Finished RW biker wing

[mmaarrkk]

So finally finished my DA biker wing, now onto the deathwing army next 

 

(assuming its ok to post pics in here?)

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/FMSRacing/2013-03-04182537Small.jpg

 

Libby on bike with force axe

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/FMSRacing/2013-03-04181952Small.jpg

 

Chaplain on bike with mace (was going to be company master with mace of redempation, before reading company masters cant take bikes :()

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/FMSRacing/2013-03-04181839Small.jpg

 

Techy on bike with servo harness and removeable attack bike cart with conversion beamer (if i use as vanilla marine master of the forge)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/FMSRacing/2013-03-04181928Small.jpg

 

Black knight squads

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/FMSRacing/2013-03-04181801Small.jpg

 

Apothecary and champion (forgot to take pics of standard bearer)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/FMSRacing/2013-03-04181821Small.jpg

 

Then theres 36 bikers, 4 plasma guns, 4 melta guns 4 flamers and 6 sargs, quite a few are RW bikers and quite a few are from the DV box with some conversion, the plasma guns cut off quite well and replaced with meltas or flamers

 

Also Sammael of course

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/FMSRacing/2013-03-04182019Small.jpg

 

And 6 attack bikes.  In total 57 bikers, a full troop choice of 6 6 man biker squads (all have special weapons as listed above), also have a dark shroud/vengeance which can be either, I snapped the side bits off the idol so the plasma cannons can still slot in, I have 3 speeders which can be any load out 

[Vash]

Now thats alooot of bikes. How many points is that roughly?

[mmaarrkk]

Just over 2,5k before upgrades (vet sargs plus his options, options on the characters etc) can be around 2750 I reckon, thats just whats pictured, with the speeders probably over 3k

[Isiah]

Love the techie on the bike .

Cheers

I

[Brom MKIV]

I gotta second the tech marine comment, makes me want to roll one into my army!

[ZeBaron]

Love the awesome Ravenwing force, but I've gotta say it: Thin your paints!

[Captain Semper]

Impressive collection! :tu:

 

I think the final result would benefit from some shading... That Techmarine on the bike is awesome btw! :lol:

[mmaarrkk]

Yea I do need to improve my painting skill, have tried thinning paints but never got good results, plus the red I was using then was pretty thick :(, I have been collecting for 6 months so still quite new

 

  Thanks for the comments about the techy, servo harness was nicked off a thunderfire techmarine, need to replace that soon!, sadly I have put the army up for sale, have far too much plastic crack :(

[Vash]

My general advice to new people to this game/hobby when it comes to painting. Keep it simple

1. Clean the model from mould lines. Takes time, but once you starting painting the end results will be so much better thanks to this.

2. Spray the model in two thin layers. The GW (or other approved hobby sprays) lay a base coat where the applied colours will stick much better.

3. Add base colours. Usually a model has two. One primary and one secondary.

4. Wash the model. GW have really nice washes now days. Nuln Oil (black), Seraphim sepia, and Agrax earth shade are my favourites.

5. Apply details, such as eye lens colour, text, etc.

Now with more and more skill, more steps will be added of course. But following these steps will give you a above table top standard model once you have mastered it. And mastering these steps can be done quite fast.

So looking at your models, I would recommend some washing. On the red areas either Nuln Oil or Agrax earthshade, and on the white, I would go for Seraphim sepia (perhaps thin the wash down a bit). Now the white areas needs to be retouched after the wash has dried. So apply white once again, but leave some shades in the gaps.

Keep up the good work!

[mmaarrkk]

I have been using the army painter quickshade on a few of my models but not 100% if I like that or not, I have been using nuln oil on my tanks and yea it improves it a lot, if I wasnt selling these as is I would think about quickshading them or washing them as to eye colours and writing my hand isnt that steady yet so I have avoided doing them for the time being but thanks for the advice I know I need to get some more pratice on those points mentioned

[Vash]

I have been using the army painter quickshade on a few of my models but not 100% if I like that or not, I have been using nuln oil on my tanks and yea it improves it a lot, if I wasnt selling these as is I would think about quickshading them or washing them as to eye colours and writing my hand isnt that steady yet so I have avoided doing them for the time being but thanks for the advice I know I need to get some more pratice on those points mentioned

Army painter shades are ok... but I would advice not to use it. GWs washes are today pretty much the same in end result. Army painter quick shade is messy, takes a long time to dry, and requires open spaces (as the quickshade it self smells and is slightly toxic). 

Also, once your done with the quick shade, you need to add a layer of matt varnish to take away the glossiness. Further more, the quick shade adds a thick layer of "paint" thus painting details after is harder. 

 

I am a former quickshade painter and... I was one of those who developed similar products. I know how to use it, and I have to say, it is effective, but practice with washes for a week or less and you will get similar results and in the end better looking models. 

 

Here are two pictures of Grey Knights I painted with GW wash and with Army painter quick shade. The model painted with GW wash took less time to paint, as the drying time is much much faster with a wash over quick shade. 

In these models I basically use the 5 steps above. I think in total it is 6 steps. 

 

 

With GW washes result

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/VashDime/40k/Grey%20Knights/Paladin1.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/VashDime/40k/Grey%20Knights/Paladin9.jpg

 

 

With Army painter quickshade result:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/VashDime/40k/Grey%20Knights/Grandmaster.jpg

[facmanpob]

Aha, Vash, I'd forgotten that you were the owner of the White Knights from the GK sub-forum. Awesome looking army btw! :tu:

 

@mmaarrkk - I would definitely heed Vash's advice. Your painting looks pretty crisp and neat, but deft application of washes will really help to bring out the definition in the models. Oh, and don't get disheartened, I've been painting for almost 2 1/2 years and have come on leaps and bounds since my first useless scrabblings with a brush, but the process is often so gradual that you don't really notice it happening until you compare photos of your new stuff with your old stuff. And finally, you never stop learning and getting better - as I said, I've come on loads since I started, but still have so much more to learn and improve on that its a constant process of challenge and perseverance. :)

 

Keep posting pictures! :tu:

[mmaarrkk]

 

I have been using the army painter quickshade on a few of my models but not 100% if I like that or not, I have been using nuln oil on my tanks and yea it improves it a lot, if I wasnt selling these as is I would think about quickshading them or washing them as to eye colours and writing my hand isnt that steady yet so I have avoided doing them for the time being but thanks for the advice I know I need to get some more pratice on those points mentioned

Army painter shades are ok... but I would advice not to use it. GWs washes are today pretty much the same in end result. Army painter quick shade is messy, takes a long time to dry, and requires open spaces (as the quickshade it self smells and is slightly toxic). 

Also, once your done with the quick shade, you need to add a layer of matt varnish to take away the glossiness. Further more, the quick shade adds a thick layer of "paint" thus painting details after is harder. 

 

I am a former quickshade painter and... I was one of those who developed similar products. I know how to use it, and I have to say, it is effective, but practice with washes for a week or less and you will get similar results and in the end better looking models. 

 

Here are two pictures of Grey Knights I painted with GW wash and with Army painter quick shade. The model painted with GW wash took less time to paint, as the drying time is much much faster with a wash over quick shade. 

In these models I basically use the 5 steps above. I think in total it is 6 steps. 

 

 

With GW washes result

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/VashDime/40k/Grey%20Knights/Paladin1.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/VashDime/40k/Grey%20Knights/Paladin9.jpg

 

 

With Army painter quickshade result:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/VashDime/40k/Grey%20Knights/Grandmaster.jpg

Well Vash, you have convinced me!, just stuck up my armypainter collection on the bay of e, need to use the anti shine spray on the models I have done and will attempt using GW washes on the minis soon, I already have nuln oil and earthshade but will make sure I pick up the other one you mentioned.  Funnily enough I was going to do the same as what you have posted, a before picture, quickshade pic and wash pic to decide what looks the best, but your pics have confirmed what I was thinking, plus I totally agree with the comments you said about quickshade, the time the smell and even the cost, I have over 90pounds of quickshade stuff (3 tins and 2 sprays),dread to think how many washes I could have got with that!.

 

On the bikers I did paint the white quite a strong coat as I was planning on using the quickshade or wash after.  Currently painting up a land raider helios to go with my land raider collection (big and getting bigger!), and will attempt highlighting on that I think, as well as using the washes I have before

[Vash]

Well bare in mind, that I have after the wash (and even on the quickshade miniature) re-applied the same colour again over the washed areas. Though this paint is diluted with a medium/water to make it more transpoerent. GW has one of those specialist paints now.

 

So, On these guys I sprayed white, added primary (white again over areas not fully covered) and secondary gold. Then washed the white with Seraphim serpia, and the gold (and red) with Nuln Oil.

Once it has dried I mix the white with the medium, roughly a 50/50 mix. Then apply thin layers to the large areas not intended to have shades.