Jump to content

dark angels rhino/predator

Noble 6

Recommended Posts

The MODs may want to move this to the DA forum....


This is how I go about mine - check my sig link under Dark Angels or my Vindicators for the finished product :lol:


Spray in matt black


Spray in Angel Green (Army Painter)


2 coats of watered down DA green


Drybrush in Goblin green


Metal bits in Boltgun


Matt black ink in all the armour joints/creases and over the Boltgun


Drybrush (very dry) matt black around the exhausts as soot deposits.


Jewel effect on the lenses using Scab red - black ink - Scab red 1st highlight - Blood red 2nd highlight - blazing orange at the very edge and a matt white point at the top corner then gloss varnish the lens (check out some of the jewel tutorials for more info).


White patterns hand drawn on in pencil then use very watered down white paint. You will need multiple layers (I used 8) for good coverage. Weather the white using thin matt black squiggles then inside these paint Boltgun and wash with devlin mud to give rust effect (this is the same for the green weathering).


I think that is it all covered but I may have forgotten something....



This is how mine turned out






If you want to muddy it up then please let me know as my fingers hurt now :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The MODs may want to move this to the DA forum....




yes i would like to know how you did the mud and instead of using angel green army painter could i use da green in my airbrush and spray that on, and the 2 thinned down layers of da green are they airbrushed or painted on

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not being an airbrush owner I cannot really comment on the best way to use one but in principle it should have the same effect.


I would still use a spray can chaos black primer to give a good base to the paint job as it bonds to the plastic.



The mud is acheved by:


1. Get the vehicle to the clean standard with any normal washes you use


2. Using a stipple brush or an old drybrush paint on the tracks/track guards/areas of hull that would be splashed if driving in mud (use RL photos of vehicles as a guide:

a. Scorched brown

b. Bestial Brown

c. Graveyard earth

d. Devlin mud in recesses and run down from boltheads/rivets and hinges.


The trick is to randomly splatter the colours to create an irregular look - keep the darker colour lower down and the lighter colour higher up on the vehicle. Don't get carried away - you can always add more later :)



I have used all the old GW paint names but just use one of the paint conversion charts for the new names or other manufacturers.


Hope this helps ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your airbrush will just be used to get the basic colour(s) for the armour panels down, after that you'll be using brushes for detail, shading and weathering. You could also spray through a stencil to get the DA symbol down, however this will only work on flat areas.


You can do some pre-shading with your air brush. The simplest method is getting three shades of your base colour that are quite close together. Spray the darkest shade all over the model (may take a few coats to get the colour down). Next, spray the mid shade at 45 degree angle to the model (again may take a couple of coats). Finally, give a very quick spray of the lightest shade over the top of the model only.


The next steps depend on how you want the model to turn out. Do you want the bright colours that you normally see on GW's website, or do you want a realistic finish that you see on the Forge World website, or with Scale Models ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Id like to the forgeworld realistic look http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Images/Product/DefaultFW/large/rbmm.jpg like this


I'd recommend you look towards the military scale modelling world for information, they're light years ahead of the simplistic vehicle paint jobs that the 'Eavy Metal team do. In fact most of the techniques that Forgeworld use have first started out with the scale modelers - most of the stuff in the Forgeworld Model Masterclass book can be found freely online.


See here




and here



Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

I would just like to point out to people that the Citadel rattle cans - Chaos Black Skull White are not primers and just regular paints. Having said that they work quite well as a primer. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative and live in the U.K. Halford's do a plastic primer a few pounds less than the Citadel tins but the best buy I have found is Hycote Plastic Primer available from The Range for only £4 a can (400 ml- the same size as Citadel's rattle cans!)

I am not so keen on the camo green for a DA colour scheme but the paint job from Sanguineum Marionetus looks great- I am this minute painting my first DAs vehicle a Rhino- coffee break checking out how others have done theirs before continuing with the laborious task of edge highlighting.  Cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The old catachan green. No idea whatever it is called now, or whether it still exists.


It's Castellan Green now brother.


OT - You should be able to run DA Green through your airbrush as long as it's thinned correctly, Vallejo Airbrush Thinner is a good starting point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.