Forté Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Just had another look over the Horus Heresy stuff. The white enameling of armour was a tradition pre-Fulgrim and used to denote rank and veteran status. The Palatine Blades however used platinum to set them apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vect Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Wow thank you all for the helpful analysis, and I must agree that some color should be introduced into my legion. As of today I have been painting the first apothecary, however I wasn't brave enough to use white for the helmet, since I usually have a blotchy paint finish. Again thanks you have helped allot! :) I am glad for joining the forum... Let me know what you think!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaplainmikey Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 An excellent shade of purple, very rich and deep, fitting for the glorious 3rd Legion! Good stuff. Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forté Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 Looks good. White is a pain to paint. Most you see now though is actually very light grey with white highlights. Ceramite White is good to use too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vect Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Gratitude ! I find Ceramite White a bit thick, I thin it down allot... For today my first painted Phoenix Guard terminator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Semper Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 The best looking Termies in the entire HH range imo - and you've done a terrific job! As far as white goes, try applying Ulthuan Grey first - it will make a great starting surface to apply a couple of thinned down whites... I personally leave it as Ulthuan Grey and highlight it with white - a satisfying final result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laborious Posted November 13, 2013 Share Posted November 13, 2013 That looks fantastic! As Semper says, the finest terminator sculpts ever made and you have certainly done the model justice! :) For painting white I preferred a warmer cream colour for my EC's over my usual cooler blue-based method that I usually use. But the principle is the same - lots of thin coats of an off-white basecolour (I used a bleached bone equivalent (VGC bonewhite) for my method, but I used to use astronomican grey for doing cooler whites which I think is what ulthaun has replaced, semp?) and then build it up from there adding progressively more white to your mix. The only time you should actually use pure white should be for the extreme highlights. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vect Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Hello brothers! Thank you for all your comments ! After getting a day off from all, I had the chance to finally paint Fulgrim, and oh was that challenging... I started 6am and with lunch and a few phone calls with my wife. I finished 11pm. But all in all I am happy with the final result, I wasn't sure about the colors but in the end I just followed the FW scheme. Here he is: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Man, I wanna paint a primarch... Good job though, and I really think the addition of white in your color palette for those last few minis really made them pop and ease the monotone feel to the figures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vect Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 I don't know if it's such a good thing since painting them are a pain... However Angron was much easier though and looking at Ferrus as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_son_of_Dorn Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 I love the pre heresy traitor legion stuff, its starting to bug me how i prefer the pre traitor legions colors and schemes more than the loyalists :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vect Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Abhor the false emperor and join the ruinous powers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prefect Apollyon Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 The amount of brilliant EC blogs here is making me want to start a HH army. Must. Resist. At least until the Alpha Legion are covered. Brilliant job on the purple. You've achieved a very rich shade by the looks of the pictures. Excellent Pheonix Guard and Fulgrim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathspectersgt7 Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 Great job on the False One I mean Fulgrim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vect Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Thank you guys ! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Semper Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Fantastic Work as usual Vect! To me the head is the really strong point of the mini. An excellent hair and skin tone but the dark shade under the eyes really underlines the evil nature of the otherwise regal looking Primarch! Well done sir! :tu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vile Siren Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Is there any way that you can list the paints you used for painting the skin? It is honestly the best skin tone I have seen painting on the Fulgrim mini so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vect Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Thank you Captain Semper :), the skin tone was pure luck because as I was painting him at some point I was very close to failing... 1. Bugman glow 2. Cadian fleshtone 3. Agrax Earthshade 4. Kislew Flesh 5. 45:45:10 kislew flesh pallid wich flesh and fenris grey (this is what gives the grey hue) 6. keep adding pallid wich flesh to the mix for highlights 7. once happy with the result very very light wash of agrax earthshade, and a blue wash just under the eyes 8. and a final highlight of the first stage mix hope this might be of help I am going to paint my spartan very soon and I was wondering about the color scheme to use. Option 1 http://www.figouz.net/warhammer-40000/img/horus-heresy/Forge-World-Emperors-Children-Spartan-Assault-Tank.jpg Option 2 ( I realize this is not a spartan, but i love this scheme) http://www.deviantart.com/art/Emperor-s-Children-Land-Raider-Proteus-355522413 Option 3 A mix between the two, I want to hear what you guys think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 Neither of those links seems to work, mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vile Siren Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Thank you Captain Semper , the skin tone was pure luck because as I was painting him at some point I was very close to failing... 1. Bugman glow 2. Cadian fleshtone 3. Agrax Earthshade 4. Kislew Flesh 5. 45:45:10 kislew flesh pallid wich flesh and fenris grey (this is what gives the grey hue) 6. keep adding pallid wich flesh to the mix for highlights 7. once happy with the result very very light wash of agrax earthshade, and a blue wash just under the eyes 8. and a final highlight of the first stage mix hope this might be of help Sweet! Thanks, I will have to give it a try some time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geektom Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 The best looking Termies in the entire HH range imo - and you've done a terrific job! As far as white goes, try applying Ulthuan Grey first - it will make a great starting surface to apply a couple of thinned down whites... I personally leave it as Ulthuan Grey and highlight it with white - a satisfying final result. I do the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vect Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Hobby progress: I have painted another 2 Phoenix guard terminators but I am waiting to post the pics when the full squad is ready, personally I am not a big fan of WIP. Airbrushing: I have always admired airbrushing however I have never lived in one location until now, and therefor I have never had the chance to fully engage in such an endeavor. However since some time now I have been itching to make the plunge and start off. You can destroy my soul for saying this, I have been using the citadel spray gun, I know... :(. Since I am a fully engaged hobbyist, and I have been painting for ten years now, I would like the to use the good products not some Chinese knock-off. All advice is greatly appreciated. (Keep in mind I currently live in Poland so shipping from UK und Deutschland only) Airbrush: I am a fan of Ichiban painting on YouTube, and he recommends as a start the Badger Patriot 105 which solely based on the video seems like a great airbrush. I need a brush that would be precise and able to do some terrain so I think the 0.5 mm seems like the best fit. Compressor: At first I thought Iwata was good but then I read somewhere that they are made by Sparmax is this true ? Sparmax are very good but cost a fraction of the price. (Low DB main priority, and stable airflow) so I thought the TC 620 would be good but maybe something smaller ? Accessories: what it needed, how is it called e.g. The cup in which you empty (clean with some fluid) your airbrush. Please comment and let me know also if you know any reputable German of English distributors please let me know Thank you in advance ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forté Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Wish I could help but I too am an airbrush virgin and wish I could pop my cherry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ap0k Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 When I bought mine a few months ago, I picked it up from http://www.everythingairbrush.com/ Essentially when it comes to airbrushing you have two primary concerns that will decide your purchase - Single or Dual action, and Gravity or Suction fed. The GW spraygun is your typical single action setup. Press button -> Air and Paint comes out. No real control over how much paint or the paint:air ratio. Just straight full blast paint to the face. Dual action is what most good airbrushes run. You have a button on a lever. Pulling the lever back determines your air flow. Pull it all the way back for max air flow, pull it back a little bit to lessen the concentration. Pushing the button down then opens the valve to allow your paint to be sucked out. As far as I'm aware, you can't control exactly how much paint you get, but that's why you have airflow control, since you can control your paint spread as a by product of allowing more or less air out. On Gravity/Suction fed options, that's really going to depend what you will use it for. Gravity fed is very good for small or one-time projects, whilst I personally would prefer suction fed tor mass airbrushing. The suction feed pots tend to hold a lot more paint than the garvity fed cups, and are much less restrictive of angles when you're in the process of actually spraying (an open topped gravity fed cup will restrict the angle at which you can spray a standing model because obviously if you angle it too steeply, the paint will fall out of the top). Some gravity fed airbrushes come with side-feed cups, which allow you to twist the cup so that the open end is always facing upwards, which mitigates the issue I outlined above. It's really personal preference on gravity/suction. I'd use suction for army-wide basecoating because you're not going to be screwing around topping up your paint every 5 minutes. I'd use gravity for one-off projects that weren't going to require a ton of paint to get the effect I wanted (single models, power weapon effects, that kind of thing). On the compressor front - I bought one with an extra tank. The reason for this was that if you have a single tank compressor, then it will have to run *all the time* while spraying to maintain pressure. Running all the time means a risk of pressure stuttering due to the compressor having to constantly top itself up to maintain pressure, but more importantly, it means the compressor heats up faster. When it heats up, it pushes out warm air, and when it pushes out warm air, the paint will dry quicker on the needle tip, resulting in having to be cleaned more frequently to prevent clogs and maintain paint flow. The way the extra tank works is that the compressor runs until it reaches your desired psi limit, then it stops until the psi drops below a certain threshhold, at which point it kicks in again and tops up the tank. Doesn't heat up as quickly, so you spend less time performing maintenance while working. Mine is pretty small (http://www.everythingairbrush.com/acatalog/info_AB_AS_186.html), so it still heats up after about 45mins of constant use, but that's enough time to get what I want done most of the time. A physically larger compressor will take longer to heat up, but then you're getting into spending more and more money, so it depends on your budget. If I had no money restraints and enough room to put one, I'd have gotten something a lot bigger, simply because the compressor is part of the kit you're least likely to replace (you might buy additional airbrushes for specific things in the future, for example, but you'll be able to use the same compressor regardless). I clean my airbrush with water which does the job fine for acrylic paints. I don't run metallics through it, so if I did I might get some dedicated cleaning agent. Similarly I don't run anything through it that requires alchohol based thinning, which again I would pick up dedicated cleaning agent for. About the only extra kit you really need is something to oil the parts with once you're finished cleaning. It helps prevent paint sticking to surfaces inside the brush that you don't want it stuck to, and corrosion obviously is a concern. Generally I'll do a quick clean of the brush between different coats of paint (water only), and at the end of a session I'll do a full clean by dismantling, cleaning, and oiling everything up so that it's in good condition for the next time it's used. That's really about all I gleaned from my research before purchasing my own. There are numerous extras and gubbins you can pick up, but I figure I'll wait until I seem to need them before getting them. I think the only thing I'd purchase now, that I didn't buy at the time, would be some cleaning pipes, since it would be useful to have something that I could run through the needle housing for a more thorough clean. Oh, and get some latex gloves if you plan on holding the models in your hand while you spray. A box is pretty cheap, and will lost quite a while, and it saves getting paint all over your hands :p Disclaimer: I am by no means an expert, or particularly experienced with airbrushes. I've gotten quite a lot of use out of mine since I picked it up a few months ago, and had previous experience with cheap hardware quality single action airbrushes that I used before picking up a dedicated miniatures tool, but I'm sure there are others out there who are much much more experienced than I, so please feel free to contradict me on any points I'm incorrect on. I'm still very interested in learning more about the tools myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vect Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Incredible! Thank you allot! This gave me an idea, in the end would it not be better to have both a gravity fed (detail) and suction (base coat) airbrush ? Which paints require thinner? How does that work ? I generally use GW paints for the spray gun I mix it with water, would I theoretically mix it with something else? Also what do you think regarding the two companies (badger, Sparmax) specifically the tc 620? Also does anybody know what would be the best badger combination for detail and base coat? Forte what does it mean I wish I could pop my cherry? :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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