats of preferred spray varnish. You can even add a second selective gloss coat between the spray layers. (Just remember to keep them smooth and thin) As with the primer, try to give coats time to fully dry both before you add another coat, and before you actually play with the miniature.

 

Hope that's of some help.

[igotsmeakabob!!]

Maybe my problem is not giving proper dry time, I'll give that a try!

[paintner]

the most important thing I would say is to get the model clean.

I once primed a mini that I later noticed had release agent still on it. the thing they have in the moulding forms so the metal will not get stuck.

and that utterly destroyed any chance to get a good paintjob on it.

 

in the end I had to clean it with spirits to get a good stick with the primer.

 

also check what type of primer you use. GWs primes I still see as the best one, personally, for metals.

had some luck with TAMIYA spray paints. they are really good, but I never really got the hang on them. for me they always go on to thick and leave a shiny 'plastic feel' of surface, while I like the somewhat grainy structure of the GW primer.

[mr tough guy]

Never had any issues myself, but I have heard about people drying the primer with a blowdryer, sort of baking it on under the heat of the blowdryer, never tried it myself but I know a few great painters that swear by this technique, so it might help, but I can imagine you'll have to take care the mini doesn't get too hot, metal will probably be fine, but resin/plastic might warp under the heat

[Gurth]

1. Clean the model thoroughly before priming — I scrub it with a copper-wire brush, for example.
   
2. Undercoat using an actual primer intended for use on metal, not any old spray paint.
   
3. After the model is painted, spray on a coat of gloss varnish — this is much more durable than matt varnish.
   
4. Apply a coat of matt varnish to get rid of the sheen and add a thin layer of extra protection for the paint.
   
5. Package your models carefully for transport so they can't bump into each other or into other hard objects.
   

[Kisada]

Future Floor polish mixed with Tamiya Flat Base

 

The Complete Future

 

I did 5:1 future:flat but next time I would probably do 3:1 or 2:1 because I like it to be very flat

[igotsmeakabob!!]

I guess my other option is to replace as many models as I can with plastic conversions :/

[Twin .44]

Am I the only one that's never had this problem? I've got metal models I've used for about four years and they are still absolutely perfect. I use a pretty hardcore primer though. Rustoleum Painter's Touch ultra cover flat black. It never chips and only costs between 3 and 4 bucks a can. It looks like it goes on thick, but I used it on my Grey Knights (plastic, and metal) and every bit of detail came through just fine. And it never chipped on any of my old metal models. When arms break off, the glue comes off before that stuff does.

[chromedog]

Clean the model of all greasy residues (this includes the oils off your skin).

Prime it with a metal primer (one that will bind to the metal properly and provide "tooth" for the next layers of paint to adhere to).

Paint it.

 

GLOSS varnish it. This also makes the decals easier to apply.

Matt varnish it to tone down the shiny.

 

The GLOSS varnish provides the protection. The matt mitigates the shine.

[igotsmeakabob!!]

Just to be clear, matte varnish doesn't provide any protection, it simply removes shine?

[Gurth]

Of course it provides protection — it's an extra layer that helps keep together the ones underneath and must be worn away/broken through before the paint underneath can be damaged. However, matt varnish normally forms a much weaker barrier than a same thickness of gloss varnish does.