amrogers3 Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 So what do you guys use to remove flash from plastic and resin models? Exacto blade? What about curved surfaces? And more advanced question, what about a ridged hose (like on a meltagun or on the necron warrior gun)? How do you guys handle that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kierdale Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Flash? I hear he saved every one of us. ^_^ Bad joke aside, I use a craft knife for removing flash and mould-lines, being particularly careful on curved surfaces (careful not to damage the surface, and not to slip and damage myself). Not so much cutting the flash off with the edge of the blade as scratching it off with the flat. As for ribbed pipes and the like (the bottom of bolter magazines!) it depends on my patience. On a good day I'll use the knife to carefully score out any flash, or use a suitably-shaped file (triangular cross section) and give it a quick, gentle pull through the valleys. Interested to hear what others recommend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I swear by a high quality jeweler's files, and Swiss made Grobet are my brand of choice. You only need 2-or-3, really, and they last for years. I have never found a good quality 'hobby store' file that compares to Grobet, period. Some come close, but their edges are never as exact and well formed as a Grobet file. For the extra few dollars, give me something that I know is going to be near perfect. http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j332/SubtleDiscord/From%20the%20Wastes%20Blog%20Photos/Top3_Files.jpg A '#4 Half Round' file (Top) is by far my favorite file, and I do 90% of my cleanup with one. A perfectly shaped tapered point means you can get into most tight places. Good flat side for flat filing. A nice rounded side for concave details. And most of all, a really nice 'blade edge' for taking care of mould lines in things like 'corrugated hose'. The other two pictured are a '#4 Round', for all of those tricky inside round bits (note its wonderfully fine tapered tip), and a '#0 Flat' for really removing material fast. http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j332/SubtleDiscord/From%20the%20Wastes%20Blog%20Photos/GroberFiles1.jpg The other reason why I like quality jeweler's files is the range of 'cuts' you can get. For example; From a super-fine #6 (Top) that will polish a surface, to a general purpose #4 cut (Middle) that will take care of most jobs and still leave a primer ready surface, and a really coarse #0 cut (bottom) for really grinding away stubborn bits quickly. After using these file I will scrub the miniature with a stiff plastic bristle brush, and that will remove any 'burring' left behind. Files like this will make removing mould lines almost enjoyable... almost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lavaman Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 yea man you wanna get on that company 'Grobet' you just sold me a set :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amrogers3 Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 I swear by a high quality jeweler's files, and Swiss made Grobet are my brand of choice. You only need 2-or-3, really, and they last for years. I have never found a good quality 'hobby store' file that compares to Grobet, period. Some come close, but their edges are never as exact and well formed as a Grobet file. For the extra few dollars, give me something that I know is going to be near perfect. I'm interested in finding a fine needle file for plastic that won't scar the surface too bad. Will the "fine" #4 work on plastic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Yep, a #4 cut is a good blend of cutting power and polish. With some pressure it will remove a respectable amount of material, so it's good for getting rid of even stubborn mold lines and defects. But, if you keep the pressure light it will practically polish the surface smooth. I hate mould lines, and am very particular about removing them. 90% of my filing work is done with a #4 Half Round because it's so versatile. If I could only have one file, that would be it. It's nice to have a few others for certain jobs, but the #4 Half Round is king. Everything I build (metal, plastic, or resin) is touched by it at least a little. The big key I've found to getting the most from a good file is the scrub/buff with a stiff plastic brush after you're done filing. Take a stiff toothbrush or a 'denture brush' and trim the bristles down with some clippers - shortening them will make them stiffer and very slightly more abrasive. Use the brush to really buff the filed area, and it will get rid of any burring (plastic fuzz left by the file) and give it a final polish. 'Rinse and repeat' the file-then-buff process until the offending defect is but a memory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amrogers3 Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 Yep, a #4 cut is a good blend of cutting power and polish. With some pressure it will remove a respectable amount of material, so it's good for getting rid of even stubborn mold lines and defects. But, if you keep the pressure light it will practically polish the surface smooth. Awesome, that is exactly what I need to get then. Do you sell the #4 or do you know where I could purchase it? I checked online but couldn't find it. I like your idea about the stiff brush, I'll have to try that out also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 You'll need to order from a Jewelry Supply company like Rio Grand or Contenti. All my current files are from Rio Grand. They are also a great place to buy high quality drill bits and Jeweler's Saws (and bulk blades) among some other really useful tools, if you're into converting. Damn, I almost sound like have stock invested or something. :) but really, I just believe in certain quality tools. A modest investment in good tools can save so much frustration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amrogers3 Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 You'll need to order from a Jewelry Supply company like Rio Grand or Contenti. All my current files are from Rio Grand. So I found a few half rounds. Looks like Rio only sells the whole #4 set and Contenti sells a fews different half round #4's: 5.5" to 7.75". Does the 5.5 or 6.25 work best for you? I've always used a 5.5 to get in tight places so I may go with that. Problem is my current half round must be a 0 or 2 because is destroys the plastic when I am trying to file. Also, what you think about the #6 cut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Oops. I confused the company I ordered from. (I bought a few things from both companies at the same time) It was Contenti that I got my current files from, and I just picked a selection of single files. I'm using the 5.5" files. With miniatures you really don't need more length. #0 and #2 are great for really grinding through material, but as you've seen, they are not subtle. They really chew up the surface. #6 files are really 'soft'. They will only polish the surface, and you can't expect them to actually remove material. I have a few #6 files, but I find I don't use them much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Templar 307th Comp. Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I have a set of files I bought from Home Depot for about five bucks, and if the scratches they leave are too nasty, I buff them out with my Dremel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amrogers3 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Oops. I confused the company I ordered from. (I bought a few things from both companies at the same time) It was Contenti that I got my current files from, and I just picked a selection of single files. I'm using the 5.5" files. With miniatures you really don't need more length. #0 and #2 are great for really grinding through material, but as you've seen, they are not subtle. They really chew up the surface. #6 files are really 'soft'. They will only polish the surface, and you can't expect them to actually remove material. I have a few #6 files, but I find I don't use them much. So you would suggest a round, half round, and a flat all in #4 cut, 5.5"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 A #4 Half Round and Round would be my choice for 'must have' files. You don't really need a #4 Flat, since the Half Round has a flat side, so I'd consider a #2 or #0 Flat, so you have something aggressive for stubborn jobs. But, if you're already happy with your current #2/#0 Half Round for those types of jobs, you should be good to go. After thinking about it, you might want to consider a #6 Half Round, if you want to make sure you have one nice 'soft' file for subtle work, but I'd call that a luxury more than a need. Everything comes down to personal preference in the end. I still think the #4 Half Round is the perfect all-round file, and the others you choose are just icing on the cake. Have a look at the picture I posted, and see how the #4 cut compares to the others. Do you think you 'need' something else, based on what your plans are? Once you've worked with the #4, you'll have a good idea if you might want a few more to compliment what you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Nihm Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Good old half-dulled craft knife, it makes those sections smooth as butter. I used to use a pocket knife but lost it a few years back during a Warp Storm, it was simply the best. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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