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Where to weather a Rhino chassis?

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Good day to you my fellow brothers.


As the title implies I'm wondering which areas to weather on a Rhino chassis.

In this case I'm aiming more at chipped paint as rust in general.

This would be my first approach at weathering at all, so any thought or advice is highly appreciated :P


What I'm going to do:

  1. Priming with Vallejo Surface Primer Black
  2. Basecoat the relevant edges/areas widely with Vallejo Model Air Ferrari Red (as this will be my general color)
  3. Highlight the edges/areas with Vallejo Model Air Rust
  4. Apply hairspray with a brush to relevant edges
  5. Put salt on hairspray covered edges
  6. Basecoat the whole chassis in Vallejo Model Air Ferrari Red
  7. Remove the salt
  8. Be happy (at least I hope so :) )


These are the edges I've planned to do:







So what do you think?

Will this be too much? Just right? Too less?




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how mush weathering are you looking at/what efect are you going for?


eg a loyalist rhino thats in battle - i would expect mud on the lower hull andaround the tracks. battle damage/chips mainy at the fronts/sides near the front. possibly sme scrapes to the paint aroudn the hatches etc where marines have scraped past.


i wouldnt expect much, if any, rust. at most maybe around an older bit of battle damage. this is more fluff based as i imagine loyal marines looking after their wargear etc. so would expect more chipped paint than rust.


maybe some streaking/stains around the rivets


some blackening/soot around the exhaust stacks might look good too.

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For the amount of weathering I think less is more, what I really like to achieve is a battle-torn look.

This Rhino will be the chassis for my Baal-Predator, so most of the damage would come from battle.


My thoughts on rust were that if you chip off some paint the metal beneath will start to rust, so I wanted a base layer of rust.

Would you propose a base layer of dark metal instead?


Normally I give all the rivets a quick brush with Leadbelcher but to be consistent I should put a weak layer of rust there too.


As for the mud this is something I'd do at the very end of painting, so there will be some time ahead until then :(

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rivets - i was thinking more this effect (first example)



chipping/rust - it will start to corrode dependant on prolonged exposure to the elements/metal composition etc but i would imagine marines to maintain kit between engagements that it wouldn't have much chance to do this so fresh battle scarring would be more likely - personal preference here really. prolonged engagements may see rust creeping in more on older damage that they havent/cant repair alongside fresh damage. you could do a bit of both.


edit: have you seen the articles on armour damage in the tutorials section:

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.p...howtopic=164170 - 2nd page has how to for red armour

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From a fluff point of view, Rhinos in general aren't going to rust easily as there Ceramite over Plasteel. If you're not bothered about that, I'd take the less is more approach as you quite rightly say.


Weathering in general is telling the story of the vehicle and giving it character. Imagine where it would of scraped against something removing the paint, or where it would of taken weapon hits. Also, which parts are going to covered in general oil/grease/gunk and soot.

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On a vehicle shaped like a Rhino, I'd expect mud and dirt to build up on the sides (but only very little in the recessed areas at the front and rear of the side panels) and on the entire outward-sloping rear plate, plus of course the entire suspension, belly and nose plate. Very little would probably end up on the inward-sloping areas above the rear end of the track, nor on the front plate unless the vehicle has been driven into muddy water.


Chipping is only likely to occur in areas where the crew put their feet a lot, or that regularly bump into terrain features like trees and walls. Adding paint chips to every edge on the vehicle will quickly make it look like the real thing was either very poorly painted (not degreased properly, for example), or got a coat of paint that's incompatible with the paint that was already on the vehicle. To add them more realistically, consider where the crew climbs onto and off the vehicle, what routes they take to get to their hatches and to places where they need to perform maintenance, etc. and then only add chips there.

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Following your appreciated advices I let go of my initial thought of rust using the salt method and went for a straight basecoating and chipping using a small sponge instead.

To be honest, I think the outcome is much better than what I would have ended up with my previous approach. :)


A few quick pics tell more than words:





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I know you chose to go a different route but just in case you would like to try that salt chipping in the future I'd suggest a different (and easier) workflow.


Vallejo makes a surface primer that is closer to rust so you could prime and do the rust in one go.


If you don't have that or didnt want to get it you could do...

-prime vallejo surface black

-vallejo model air rust

-apply salt

-basecoat and any highlights

-remove salt and be happy


That would save you doing two basecoats and is typically how someone would do this technique.

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