Vlka Fenryka - The Volsung

[Creamywynch]

Just a quick one today folks. Got some recent feedback from a couple of people about my plasma guns, saying they looked pretty plain and could do with jazzing up with blue or green for the coils to make them stand out more. After mulling it over for a bit I decided they were right and went ahead with the changes to my existing models. Used a very light blue with a couple of highlights, followed by a wash to shade and tone it all down. Very easy and looks pretty good. I am pleased with how it makes the unit look (I am going to make them into a HH special weapon squad once I have painted 2 more models) as it gives a nice focus to the gun now, instead of being lost among all the metals and bronze on the figures.

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/image_zps49wn6cad.jpeg

 

Having done these changes it got me thinking about my melta guns, which also look very plain and get lost among the crowd. A friend made the suggestion that I should paint a heat glow like it had just been fired, and sent me this pic as a reference. I think it is a great idea and one I would like to do but I really have no idea how to paint it. Do any of you have any tips or tricks you can sher to achieve this effect, or any links to blogs\tutorials that have covered it? Thanks in advance for your help :)

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/image_zpsvtxogdq4.jpeg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/image_zpsctap1k9l.jpeg

Edited September 15, 2016 by Creamywynch

[KiltedMarine]

I don't have a pic for reference, but I've done something similar on Fire Dragon models.  My method requires a number of layers, applied with a wet blend if possible.

 

- start with a deep red, like Khorne or maybe Wazdakka.  Paint the whole area that will "glow" with the heat.

- layer up from there, to Evil Sunz and then up to Fire Dragon Bright at the "hottest" parts of the model.  Using multiple thinned-down layers (when in doubt, for this thinner is better) will get you the best results.  Test it out on something to practice first.

[PeteySödes]

I've done that glow effect on swords before and the blend of the heat is important but to really sell it, its the scale you need to get right. I did it with super careful small areas of grey with some SUPER light drybrushing of a lighter grey.  Its damn hard though since you're painting over some hard work and if you botch it....whelp...

 

Also painting areas like the edges of the vents as cooler than the main body can help too. Definitely practice on some sprue or something first.

[Creamywynch]

@KiltedMarine. Thanks for the advice. I have given it a go but I did a wet/dry brush combo to see how it would come out (and for speed as well ;) ). Pleased to say it does not look too bad. Went for a dark red up to a medium yellow, followed by a yellow glaze to tie it together.

 

@FearPeterSodes. Thanks for the tips. I did not try the grey spotting in the end. Too afraid I would cock it up, but I do think it would add a nice touch. I will try on a price of sprue next time and see how it looks (got 2 more to paint up)

 

Here is my attempts at it

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpso4uyzmky.jpg

[Konnavaer]

That is some great work brother, looks really good and not over done, top stuff

[KiltedMarine]

I like it!  Really sells the heat.  I especially like the blackening behind the heat glow effect, and the gradation between shades is very well done.  Puts the "melt" in "melta!"

[Dantay VI]

Looks really good, maybe a slightly brighter yellow on the very edges? Looks like it I cooling down to me.

[Creamywynch]

Thanks Dantay :). Yes it dies look like they are cooling. It is because I glazed it all with a yellow glaze at the end which took the edge off the brighter yellow. I do quite like the look of it cooling though so I will leave it for now. Thanks for the pointer though :)

[Creamywynch]

Hey folks.

 

Been working on a new contemptor dreadnought this week after a brief hiatus from all hobby related activities while I moved house (urgh!) . I am converting a betrayal at calth dread as I am not a fan of the stock pose. It is way too static in my opinion, and seems to lack a little something that the forge world ones have.

 

To start I sawed the torso away from the crotch piece and then set to work hacking off the left hand hip joint on the leg, and removing both legs from the crotch. I also decided to saw off the head so I could reposition it at an angle to get even more movement from the kit.

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0987_zpskxblbaxm.jpg

 

I then inserted plasticard rods into the joints so I could start to play with the positioning of each part.

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0992_zpsdxxchgjp.jpg

 

Once I had a rough idea if what I wanted I glued the first (whole) leg onto the crotch and down onto the base. This gave me a firm structure to start finalising the rest of the body positions. After playing around with different poses and finding one I was happy with I fixed the torso as well.

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0993_zps9lulqi8b.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0994_zpsjgpyp20x.jpg

 

I am pretty keen on magnetising everything nowadays for maximum flexibility, and this conversion is no different. Both arms have been magnetised (which was a little bit of a pain to do) and so far the assault cannon has also been done. I plan to run this as a dakka dread at the mo so I am waiting on another cannon for the other arm (which I can hopefully pillage from one of my mates).

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0995_zpsqqwazrou.jpg

 

Last stage before beddy byes was to whip out the blue tac and do a bit of trial positioning to see how he was coming together. Pretty pleasd so far I have to say. Tomorrow I will start on the chopped up leg to get that all fixed and sculpted and add the mandatory Space Wolves bling to him.

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0996_zps40fgzpcl.jpg

 

Should be able to do more work on him tomorrow and get another update on here :)

[KiltedMarine]

That, sir, is dead sexy.

[Creamywynch]

Thanks @KiltedMarine :)

 

Got an update for you folks. Finshed the dread yesterday after a fair bit of bling being added. Pimpin my ride I like to think :)

The re-pose of the leg proved to be the trickiest part the trial position I had in the last post did not work out when I came to glue it all together and pose the leg, so I had to go for a much more subtle bend to the leg. Still think it works though with the two kheres assaukt cannons on each arm. The sculpting of the hacked out joint was a bit challenging, and I am not 100% happy with the finish but hopefully the paint will hide most of the sins.

 

Really enjoyed adding all the bling to make him part of the Vlka Fenryka. Def feels like a space wolf now, amd the shields and pelts just set him off nicely. Looking forward to painting him up now

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0646_zpspa5k0f1l.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0647_zps5bdgiwik.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0648_zpsw6eucmjf.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0649_zpsfsuydxmz.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0650_zpsjnvqoeif.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0651_zpsl2x1bok7.jpg

 

While I was working on him I also decided to make some apothecaries for the Volsung. They are kit bashed from the B@C set, blood angel death company legs, apothecary torso and pad, and some anvil industry gubbins + a raid from my bits box for other bits and bobs. The legs I chose for the flowing parchments, which I will paint as aprons, with the signature blood splatter. A small pelt was sculpted where some blood angel iconography was hanging from the bottom of one apron. I like the slight wolfy (and impractical, terrible to wash all that blood off :D ) feel it gives to the legs. I might add a few more pelts here and there but for now they are done.

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0652_zpstotxj1sk.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0653_zpslwrafacz.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0654_zpsefk4nbbs.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0655_zps7ifhqrnt.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0656_zpsjux0o8fe.jpg

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_0657_zps0nqdg7df.jpg

[KiltedMarine]

Really dig the greenstuff work on the left leg.  Nicely done!

 

The spikes on the shoulders are a small thing, but I like the feeling they evoke.  Very gritty.  Much Crusade. 

 

Also, I really like the B@C sculpts- I'm not a huge fan of that helmet mark, but the backpacks hit all my nostalgia buttons hard.  Looking forward to seeing the Apothecaries painted up!

Edited October 13, 2016 by KiltedMarine

[Creamywynch]

@KiltedMarine. Thanks! Pleased you like it. The GS work looks a bit dodgy to me but I am probably being slightly overcritical tbh. Own harshest critic and all that :D. The spikes were quite fiddly to do but the whole area looked so plain once I had added all the pelts and shields so I had to add something and they were suitably aggressive for a SW contemptor :) . Chopped them off a marauder horseman mace.

 

The B@C kits have been a godsend tbh. I would never have started a heresy force if it was not for that box set, and the sculpts (bar the dodgy pose to the dread) are great. Will be painting them alongside the Contemptor so hopefully by the end of the month they will be done.

[Creamywynch]

Guys. Just had a priming disaster and I dont know what has caused it. Jsut sprayed up my dread with army painter primer and it has gone all crinkly and weird. Does anyone have any idea what caused this and if it can be fixed, or do I have to strip and repaint? Just fyi the humidity that day was low, weather clement and rattle can fairly new (and used before with no detriment).

 

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg600/creamywynch/IMG_1042_zpsaxoexozz.jpg

[Jarl Kjaran Coldheart]

I hate to say, but I think stripping and re-doing it may be the best route.

[Vykryl]

Had that happen with a can each of Army Painter grey and black. Haven't bothered with the brand after the first 2 cans. Pretty much strip it and start ovet :(

[Creamywynch]

Bugger. Was hoping there was a way to get around it. How annoying!

 

Thanks for the input guys

[Jarl Kjaran Coldheart]

i've done it myself quite often with Florida's humidity.

I stopped priming outdoors because of it.

 

its a pain in the butt

[KiltedMarine]

My first thought is temperature; I've had that happen in really warm weather and really cold weather.

 

Serious bummer. Hope it strips OK!

[Creamywynch]

I left the can outside overnight so I think it was too cold, even though the day was ok. Lesson learned bit still darn annoying. It is in strip now so hopefully the primer will come off.

[Vykryl]

After that happened to me I left the can in the house to stay warm, it didn't help. Temp around my home is within 15 degrees Fahrenheit of 60 year round. Usually its between 60-65. Had thought it was the old grey can, but the new black did same even when stored in the warmer house :( Not sure what else unless its the humidity from leving next toba river a few miles from the Pacific.

[Creamywynch]

I think I will chuck it just to be on the safe side. Used it before with no issues but don't want that happening again. I have just moved to an area next to an old river bed, so that could have played a part, although I checked the humidity before I sprayed

[RikuEru]

I think I will chuck it just to be on the safe side. Used it before with no issues but don't want that happening again. I have just moved to an area next to an old river bed, so that could have played a part, although I checked the humidity before I sprayed

Yea it is a strange mixture of humidity, temperature of the can and the air, wind etc.

I once had this happen due to stupidity: Changing from an empty bottle to a new one - and then not shaking the new can before use.

Causes the same grizzled, grainy effect.

[KiltedMarine]

Last time I had it happen that badly I was living in Seattle and tried to prime models outside, after dark, in November.

 

Cold *and* humid.  It was a disaster.  Had to strip the whole project and try again.  Worse, it was "homework" for my job as a redshirt- a unit for a GW store army.

[MosesGunn]

Fantastic thread mate, and I appreciate you taking the time to describe your process.

 

On the subject of the Army Painter Primer mishap. While I used it for a while as the mixture doesn't chip as easily on metal , I've found the brand to very temperamental about temperature and humidity in comparison to your bog standard hardware store primer. Had the grainy application happen to me a couple of times and I swear by Krylon nowadays, but honestly don't remember ever seeing the brand on sale when I lived in the U.K. 

 

Ever since it happened to me, while its a bit wasteful, I'll just prime a plastic spoon before I start on my models to make sure nothing's wrong with the can or weather conditions.